Hm, that definitely has to be mentioned on Beywiki. If you could do it, that would be great.
Beyblade Random Thoughts
I somehow managed to remake Toby's Aries 145WD with all Hasbro parts and nearly-exact colors....
Another Imgurian...
Anywho, what was the reason behind the heavier Dragooon molds?
Anywho, what was the reason behind the heavier Dragooon molds?
(Mar. 01, 2014 9:50 PM)DrPepsidew Wrote: Another Imgurian...Only because photobucket decided that their users no longer needed direct linking to images and that people would much rather see a shrunken version of the image with their wonderful site around it instead, because you know, practical image linking isn't something people look for in an image host.
Anywho, what was the reason behind the heavier Dragooon molds?
There's no information on that, and it was a strange decision so it'll be hard to find any logic in it anyway.
![[Image: UwZsp7A.png]](https://i.imgur.com/UwZsp7A.png)
I'm a bit miffed, Hasbro, your Wal-Mart re-released Dark Libra has awful quality facebolt print, it's coming off!
Libra 100D Remake is not quite ruined yet though!
Libra 100D Remake is not quite ruined yet though!
Hey, just to let you guys know;
I was reading back the last few pages about how fragile CH120 usually is, and I'd like to point out that, from my personal experience, most Hasbro CH120 tracks are much slower to break (not surprising, given the extra reinforcement their parts usually have), especially the yellow mold from the Gravity demolition two-pack. That thing is extremely durable. As far as I know, mine hasn't even begun to crack yet (and I've been using it constantly for about a year).
Not all CH120 Tracks are like the Takara Dark Cancer ones that fall apart after a week. The Yellow Hasbro mold is unique in how excessively durable it is, and it's definitely the best choice if you want one, hands down (especially as it goes very well with Takara's yellow Balro Stone Face, LOL). The thing just takes everything. I've put it up in Attack vs. Attack matches, and it's just shrugged everything off. Same with my brother's. He's been using his for 2 years now, and it took over-screwing, incorrect assembly (attached at a weird angle), 2 years of use against heavyweight (oftentimes aggressive) combinations, and lastly like a dozen head-on collisions with a Balro Attack type in a tournament to finally make a small crack on its inside upper edge.
So yah. I'd call the Hasbro CH120 from the Gravity Demolition pack one of the most durable Tracks out there.
I was reading back the last few pages about how fragile CH120 usually is, and I'd like to point out that, from my personal experience, most Hasbro CH120 tracks are much slower to break (not surprising, given the extra reinforcement their parts usually have), especially the yellow mold from the Gravity demolition two-pack. That thing is extremely durable. As far as I know, mine hasn't even begun to crack yet (and I've been using it constantly for about a year).
Not all CH120 Tracks are like the Takara Dark Cancer ones that fall apart after a week. The Yellow Hasbro mold is unique in how excessively durable it is, and it's definitely the best choice if you want one, hands down (especially as it goes very well with Takara's yellow Balro Stone Face, LOL). The thing just takes everything. I've put it up in Attack vs. Attack matches, and it's just shrugged everything off. Same with my brother's. He's been using his for 2 years now, and it took over-screwing, incorrect assembly (attached at a weird angle), 2 years of use against heavyweight (oftentimes aggressive) combinations, and lastly like a dozen head-on collisions with a Balro Attack type in a tournament to finally make a small crack on its inside upper edge.
So yah. I'd call the Hasbro CH120 from the Gravity Demolition pack one of the most durable Tracks out there.
![[Image: 68vfxj.jpg]](https://oi57.tinypic.com/68vfxj.jpg)
Hasbro's original CH120 is no different and no more or less fragile than Takara's.
CH120 breaks aren't from impact during matches, but from facebolt insertion, anyway. It's not the first time I've heard good things about their yellow one, but given past rumors about CH120's, I've generally been very wary of any claim there is a difference. I'd want to see pictures, tbh.
I mean it's mostly irrelevant to me because Hasbro stuff is pretty much not available to me at reasonable prices these days - between intl. shipping and people bumping up prices, that set would set me back over 30 bucks, and I only have use for its CH120.
CH120 breaks aren't from impact during matches, but from facebolt insertion, anyway. It's not the first time I've heard good things about their yellow one, but given past rumors about CH120's, I've generally been very wary of any claim there is a difference. I'd want to see pictures, tbh.
I mean it's mostly irrelevant to me because Hasbro stuff is pretty much not available to me at reasonable prices these days - between intl. shipping and people bumping up prices, that set would set me back over 30 bucks, and I only have use for its CH120.
Impact can have a huge effect, though.
I've never played around with the original release from Dark Cancer, so I can't really say anything about that.
But seriously, trust me, this thing has been very roughly handled plenty of times. It's legitimately harder to break. I've owned Takara ones before, and I've handled them just the way I've handled this one, and they all cracked up and down every side within a couple weeks (or a couple months if I got really lucky).
I've never played around with the original release from Dark Cancer, so I can't really say anything about that.
But seriously, trust me, this thing has been very roughly handled plenty of times. It's legitimately harder to break. I've owned Takara ones before, and I've handled them just the way I've handled this one, and they all cracked up and down every side within a couple weeks (or a couple months if I got really lucky).
Eh, its the facebolts that will put the initial crack in them, from there it's only a matter of time anyway.
If it is any better built it'd be visible - the flaw is a simple matter of the walls of the threading hole being too thin, after all.
If it is any better built it'd be visible - the flaw is a simple matter of the walls of the threading hole being too thin, after all.
Really? But my TT CH120 has been used for a few times and the core hasn't even break down a bit...
My TT Cancer's CH120 is doing just fine, despite a ton of use... However, I have to say the yellow one from Hasbro seems to be much better. Idk why, but the original seems... ...flimsy, idk. The original is also much more loose and tends to switch heights mid-battle from 145 to 120. Not sure if I just got a bad-ish one which isn't representative of normal Dark Cancer CH120s, but it is how it is.
Both of my CH120s are Hasbro, and both of their cores are cracked in the same place. One's the pink-maroon one from the Dark Gasher starter, and the other's the yellow one from that Gravity Demolition two pack.
Nobody's CH120 is safe.
Nobody's CH120 is safe.
![[Image: vwa_copy3_by_elcesplooshe_daejy2u-fullvi...Za8ANFHK5M]](https://images-wixmp-ed30a86b8c4ca887773594c2.wixmp.com/f/0779b042-834a-4ac6-9292-fab88a9af9cb/daejy2u-70e51d94-acbe-4593-ad69-5434d834b672.jpg/v1/fill/w_1024,h_317,q_75,strp/vwa_copy3_by_elcesplooshe_daejy2u-fullview.jpg?token=eyJ0eXAiOiJKV1QiLCJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJzdWIiOiJ1cm46YXBwOjdlMGQxODg5ODIyNjQzNzNhNWYwZDQxNWVhMGQyNmUwIiwiaXNzIjoidXJuOmFwcDo3ZTBkMTg4OTgyMjY0MzczYTVmMGQ0MTVlYTBkMjZlMCIsIm9iaiI6W1t7ImhlaWdodCI6Ijw9MzE3IiwicGF0aCI6IlwvZlwvMDc3OWIwNDItODM0YS00YWM2LTkyOTItZmFiODhhOWFmOWNiXC9kYWVqeTJ1LTcwZTUxZDk0LWFjYmUtNDU5My1hZDY5LTU0MzRkODM0YjY3Mi5qcGciLCJ3aWR0aCI6Ijw9MTAyNCJ9XV0sImF1ZCI6WyJ1cm46c2VydmljZTppbWFnZS5vcGVyYXRpb25zIl19.GJIQK2sXAJm5ScpS3pSVJ8KrA6Ru9qtE4Za8ANFHK5M)
All of mine had broken. I actually suspect it has to do with a specific face bolt mold I know Hasbro had about several changes some subtle, some not.
I have two hasbro CH120's as well, the yellow one from the 2-Pack broke in several places, it wasn't put through extreme wear though, just used with an attack type.
My yellow Hasbro CH120 has fitting issues with some metal wheels, not keeping securely in place until I tighten the face in. That's the only defect I've noticed. I don't have any others to compare it to.
Also, I'm trying to find out if any of you have noticed issues with keeping the bottom on your BD145 from the HASBRO Hell Kerbecs starter? I know me and Thunder Dome have.
Also, I'm trying to find out if any of you have noticed issues with keeping the bottom on your BD145 from the HASBRO Hell Kerbecs starter? I know me and Thunder Dome have.
Really guys?
I've gone through like 3 Takara ones, handling them extremely carefully, and my yellow one has been put through more than all of them, and it still hasn't even begun to crack yet. I've screwed Faces into it weird multiple times. Same thing with my brother's (save one small crack on the upper edge of the inner section). That's really weird...
I've never had trouble with keeping a Bottom on either of my Takara Kerbecs BD145 Tracks, no (although IIRC I had some trouble with my old Hasbro one).
I've gone through like 3 Takara ones, handling them extremely carefully, and my yellow one has been put through more than all of them, and it still hasn't even begun to crack yet. I've screwed Faces into it weird multiple times. Same thing with my brother's (save one small crack on the upper edge of the inner section). That's really weird...
I've never had trouble with keeping a Bottom on either of my Takara Kerbecs BD145 Tracks, no (although IIRC I had some trouble with my old Hasbro one).
Whoops, I meant the Hasbro one! My bad, haha.
Huh. I have the translucent pink CH120 from Dark Gasher and it hasn't cracked yet. I use it quite a bit, but mainly with Limited combos so not too much weight.
My old Hasbro BD145 hated my RDF for some reason... it didn't stick properly in left-spin. I know there were a few others that didn't work, too... MF maybe? idk, it's a moot point anyways since I use a TT Hot Fire Kerbecs BD145 now, which works fine.
CH120 Stuff: Okay so after flicking through it, I've got a conclusion for you: Sometimes, you get lucky and your CH120 doesn't break easily. Not because of the color, just because of luck. Takara, Hasbro, SonoKong(??), doesn't matter - just dumb luck.
As for tightness differences in terms of keeping height, that also seems to vary at random, presumably when parts are very slightly wider/narrower, increasing friction, though it could also just be small cracks in the threading that you don't normally notice making them tighter. This is actually something which I think they could improve the design of with a slight mold change, but it would be visible on pictures of the components - so anyone claiming that would need to provide pictures before we take them seriously, because it could well just be minor cracks or variations.
As I said though, I am pretty certain the initial cracking at least is all down to facebolts - again some facebolts are tighter than others and Annoying Fork, I'm not sure but I do have one Hasbro face from my scythe kronos that is only like 0.9g vs the usual 1.05-1.17, and the molding is kinda dodgy, but there is a structure on it that is not normally there, a rectangular protrusion on one side of the threading, and the face does seem harder to screw in as a result. Is that what you are talking about? Aside from that I've not noticed any major facebolt differences with, say, my Spark FX Lynx face and any other that I own - there's the usual slight variation in weight from part to part (which reminds me - we really should not be listing faces in general as anything other than a standard average maybe with a range on individual articles, as any weight difference is random variation, not what beyblade it came from, for the most part. Clear/Opaque/4D facebolts, all span the same range it seems, stickers make more difference than anything haha. 1.1g is around what I'd call average but I can't do a tonne of weights to back that up as my stickered facebolts all have a thin layer of nail polish on them to prevent wear, which adds a small amount of weight - completely irrelevant to the overall weight of a beyblade but for a 1.1g part, it is probably significant), and the vast majority of my non clear faces have stickers.
As for Hasbro BD145's, could have something to do with the fact they're like 2g lighter than the takara ones, with the Hasbro Kerbecs also being sub-3g vs 3.3-3.5g for TT/SK, but tip/track looseness tends to just happen in general - random variation, basically, and Left Spin will show it better because the parts are designed to lock for right spin, not left IIRC - and it'll inevitable be more noticeable with Circle/Rubber parts as there's more force on that connection.
As for tightness differences in terms of keeping height, that also seems to vary at random, presumably when parts are very slightly wider/narrower, increasing friction, though it could also just be small cracks in the threading that you don't normally notice making them tighter. This is actually something which I think they could improve the design of with a slight mold change, but it would be visible on pictures of the components - so anyone claiming that would need to provide pictures before we take them seriously, because it could well just be minor cracks or variations.
As I said though, I am pretty certain the initial cracking at least is all down to facebolts - again some facebolts are tighter than others and Annoying Fork, I'm not sure but I do have one Hasbro face from my scythe kronos that is only like 0.9g vs the usual 1.05-1.17, and the molding is kinda dodgy, but there is a structure on it that is not normally there, a rectangular protrusion on one side of the threading, and the face does seem harder to screw in as a result. Is that what you are talking about? Aside from that I've not noticed any major facebolt differences with, say, my Spark FX Lynx face and any other that I own - there's the usual slight variation in weight from part to part (which reminds me - we really should not be listing faces in general as anything other than a standard average maybe with a range on individual articles, as any weight difference is random variation, not what beyblade it came from, for the most part. Clear/Opaque/4D facebolts, all span the same range it seems, stickers make more difference than anything haha. 1.1g is around what I'd call average but I can't do a tonne of weights to back that up as my stickered facebolts all have a thin layer of nail polish on them to prevent wear, which adds a small amount of weight - completely irrelevant to the overall weight of a beyblade but for a 1.1g part, it is probably significant), and the vast majority of my non clear faces have stickers.
As for Hasbro BD145's, could have something to do with the fact they're like 2g lighter than the takara ones, with the Hasbro Kerbecs also being sub-3g vs 3.3-3.5g for TT/SK, but tip/track looseness tends to just happen in general - random variation, basically, and Left Spin will show it better because the parts are designed to lock for right spin, not left IIRC - and it'll inevitable be more noticeable with Circle/Rubber parts as there's more force on that connection.
As obsessed as I am with collecting limited edition beyblades, they start to lose their hype once you're forced to choose between staring at them on a shelf and chipping valuable collectors' items.
![[Image: jFAMV2B.png]](https://i.imgur.com/jFAMV2B.png)
AkirasDaddy is back! (Sort of) He posted a video tomorrow (Japan is 12 hours ahead of us, correct me if im wrong.) of him snowboarding, is he still in to beyblades though?
Okay, I was just kinda comparing parts that I had multiple of to others of the same part looking for possible mold differentials out of curiosity, and yeah I definitely found one in GCF.
It's not on the ring/gear, but instead where the actual bottom is. I'm not sure what to call the area so I will just show you a picture. The red outline shows where the plastic is and you can see where the plastic is not. The grey one is the Hasbro one from the Thief Phoenix starter and the green one is from the Ultimate Synchrome DX set: Attack & Balance.
The Hasbro one has more of the plastic. This isn't the first time Hasbro has done something like this. I'm guessing they do it to make it a little more compact and less prone to breakage. I'm not sure about performance difference since they both perform relatively the same.
So yeah, quite the difference. I can't really get any clearer pictures at the moment. I'll try to get some for Beywiki if needed sometime.
It's not on the ring/gear, but instead where the actual bottom is. I'm not sure what to call the area so I will just show you a picture. The red outline shows where the plastic is and you can see where the plastic is not. The grey one is the Hasbro one from the Thief Phoenix starter and the green one is from the Ultimate Synchrome DX set: Attack & Balance.
Spoiler (Click to View)
The Hasbro one has more of the plastic. This isn't the first time Hasbro has done something like this. I'm guessing they do it to make it a little more compact and less prone to breakage. I'm not sure about performance difference since they both perform relatively the same.
So yeah, quite the difference. I can't really get any clearer pictures at the moment. I'll try to get some for Beywiki if needed sometime.
Hasbro does that with every Bottom they produce, so it definitely isn't unusual.
IIRC, Hasbro does this in a lot of there tips. I had a WB once and got severely confused when the molding was different, haha.