I'm still determining whether a few things are or aren't and don't have it all written out correctly enough that I am comfortable posting it, sorry. Anyone who does answer that question right now would almost certainly miss a few. I'll try to get a rough version with the maybes noted separately written out for you in the next couple of days as I have to do it soon anyway.

You have to use Dranzer S's casings and burning kerberous' base. Be careful when removing it - push it out from the bottom, don't pull, or you risk separating the rubber of the tip from the plastic it surrounds.

Thanks! you don't have to rush it! but I will be glad if you tell me when you have like you offer!

you mean... there is a plastic part and a rubber part (being this last one the actual tip) in wolborg 2's tip? Okay, I will try that this weekend!

Thanks again!

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I hate Argentinian customs!

Both parts are visible on the tip itself - the plastic part goes into the casings and prevents the entire shaft falling out of the casings. There's a cylindrical part extending from the bottom of that which the rubber covers (the rubber tip is molded separately and then put on with some glue to keep it in place - same with grip base actually) but IIRC for some reason it's not legal to just glue them back together neatly (I'd argue against this personally because they're glued in the first place and unless you use an acetone-based glue (as that 'melts' ABS plastic) there's pretty much no way glue can change the performance, but I'm busy enough topswise as it is). The plastic part is flat-bottomed, in fact it's a whole lot like a plastic driger f tip IIRC.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Okay, Thanks Th!nk! I will try it! the only thing I need to buy is Dranzer S for the Casing! (I will use Wolborg 2's base though I know is better with Burning Kerberous but I'm not in a competitive place and I will like to use all the parts I'm buying if possible)

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I hate Argentinian customs!

Sadly, BK's base is needed to fix it in place - it's the combination of the height of the casings and the base itself that do it. It's kinda hard to get it doing the right thing reliably, also, but it does move real fast if you do.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Rock Bison's AR is recoily and dumb in both directions, Whale Crusher is recoily and dumb in left and decent in right, mostly for upper where the width helps it get under stuff, but it has some smash too, which is good because upper attack doesn't actually work that well as it turns out - most compacts wall them, let alone anything actually focussed on defense that doesn't also have a recoily base (based on some tests I posted a while back/general experience). However it really has to be used on a low base to work well.

That's on the price reference list on beywiki IIRC, used they can go pretty cheap though. I'd suggest getting a Driger G instead if you're looking for a competitive attack AR (or Driger V2 if you can afford it).

Seeing as you're coming from MFB, I'll give you a tip (or an essay, oops!):
Recoil is really, really bad in plastics. This is the generation of spikes and stuff, where contact points were actual points, not flat faces - flat faces got laughed at (see: Draciel AR's). There are some AR's that have kinda flat faces that can work because those faces are still decently angled or have spike attack (check the smash attack article) but those all require very expensive bases to not fly backwards out of the ring without losing all of the power that makes using them worthwhile. Attack is not a cheap type because the two tips that are fast and able to handle recoil well are also expensive and hard to find. It kinda sucks but on the other hand, Driger G's AR on Dragoon V2's base works pretty nicely anyway - it's a pretty defensive generation (like MFB) so generally with attack you just aim not to face defense rather than to beat it (like current MFB), especially as circle survivor defense combos are cheap to build (part of why using pure upper attack is basically pointless).
Also, part availability is a huge factor in tournaments, people will often place without a single completely top-tier combination (though basically all plastics scenes have one person with a good collection) or at least, with the lower end of a top tier that has been expanded for exactly that reason. So, don't stress too much about not having the best of the best, even though I don't talk about much else right now because I'm a very, very lucky person and I don't really feel like talking about 'okay' parts when there are so many good parts!

It's probably a bit of a shock (I wouldn't know, but I imagine so), but then most plastics tournaments are more about the novelty for new bladers and nostalgia for older bladers than high-stakes competition - it's a much more pleasant, enjoyable atmosphere IMO.

I appreciate the answer, I just really, really like Whale Crusher XD

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Veteran, just getting back into the sway of things

Sadly, BK's base is needed to fix it in place - it's the combination of the height of the casings and the base itself that do it. It's kinda hard to get it doing the right thing reliably, also, but it does move real fast if you do.

well, does a shame, because I will have more parts practically useless and I need BK's base also for the Ariel 2's tip Smash Attack combo

I will see what I can do then

Thanks!

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I hate Argentinian customs!

Can someone tell me the stuff I should concentrate on getting next?

Right now I have:
Wolborg 2
Wolborg 4
Dragoon V2
Master Dragoon
Gaia Dragoon
Gaia Dragoon V
Dranzer S
Metal Dranzer
Draciel S
Master Draciel
Driger S
Driger F
Guardian Driger
Metal Driger(With Dragoon G EG)
Seaborg
Seaborg 2
Voltaic Ape
Burning Kerberous
Flash Leopard
Griffolyon
Wide Defense

Also, a few weeks ago one of the springs in my FACB popped out, but my brother put it in exactly how it was before. It's the exact same thing. Is the base still legal?

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Like B-Daman! Go here!

DrPepsidew: I'm quite fond of it since I discovered it works well in right spin, tbh

@Izkhoort: I generally just assemble my spare parts into random combos to play around with, perhaps do that? If you get Burning Kerberous then you can use its SG (with an shielded ball bearing in place of the metal one) in Wolborg 2's Base anyway, though, which is a really good zombie setup perhaps?

ShinobuXD: Yes that's still legal. Plastics gen was always kinda loose with legality in general, especially because takara used generic, widely available parts for the gimmicks of bases such as metal balls and bearings, but that's not even remotely close. Remember this is a generation where you can unscrew metal ball base and have to use a screwdriver to put some tops together. Part of why I like it so much tbh!

As for recommendations you've got most of the staples, good buying! You're missing an HMC so a Metal Driger would be the obvious thing. Driger V2 would be a good choice after that, and you don't have Wide Survivor, so there's that too. Dragoon G would help you try out left spin attack, and Driger G is always a good purchase if you can find one that didn't get touched by the price hike, though you could use Driger V2's AR instead if you get that it's more prone to breakage soooo.

After that, obviously you could try to find a grip base and/or look at more complex attack setups, and a second wide defense would help with testing etc. I personally find a compact using Metal Ball Base makes a great opponent for general testing of things to see if they work well once you're used to how well known stuff works against it, so that could be useful.
Dragoon S or F are good for regular left casings but you can just use neo ones instead so no big hurry - takara dragoon S might let you verify the tests I did a while back and everything I've tried since that shows that upper attack is pretty much useless against even compacts let alone defense, though there's no real need haha.

After most of that you're basically set unless you want to get into the hyper-aggro end of attack which involves an ariel 2 tip and actually using an ariel 2 tip and probably isn't worth bothering with unless you're crazy or really desperate to have some small chance against defense with attack types.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Thanks so much th!nk.

One more thing- how the heck is Wolborg 4's CEW thing supposed to be attached? I know your supposed to put the thing that holds it together under the EG prongs on the base, but my prongs won't go far enough out for me to do it.

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Like B-Daman! Go here!

Push it down harder. I've got one where it takes a lot of effort to get it to go on (and it pops off real easy) which is kinda a pain but yeah.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Finished the Attack AR's list, posting this so you all see it: http://worldbeyblade.org/Thread-Plastic-...pid1128088

Questions and comments on it should go in the thread I posted it in, etc.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

@Izkhoort: I generally just assemble my spare parts into random combos to play around with, perhaps do that? If you get Burning Kerberous then you can use its SG (with an shielded ball bearing in place of the metal one) in Wolborg 2's Base anyway, though, which is a really good zombie setup perhaps?

I do that sometimes but I don't have good bases (only SG Metal Sting and Metal Driger's one) so I'm quite limited right now!

for bearings I want to experiment with Bearing Stinger when I can buy one (short of money unfortunately and my crooked GF of my Bahamdia doesn't make it easier!) but I will try a Pure Survival without thinking if it's a Zombie or Spin Stealer, the aim is a good pure survival beyblade

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I hate Argentinian customs!

Bearing-equipped Zombies tend to be the best beys for same-spin survival in plastic as well (basically all zombies minus Spiral Change Base/Full Auto Clutch Base), as they share ideal weight distributions and aims for low recoil, but they're a lot less reliable in same spin (particularly because they're much easier to KO) and how reliable each different zombie setup is would probably change a little (in favour of using Bearing Stinger's shaft I suspect). I should really do more testing on same-spin stamina (I've done enough to be confident saying the above), but it's kinda boring and the left spin things you see are generally either other zombies or things that will KO you anyway, so aside from the former, there's not too much point from a competitive standpoint to investigate in more detail right now.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Okay, so if I were to want defense, would I go for Driger S' Blade Base or Metal Ball Defenser from one of the Draciels?

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Veteran, just getting back into the sway of things

Has anyone wound up Dragoon G and launched it Right? Its really cool.

Bearing-equipped Zombies tend to be the best beys for same-spin survival in plastic as well (basically all zombies minus Spiral Change Base/Full Auto Clutch Base), as they share ideal weight distributions and aims for low recoil, but they're a lot less reliable in same spin (particularly because they're much easier to KO) and how reliable each different zombie setup is would probably change a little (in favour of using Bearing Stinger's shaft I suspect). I should really do more testing on same-spin stamina (I've done enough to be confident saying the above), but it's kinda boring and the left spin things you see are generally either other zombies or things that will KO you anyway, so aside from the former, there's not too much point from a competitive standpoint to investigate in more detail right now.

Has I always said, I don't have a competitive circle of friends, so I can experiment how many times has I like, also I will do a pure survival for the only sake of making something different than my normal line of combos (attack combos), so it could be something interesting

EDIT: Which ARs are good for right spin stamina? I want to make sure before I choose

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I hate Argentinian customs!

Okay, so if I were to want defense, would I go for Driger S' Blade Base or Metal Ball Defenser from one of the Draciels?

Driger S's, unless by "Metal Ball Defenser' you somehow meant SG Metal Ball which might be a little better defensively.

Has anyone wound up Dragoon G and launched it Right? Its really cool.

Dranzer GT's engine gear basically has that exact effect, ya know.

Has I always said, I don't have a competitive circle of friends, so I can experiment how many times has I like, also I will do a pure survival for the only sake of making something different than my normal line of combos (attack combos), so it could be something interesting

EDIT: Which ARs are good for right spin stamina? I want to make sure before I choose

Same as are good for right spin zombies/circle survivor defense - tiger defenser, wing cross, war lion and maybe roller defense ring but I've only really used that for spin stealing and circle survivor defense rather than pure stamina and its weight distro might not be good enough. This is just off the top of my head, though, but yeah they both want low recoil and external weight distribution so the parts are basically the same, unless you need to use a different weight disk for increased RPM for the stability that provides (semi-flat base stamina combos prefer 10b because that's more valuable to them than the external weight distro etc of wide defense as the loss in stability from using it means they scrape out of stamina too easily).

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

I want to use wolborg 2's base (I am still planning thay) with bearing base's shaft and wide survivor in right spin basically, that's why I asked

thanks for the answer

EDIT: which versions of wing cross comes in silver/grey? (to match with wolborg 2's base)

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I hate Argentinian customs!

I want to use wolborg 2's base (I am still planning thay) with bearing base's shaft and wide survivor in right spin basically, that's why I asked

thanks for the answer

EDIT: which versions of wing cross comes in silver/grey? (to match with wolborg 2's base)

apparently...this is the only one that i know that comes with silver (not really actually..its chrome)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beyblade-Frostic...1c33a019ea

but i dont really know which version is this ULFD..

I think this would go here, since I purchased it already, not in consultation.

I picked up this plastic lot for $7.00 at a garage sale today. Can anyone tell me the specific names, and what each is worth?

I know there a Dragoon and Draciel, I don't know the specific series though. (S, F, ETC.)

Thanks!

Spoiler (Click to View)

[Image: ad5d93faf47a7c0bbc1bb50c3ff0b5d5_zpsecddcf67.jpg]

(I know the HMS is a strata dragoon ms)

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Also, true lion gale force wall and fee-hee-heenay call

From left to right: Dragoon S, Roller Defenser I think(can't see to well), Wyborg, and Draciel F.

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Like B-Daman! Go here!

Plastics purchase consultation goes here anyway - as the title implies with the "all" part.

Price would inevitably depend on condition, which I can't tell from looking at it. Wyborg is only worth like $5 if you can actually sell it, Draciel F isn't worth much either from what I have seen - $10 or thereabouts if everything is there. Roller Defenser you'd be looking at about $10 I guess, and Dragoon S depends heavily on the condition - an AR sticker is missing and the tip condition matters a lot (and you'd have to use a better camera for me to be able to see that).

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Is anyone willing to sell a Scissor Arm Crab Diver for a decent price?

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President of EHS Beyblade Club.

Scissor Arm is Crab Diver's only unique part. Odds of finding one at all are generally pretty slim - I'm missing less than 25 parts from the whole generation and Scissor Arm is one of them, which means I haven't seen one at a good price in a long, long time.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

I want to use wolborg 2's base (I am still planning thay) with bearing base's shaft and wide survivor in right spin basically, that's why I asked

thanks for the answer

EDIT: which versions of wing cross comes in silver/grey? (to match with wolborg 2's base)

apparently...this is the only one that i know that comes with silver (not really actually..its chrome)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beyblade-Frostic...1c33a019ea

but i dont really know which version is this ULFD..

Thanks!

I saw it on Oki's store but I didn't think of buying it because I was a little concerned about it being chrome more than silver, the question I made to myself: Does it suffer of "gold plastic syndrome"? can someone answer that to me? (or tell me of another version of a silver or grey wing cross)

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I hate Argentinian customs!