(Jun. 10, 2011 12:43 AM)Mc Frown Wrote: Sometimes I feel like Plastic hitting your opponent is better than Metal for Attack (like LLD. Clear Wheels can be a lot pointier than Metal Wheels).
So I'm not totally sold on always exposing the contact points as best as possible.
Like, I think I'd rather put Unicorno on Counter than Gemios.
EDIT: And those are the weights for TT.
CW's don't get in the way of counter. Having plastic hitting as well as metal is fine, as long as the plastic isn't blocking the metal. In theory, an obstructive cw could help lower recoil on a lighter wheel, as plastic has better shock absorption than metal, however, in an adequate attack wheel like vulcan, you want metal hitting as you don't want to be absorbing shock, you want the maximum force possible to hit your opponent with.
TBH, the only mw's that are really obstructed by cw's are those I've mentioned in the op, namely vulcan and screw, and both of those definitely hit harder/work better when there's no plastic in the way.
(Sidenote: galaxy, midnight and big bang may be affected too, but galaxy's metal impact areas width generally prevents interference, big band has a pc frame anyway, plus width, and midnight, well, I'm yet to find a wheel that doesn't obstruct it in some way, but it's not that useful anyway. Other "legend" wheels may be similar, but I'm not gonna talk about parts I don't have, other than to say they seem pretty bad from testing anyway).
Also, the cw weight stuff is a rough guide, apparently it may not be true for hasbro's legend series. The ideal thing, at least when finding the heaviest cw, is to weigh your own cw's, which I believe I mentioned in the guide. Fwiw, my hasbro aquario is my heaviest cw, my scales aren't very specific, but it's the only one that tips 4g instead of 3 (hasbro orig. bull, legend bull, tt kerbecs x2, etc)