for metal wheels, just use any type of acrylic or enamel paints. I would suggest using Tamiya's paints since I use them a lot when I build models. One thing to be careful is that you might want to polish the metal wheel after spraying the paint on the metal wheel, so that it is less harder for the paint to scratch off.
Theflightyellz's Quick Guide to Plastic Dyeing
Would this work with the Launcher Grip rubbers?
I saw in an earlier post that you can do this with rubber tips, so shouldn't this work too?
I saw in an earlier post that you can do this with rubber tips, so shouldn't this work too?
I forgot to take it out, it was in for 20 minutes, OOPS!
lol it melted my Heat wheel.
lol it melted my Heat wheel.
Well it does seem to be softer than the plastic used in making a beyblade's track or tip, so I was just curious if the water still needed to be brought to a simmer in order to dye it without melting the grip.
arrrgghh the image isnt working for me!
Man, the last post wasn't long ago at all, and it was pretty far back...
But anyways, would this work on the BB-101 Grip Support if I wanted to dye it black?
But anyways, would this work on the BB-101 Grip Support if I wanted to dye it black?
could someone please reupload the image on picasa or something or make a video PLEASE!! i really want to do this
Any help dyeing the 230 track Grey?
Is it possible to dye meteo l drago clear wheel?
Anybody tried this with a Light Launcher or Winder yet?
do you think it will work the same on metal wheels
i was wondering i bit more detailed instructions? thanks i gotta try this. maybe tommorow...
The dye would not stain the pots, right? I know it's a silly question, but the last time I dyed my clothes with RIT dye, I can't remember if the pot was tinged orange before or after I washed it.
(Jul. 12, 2011 5:47 PM)Deikailo Wrote: The dye would not stain the pots, right? I know it's a silly question, but the last time I dyed my clothes with RIT dye, I can't remember if the pot was tinged orange before or after I washed it.My pot didn't stain. Just wipe it off with water, if that doesn't work, bleach will for sure.
I'll post pictures of my dyed parts later. I dyed a meteo clear wheel, a whole Ray Unicorno, and a whole Earthy Virgo.
Is there a way to dye a clear wheel that is clear yellow colour into a clear colour?
Just like this one: http://kyoganken.web.fc2.com/beymf/imgl/bbl12e.jpg
Coz I want to do the same for the Kerbecs clear wheel.
PLEASE HELP. thanks.
Just like this one: http://kyoganken.web.fc2.com/beymf/imgl/bbl12e.jpg
Coz I want to do the same for the Kerbecs clear wheel.
PLEASE HELP. thanks.
this works on metal peices better if you put on a thin white layer of paint or clear protector gloss
Basically all you're doing there is dying the paint... Why not just paint it that color to begin with? lol
wait, does the original color of the beyblade parts effect the outcome of the dying? because i want to make me a custom bey and i want to make my red cancer/gasher clear wheel blue, i don't want a purple cancer sooooo..... yeah
Necropossssst
So I followed these instructions to a T, using black Rit Dye. I brought the water to a simmer, added the dye, then dipped my parts in using twist ties to keep them from touching the bottom of the pan. I left them in for 9-ish minutes, and when I took them out they were DARKER... until I added them to a bowl of warm water, at which point the dye almost completely washed off. I added the parts back into the dye and left them in for roughly 10 more minutes, and when I took them out and put them in the warm water the same thing happened.
Here's the result:
The R2F in the front-left was NOT dyed; everything else was. Notice how the metal on my Metal Flat was the part that actually retained the most dye.
So, what did I do wrong, exactly? I purchased more black Rit dye to try again, and I want to make sure I do it right this time.
So I followed these instructions to a T, using black Rit Dye. I brought the water to a simmer, added the dye, then dipped my parts in using twist ties to keep them from touching the bottom of the pan. I left them in for 9-ish minutes, and when I took them out they were DARKER... until I added them to a bowl of warm water, at which point the dye almost completely washed off. I added the parts back into the dye and left them in for roughly 10 more minutes, and when I took them out and put them in the warm water the same thing happened.
Here's the result:
Spoiler (Click to View)
So, what did I do wrong, exactly? I purchased more black Rit dye to try again, and I want to make sure I do it right this time.
That is exactly what happened to me as well. I have tried several times as well, and always ended up a dud.
Everything looks fine and was coated, until that point where you put it in warm water - it all washes off.
I have up after like 3 times.
Everything looks fine and was coated, until that point where you put it in warm water - it all washes off.
I have up after like 3 times.
These ARE old directions... Maybe the Rit Dye formula has changed??
So I just tried following these instructions for dying polycarbonate plastic using acetone, and I have interesting results:
http://www.yoyonation.com/talk/index.php...643.0;wap2
The first thing I tried dying--a Hasbro UW145--eventually turned black, but it wasn't perfect and it is no longer clear. The next things I tried--a 230, Scythe's PC frame, and a 145, all Takara Tomy--did not retain any dye AT ALL. This, combined with the fact that Hasbro parts are almost always much lighter, leads me to think that Hasbro must be using some kind of different plastic in their parts.
I'm going to keep trying to dye these darn parts with Rit Dye, and I'll post instructions on how to do it if I can manage to get it to finally work.
ANYONE WHO HAS GOTTEN THE OP'S INSTRUCTIONS TO WORK RECENTLY: PLEASE POST WHAT YOU DID!
http://www.yoyonation.com/talk/index.php...643.0;wap2
The first thing I tried dying--a Hasbro UW145--eventually turned black, but it wasn't perfect and it is no longer clear. The next things I tried--a 230, Scythe's PC frame, and a 145, all Takara Tomy--did not retain any dye AT ALL. This, combined with the fact that Hasbro parts are almost always much lighter, leads me to think that Hasbro must be using some kind of different plastic in their parts.
I'm going to keep trying to dye these darn parts with Rit Dye, and I'll post instructions on how to do it if I can manage to get it to finally work.
ANYONE WHO HAS GOTTEN THE OP'S INSTRUCTIONS TO WORK RECENTLY: PLEASE POST WHAT YOU DID!