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Full Version: Theflightyellz's Quick Guide to Plastic Dyeing
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This was just something I wanted to do quickly, I may do a better version but it's unlikely.
I seriously wouldn't recommend this method to anyone who isn't an adult (or at a bare minimum isn't under heavy adult supervision), or anyone who doesn't have an outside heat source.
We originally tried to heat the water on a BBQ, but not enough heat would pass through to the pan, didn't work.
I'd say the best place to do this, would be on a hot plate in a garage, or back yard by using an extension cord.

EDIT, IMPORTANT: In step 4, you'll be wanting to add 1/2 of your pack of rit dye. No more, no less.

[Image: quickdyeingtutorial.png]

If you have any further questions, feel free to ask me and I'll do the best I can to answer them.
Hope this proves useful.
Oh damn, I really have to try this over the summer. Guess I've found a use for those light wheel boosters.
wow that's cool might try it out on my stuff. Actually i will i might do it tomorrow thanks great idea
That's really cool maybe when /if you update you could list dyes that work better then others

Also great job this is another great guide
<3, that is awesome. That red is spectacular.
It's so pretty. :3
Awesome, what kind of dye did you use.
We both used Rit Dye.
Awsome guys, where do you get your Rit from?
ebay: http://stores.ebay.com/funinmind_Rit-Dye...ec0Q2em322
You're looking for "Rit Dye Fabric Powder"
I ususaly see Rit Dye at my local Kmarts...
It's not such a common product in England, primarily due to it being an American product.
Can't be sure without trying it, but I think Dylon would probably work just as well:
http://www.dylon.co.uk/products/dyes/fab...chine-use/
So just a quick question to clarify, when dying the GB145 did you just put the whole thing in? The dye didn't affect the metal balls?
Whole thing went in, and dye didn't effect the metal balls at all, the dye just won't permeate the metal.
Some of it stuck to them slightly, but after the first rinse they looked as good as new.
Since the heat is fairly low and constant as well, there was no warping or deformation of any of the parts.
Polycarbonate is extremely resistant to heat, and even radiation:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate
ahh thanks for the answer. I'm really itching to try this.
The effects are great, really.

I can't wait to try some other colours; you guys are quite lucky to have such easy access to fabric dyes over in North America. :]
In all honesty, the results are always going to be better with very light colored, white, or completely clear parts, which unfortunately are pretty few and far between outside of limited edition beys.
Kinda hoping that Hasbro will provide us with a "Crystal series" of some sort, since they'd obviously be ideal for dyeing and tinting.
A modernized saint beasts booster would be amazing right about now :\
Honestly, buying the entire RBVL2 & 3 sets is looking like a good decision now.
Cool. I'll hit up my old plastics with this and see if it works. The last dye I bought totally failed...
The plastic being a lot weaker, you might get a fair amount of warping if you don't take it out and let it cool slightly every minute or two.
This is such a good idea, Will have to give it ago soon or later, quite glad I have a lot of spare Clear Wheels now haha. Was wondering though, If I was to dye the Pheonix clear wheel would the yellow painted bits also go another colour?
(Apr. 28, 2010  8:56 PM)Blitz Wrote: [ -> ]This is such a good idea, Will have to give it ago soon or later, quite glad I have a lot of spare Clear Wheels now haha. Was wondering though, If I was to dye the Pheonix clear wheel would the yellow painted bits also go another colour?
They would, they'd probably be the first parts to change actually.
More pics please...
PS: It looks AWESOME!
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