Plastics General Discussion

I recall doing weird things like sticking springs into the blade base where the geartooth bit of the Spin Gear inserts.

Yeah I had strange habits with Beyblades back then....
That was pretty normal to be honest. I did stuff like that too, mostly aimed around adding more weight and altering tips, haha. Rarely ever to official parts, aside from modifying a spiral change base to put in my very beat up driger s tip which by that point was more of a semi flat, initially that just involved pushing it in and was fine, then one day I decided for some reason to shave off the plastic tip of the base... Oh, and I did shave the poles off one of my left SG's to allow 4-layer AR's, Kellogs AR's and the fake Cross Griffon I had (which didn't have the holes there, I assume because it was a four layer beyblade they thought it didn't have them or something), seeing as the fake company I bought a lot of beyblades from (hey, they were like $2 and it was IMPOSSIBLE to find real ones, and I was a kid, and they had metal tips which we all assumed were the best things ever), never produced a left SG (they had right SG's with a mirrored L Mark on them though lol). It's kind of irritating now having these left SG casings sitting there that I cannot legally use, though they don't hold AR's as securely as a regular left spin sg and aren't neo SG's, it's still kinda annoying because left casings are a pain to find sometimes.
(Jul. 12, 2012  12:07 PM)Ultra Wrote: He doesn't and to both of you they never made a galux beyblade.

He once had one in his shop under the sold section, but I think he maybe cleaned it up.
They released a Pink Galeon with a Galux bit chip and it was then named Galux.
(Jul. 12, 2012  3:03 PM)th!nk Wrote: That was pretty normal to be honest. I did stuff like that too, mostly aimed around adding more weight and altering tips, haha. Rarely ever to official parts, aside from modifying a spiral change base to put in my very beat up driger s tip which by that point was more of a semi flat, initially that just involved pushing it in and was fine, then one day I decided for some reason to shave off the plastic tip of the base... Oh, and I did shave the poles off one of my left SG's to allow 4-layer AR's, Kellogs AR's and the fake Cross Griffon I had (which didn't have the holes there, I assume because it was a four layer beyblade they thought it didn't have them or something), seeing as the fake company I bought a lot of beyblades from (hey, they were like $2 and it was IMPOSSIBLE to find real ones, and I was a kid, and they had metal tips which we all assumed were the best things ever), never produced a left SG (they had right SG's with a mirrored L Mark on them though lol). It's kind of irritating now having these left SG casings sitting there that I cannot legally use, though they don't hold AR's as securely as a regular left spin sg and aren't neo SG's, it's still kinda annoying because left casings are a pain to find sometimes.
Left SG casings are a PAIN for me to find also.
Um i'm easily the most knowledgable person here on plastic releases FYI. They didn't. What happened is that they released a pink Galeon in a random booster and then a galux bit chip sticker was released seperately.
(Jul. 12, 2012  2:08 PM)th!nk Wrote:
(Jul. 12, 2012  2:16 AM)BeyKids Wrote: I know theirs plastics lying around in my house somewhere.
The rarist plastic is a Black Dranzer Gt I heard there is only 100 in the world but Galux is rare.

Yeah, no. Don't post incorrect information as fact here, it won't fly. They never made a black dranzer GT, the image of one that floats around is a photoshopped image by someone on deviantart.
Oh then thats wierd I saw this guy on youtube have one

He's a member on here but it's likely it's a normal one painted black.
ABS, which plastics are made from, is not hard at all to paint or even dye, and black is one of the easier colours to dye something, as it isn't really affected by what colour a part is from the start.
So my Blizzard Orthros G arrived abotu an hour ago, and after testing it out...it's actually not bad. Despite the really unorthodox oval-shaped AR, it's not terrible. Now mind you, none of these parts are recommended for serious play, but it actually did better than I thought (I had low standards for it though, haha). The EG is interesting. It has a detachable tip like the GT series (Dranzer GT, Dragoon GT, Gigars, Zeus). However, the blade base is the exact same base as Draciel G, so that kinda deterred me a bit. Overall, it's probably just a collectors item. But it looks really nice next to my Burning Kerberous, and besides that it looks cool in general.
I don't think Blizzard was ever part of Hasbro's name for it, just "Orthros G".

I've got a Blizzard Orthrus coming (yes, finally, I'm actually going to own one), so when I get it, I'll be testing the parts, I'm curious to see what the AR can do on a base that handles recoil well by my standards (i.e. Ariel 2's tip), and investigate the SP for both Attack and Survival, and the base for some ideas I want to try out. Even if it sucks (and I doubt the SP will), I'm not really fussed because it's a pretty beyblade and I've wanted one for ages.

As for the parts of Orthrus G, they were known, though if you can take some pictures of the CEW, I'd appreciate it, as I'm yet to find a good image of CEW Metal Ball (or did they call it ball sharp, I dunno).
Nice, I also got a used Orthros G from my friend in exchange for a Pirates Orojya. It was a pretty good trade. It was in used condition and only had the bit chip sticker.
(Jul. 13, 2012  10:03 PM)th!nk Wrote:
I've actually heard the base is a slightly improved version of DCV2's base, but still sucks. SP look pretty handy though. Kinda remind me of Cross Survivor...
Hey wait, where did you get a Blizzard Orthros? And for how much? I envy youuuuuu

And by the way, here are the pics:
I know these pics aren't great; I apologize. It's really late at night and the Nikon's charging so I had to use my iPhone.
Meh, I generally tend not to trust hearsay, or most things I read, seeing as they've proven wrong far too many times. It has a flat tip, so it wouldn't act like Draciel V2's base, and would have different uses as a result.

I paid a fair price for it, from a seller who wishes to remain anonymous.

Thanks for those pictures. With the name, the only source I could find for it, which was beybladespirit, called it CEW Metal Ball Sharp or similar, however, it's the CEW version of EG Metal Ball, and no other CEW's change the name from their eg version, and it wasn't released by takara tomy, and I don't think Hasbro named their parts (though I've not given this more than a cursory look into), so I imagine it was just an (incorrect) fan name, and more correctly would be CEW Metal Ball.

One thing though, you've got an 8 wide there instead of a 10 wide on it. Do you know if it came with that out of the box? I recall a couple of people mentioning that happen, amongst a lot of contradictory evidence from others, so I'm curious.
I also have a Orthros G (how many times have I mentioned it?) and there is something that I want to know if it also occurs to yours. When you launch the beyblade with the engine gear winded up, about how long does it take for the final clutch base to activate. The thing is that mine activates really early (about 7-9 seconds) and that maybe mine is either a bit old, or they did that to all Orthros G's.
(Jul. 14, 2012  5:36 AM)th!nk Wrote: One thing though, you've got an 8 wide there instead of a 10 wide on it. Do you know if it came with that out of the box? I recall a couple of people mentioning that happen, amongst a lot of contradictory evidence from others, so I'm curious.
No problem.

I got it from a seller on eBay who sold it out of box, but in very good condition. Although the weight disk does seem to fit very tightly to the Engine Gear and it's a weird gold color, it feels like a legit piece. I would have no way of knowing for sure it came with the beyblade originally, however...
(Jul. 14, 2012  7:09 AM)UltimateFantasy Wrote: I also have a Orthros G (how many times have I mentioned it?) and there is something that I want to know if it also occurs to yours. When you launch the beyblade with the engine gear winded up, about how long does it take for the final clutch base to activate. The thing is that mine activates really early (about 7-9 seconds) and that maybe mine is either a bit old, or they did that to all Orthros G's.
My engine gear has a different problem. When I wind it up, as soon as I reach a certain point the whole thing makes a loud click noise and suddenly the tension is gone. I've learned to only wind it up close to that point but stop before getting there, but it's frustrating and definitely makes the EG release weaker.

But now that you mention it....my FC Base does activate a bit early. It usually goes off beginning-middle of the battle. Interesting...
(Jul. 14, 2012  3:54 PM)Sparta Wrote:
(Jul. 14, 2012  5:36 AM)th!nk Wrote: One thing though, you've got an 8 wide there instead of a 10 wide on it. Do you know if it came with that out of the box? I recall a couple of people mentioning that happen, amongst a lot of contradictory evidence from others, so I'm curious.
No problem.

I got it from a seller on eBay who sold it out of box, but in very good condition. Although the weight disk does seem to fit very tightly to the Engine Gear and it's a weird gold color, it feels like a legit piece. I would have no way of knowing for sure it came with the beyblade originally, however...
(Jul. 14, 2012  7:09 AM)UltimateFantasy Wrote: I also have a Orthros G (how many times have I mentioned it?) and there is something that I want to know if it also occurs to yours. When you launch the beyblade with the engine gear winded up, about how long does it take for the final clutch base to activate. The thing is that mine activates really early (about 7-9 seconds) and that maybe mine is either a bit old, or they did that to all Orthros G's.
My engine gear has a different problem. When I wind it up, as soon as I reach a certain point the whole thing makes a loud click noise and suddenly the tension is gone. I've learned to only wind it up close to that point but stop before getting there, but it's frustrating and definitely makes the EG release weaker.

But now that you mention it....my FC Base does activate a bit early. It usually goes off beginning-middle of the battle. Interesting...

It releases about the time of a middle clutch base. That may have been a manufacturing error. I think I know the one on ebay you bought, was the bidding starting at $80 and the buy it now at $100 with a black launcher?
No, different one. I got mine for $35 with $5 shipping. It had pictures in the description and came with both a black launcher and a really fake light blue dragon winder.
I do remember a black launcher with a light blue ripcord. Whatever, I'm going REALLY off topic. Back to the errors on Orthros G, I do notice when I am winding it when it is fully unwinded, it is REALLY loose (looser than a MFB eternal sharp tip) and takes a while to get hard and then EVEN longer to start clicking for me to pull the tabs. It may possibly be from being REALLY old and used.
That happens to all engine gears with age....
I've been thinking about trying to create a string launcher type of deal for plastics. Although (obviously) it would be illegal in events, it might be fun to use against friends or for videos, as the more powerful launch will result in longer videos.

I was thinking of ways to do this. Maybe just swapping out the prongs of an EZ-launcher to a string launcher? Sounds easy, but I don't think it will fit properly.

Does anyone else have any ideas? Feedback? Thanks.
It can be done exactly like you said, however the result feels less powerful than a regular EZ Shooter to me. maybe it was a faulty string launcher as I hadn't used it in a while and it was quite old, and from what I can tell in terms of launching MFB the power of an EZ Shooter is about the same, but yeah.

Basically, you'd want to find a way to up the power somehow, but I'm not 100% sure how string launchers work just yet, despite having disassembled and reassembled many in my time.

I've been considering designing a custom launcher for myself for free play for a while now, though it would be based off the Dual Shooter Ripcord from HMS rather than a string mechanism, and probably use the same gear ratio as the EZ Shooter Power Custom, because I like the feel of ripcords and those are darned sturdy. The other thing I dislike about string launchers, despite the convenience for testing, is the fact more moving parts = more things to go wrong, and this shows in their breakage rates.
I've already done something like that, actually. I took an HMS launcher and added MFB prongs to it. It works okay, but I had to cut so much plastic and it was a disaster to clean. You should really check to make sure everything fits before you do it. Otherwise, that sounds neat.

@th!nk I'm confused. You're using an HMS Dual Shooter to make the launcher? Or do you mean you're just using the ripcord?
Trust me, I had the same experience with Th!nk, the MFB string launcher is a powerful launcher in general, but when switching the prongs, it is incredibly weak. I also had a couple of them breaking and fixed them watching akirasdaddy's videos. Trust me, String Launchers Are Best For MFB. They are VERY complex and it is just better to use a ripcord launcher for plastics. I just got the idea of using the MFB light launcher 2 (from it being stronger than the regular light launcher), although I can't try now because I am currently traveling.
Sparta: I'd be basing it on the dual shooter's ripcord and the overall design of the Dual Shooter for dual spin and simplicity. Ideally, I'd want to work from scratch, but working out a stop mechanism without the spring mechanism it uses (which is something I dislike, I find the fast downward motion it pushes the bey with uncomfortable) isn't easy, and I don't have much time, or great access to materials or equipment to do anything with.


UltimateFantasy: EZ Shooters with MFB prongs launch MFB fairly well but the strain their weight places on the ripcord is not good at all.

Honestly, I'd rather a ripcord launcher than a string launcher, the retracting mechanism causes so many jamming and breaking issues, as well as bumping up the price, to the point it's just not worth it IMO. If they produced a ripcord launcher for MFB that launched at the same speed as a beylauncher, and used a resilient ripcord design (the LL2's is suitable), and didn't have the kickback of the LL2 design, I'd be all over that.
My sister just found this in my house Grin
When I used to buy plastics, I got a couple fakes from a flea market.
Notice how it says "Wdolborg" on the stickers. XD


Sorry for the huge pics!
That reminds me of my fake Scissors Cutter actually, similar wildly inaccurate molding, but Wdolborg is a gem, haha. Still, takara and sonokong made similar mistakes throughout their line, so eh.