I know Takara fused with TOMY after Bakuten Shoot Beyblade, but why does the company seem so different now then ? If it really endorsed those modifications, should it not allow 'something' in Metal Fight Beyblade ? It is not the case, and something as easy as putting WA on 145 is, while ambiguous, probably not considered legal by them.
Plastics General Discussion
Well, at those early times they ended up having to restrict it because parents with backgrounds in metalworking and so on tricked out their childrens beyblades to the point no one else could compete with them - which they could have done without banning everything else, and still had a very (perhaps more) balanced metagame, and certainly a more interesting and unique one.
HMS was fairly strict, but then that was also partially the small range of parts. Still, from there to MFB it isn't a huge leap - one that TOMY's involvement could explain, or just changing attitudes - and I guess it makes explaining and checking legality much simpler (though apparently not simple enough for Hasbro).
But honestly, I can't truly explain it, no - especially the WA145/ED130 thing.
HMS was fairly strict, but then that was also partially the small range of parts. Still, from there to MFB it isn't a huge leap - one that TOMY's involvement could explain, or just changing attitudes - and I guess it makes explaining and checking legality much simpler (though apparently not simple enough for Hasbro).
But honestly, I can't truly explain it, no - especially the WA145/ED130 thing.
![[Image: UwZsp7A.png]](https://i.imgur.com/UwZsp7A.png)
(May. 23, 2012 2:55 PM)Kai-V Wrote: I know Takara fused with TOMY after Bakuten Shoot Beyblade, but why does the company seem so different now then ? If it really endorsed those modifications, should it not allow 'something' in Metal Fight Beyblade ? It is not the case, and something as easy as putting WA on 145 is, while ambiguous, probably not considered legal by them.
A company is basically always going in the direction that its executives choose, and when new ones show up, and old ones leave, and new ones are promoted in their stead, etc. a lot can change. If you can find the old employment roster/list of executives for Takara's Beyblade division before and after the TOMY addition back then, you'll probably have your answer.
![[Image: hazelsignature2.jpg]](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/OrochiStorm/hazelsignature2.jpg)
Here's something rather interesting, for me at least, about the weights of weight disks.
Here are a couple of weights for each, I took while working on something for my blog (that will probably be useful for the wiki if I rewrite it in a more formal style). It must be noted that my scale was not calibrated as I couldn't find the weight, it's about .02g under a couple of previous weights I re-measured to check. Nonetheless, these weights were all taken in relatively quick succession, and each one was double-checked. Not up to the standard needed for an official piece, but nonetheless it should be a decent indicator.
Just posting the relevant stuff here, but yeah.
8 heavy is usually noted as being lighter than 6. From my measurements, though, they appear to be the same.
(6) Heavy: 15.46g, 15.22g, 15.00g. I weighed a fourth and it weighed 12.14g, I assume it's a fake that has snuck in somehow, it's noticeably thinner.
8 heavy: 15.14g, 15.40g, 15.90g: There are actually two molds of 8 heavy, one of them has a small indentation around the centre (used by Takara (though not all the time) and Sonokong), but that was the 15.4g one, the other two were the more regular mold (used by hasbro, and takara too sometimes), so they don't make a big difference. Note the massive overlap with (6) Heavy.
10 Heavy: 16.00g, 16.48g, 15.91g. Worth noting that 16.48 and 15.91 weren't chosen randomly, they are my heaviest and lightest 10 heavies respectively. The other was chosen randomly and 16-16.2g seems to be the usual range.
Now, note that our regular resource site, http://homepage3.nifty.com/hind/sub10-1.htm and its weights for those WD's. I have weighed all of my 10 heavies, and I have a fairly substantial number, and none have even approached 17g.
Honestly, we need to reweigh most plastic parts to better than 1g. Once I locate my calibration weight I plan to do a bit, but I can't weigh any magnetic parts, as my scale is affected by magnets (it tells me MG WD weighs ~37g, heavier than most zombies).
Also, I weighed the 8 heavy from my sonokong gold driger s: 14.48g, roughly a gram lighter than average, lol.
Also, my heavy attack came in at 16.12g, which is right in the middle of the 10 heavy range. The recoil still makes it practically useless, but yeah.
So much for 8 heavy being the underfed awkward middle child WD then
Here are a couple of weights for each, I took while working on something for my blog (that will probably be useful for the wiki if I rewrite it in a more formal style). It must be noted that my scale was not calibrated as I couldn't find the weight, it's about .02g under a couple of previous weights I re-measured to check. Nonetheless, these weights were all taken in relatively quick succession, and each one was double-checked. Not up to the standard needed for an official piece, but nonetheless it should be a decent indicator.
Just posting the relevant stuff here, but yeah.
8 heavy is usually noted as being lighter than 6. From my measurements, though, they appear to be the same.
(6) Heavy: 15.46g, 15.22g, 15.00g. I weighed a fourth and it weighed 12.14g, I assume it's a fake that has snuck in somehow, it's noticeably thinner.
8 heavy: 15.14g, 15.40g, 15.90g: There are actually two molds of 8 heavy, one of them has a small indentation around the centre (used by Takara (though not all the time) and Sonokong), but that was the 15.4g one, the other two were the more regular mold (used by hasbro, and takara too sometimes), so they don't make a big difference. Note the massive overlap with (6) Heavy.
10 Heavy: 16.00g, 16.48g, 15.91g. Worth noting that 16.48 and 15.91 weren't chosen randomly, they are my heaviest and lightest 10 heavies respectively. The other was chosen randomly and 16-16.2g seems to be the usual range.
Now, note that our regular resource site, http://homepage3.nifty.com/hind/sub10-1.htm and its weights for those WD's. I have weighed all of my 10 heavies, and I have a fairly substantial number, and none have even approached 17g.
Honestly, we need to reweigh most plastic parts to better than 1g. Once I locate my calibration weight I plan to do a bit, but I can't weigh any magnetic parts, as my scale is affected by magnets (it tells me MG WD weighs ~37g, heavier than most zombies).
Also, I weighed the 8 heavy from my sonokong gold driger s: 14.48g, roughly a gram lighter than average, lol.
Also, my heavy attack came in at 16.12g, which is right in the middle of the 10 heavy range. The recoil still makes it practically useless, but yeah.
So much for 8 heavy being the underfed awkward middle child WD then
EDIT:
Hm, yesterday I did a little testing of flame pegasus' base/sg with a trypio AR and metal change cew (changeable bearing swapped to an nsk one), and it was doing quite well, but today it's not doing nearly as well. No clue why it's not legal then.
With two NSK bearings it's definitely powerful though.
EDIT2: Speaking of bearings, I shot NSK's Australian arm an email today to see if I could dig up any more info on the specs of the bearings used back then, seeing as I'm still not sure MR52ZZ covers everything (It covers the dimensions and shielding type, but I'm not sure what, if anything else - and there's a fair bit to cover), and just generally to get all the info I can on them, as well as a couple of historical questions. Hopefully I get something back, even just some info on bearing terminology, though it really is a long shot.
Hm, yesterday I did a little testing of flame pegasus' base/sg with a trypio AR and metal change cew (changeable bearing swapped to an nsk one), and it was doing quite well, but today it's not doing nearly as well. No clue why it's not legal then.
With two NSK bearings it's definitely powerful though.
EDIT2: Speaking of bearings, I shot NSK's Australian arm an email today to see if I could dig up any more info on the specs of the bearings used back then, seeing as I'm still not sure MR52ZZ covers everything (It covers the dimensions and shielding type, but I'm not sure what, if anything else - and there's a fair bit to cover), and just generally to get all the info I can on them, as well as a couple of historical questions. Hopefully I get something back, even just some info on bearing terminology, though it really is a long shot.
I did get something back from NSK which I'll post tomorrow maybe. Nothing that solid but the guy I spoke to was really helpful.
In the mean time, though, I just noticed that not only can you put the two "hole" halves of two metal drigers together, but the hole (well, the two halves don't align perfectly but yeah) that leaves is the perfect size to fit Ariel 2's tip. Wildly illegal of course, but it is pretty hilarious, and is a way to use it with an HMC though it doesn't sit in perfectly (and if you're going to do that you may as well just do the inverted storm grip tip, hah.)
In the mean time, though, I just noticed that not only can you put the two "hole" halves of two metal drigers together, but the hole (well, the two halves don't align perfectly but yeah) that leaves is the perfect size to fit Ariel 2's tip. Wildly illegal of course, but it is pretty hilarious, and is a way to use it with an HMC though it doesn't sit in perfectly (and if you're going to do that you may as well just do the inverted storm grip tip, hah.)
A few of my plastic beyblades have the "BBA" tattoo on their bases and attack rings. I'm not sure what it means and if it has any value, but I've always thought it was interesting how some had it and some don't...
![[Image: eminemsignew.png]](https://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l505/spartandranzer/eminemsignew.png)
It's a hasbro thing, it doesn't affect the value, though I think only releases after a certain point in time carried that mark.
I just got my SOK Dranzer S, and can confirm, sadly, that it does come with Gold-Series sized parts. It was already certain at this point, but I've seen it with my own eyes. Same sub-par molding too. SonoKong's pre-g series plastics really bridge the gap between fakes and the real things, all the horrors of fake molding but without quite the same ridiculous fragility and "blurriness" of then mold (as usual, sonokong's molds are "sharper" than usual). Actually, the SG Casings are the worst molded I've ever seen, and I've owned a lot of fakes. The top has not just a small dent, but what looks like someone poked the tip of Dranzer S's SG fairly deep into it before it dried as a joke. This is identical on both casings, and accross from that is a smaller indentation, still larger than I've seen on any other licensed beyblade, about the same as is normal for fakes.
Luckily, I only wanted it for display, most of the messy molding is on the inside (though the AR isn't great) and I like dranzer S with red weight disks, so it'll fit the red 8 Balance from the gold series one very nicely. Though, I'm assuming the stickers, like the gold series ones, will be a little too large so that sucks.
The gold bearing from my sonokong gold dranzer S, which also comes with this regular coloured one, does seem slightly better than my other metal bearings. Slightly and Seems being keywords.
On another upside, because the molding isn't all consistently sized or some similar reason, this is the first dranzer S I've owned where the tip protrudes in stamina mode, simply because the base gets stuck at it's most pushed-up position. However, in exchange for this, the tighter molding somewhere in the bey prevents the tip from spinning at all, let alone freely.
Guess they're still a decent source for base clips though, they're slightly smaller but it doesn't cause anything more than a little extra rattling in most beys, assuming they're the same as the gold series ones (which they would have to be really, they obviously used the same molds for them).
The poster it came with has a mini product list on the back that I'll scan when I have time. Here's a sample of their names for some of the 4-layer beys (released as B-##), taken from the bit chips shown which have the english translation, and backed up by the last symbol of the Korean names being the same.
Names are in capitals as that's how they're shown on the bitchip, don't want to imply any spacing or so on that I can't see:
Megaro Arm: MEGATOP
Spark Knight: SPARKTOP (or SPARK TOP)
Polta: POLTOP
Makendo: MEKENTOP
I burst out laughing at Poltop but Mekentop really sealed the deal. I vote we start calling Polta, Megaro Arm and Makendo their Korean names. Not Spark Knight though, there's enough confusion with Sparkling Attacker as it is.
Luckily, I only wanted it for display, most of the messy molding is on the inside (though the AR isn't great) and I like dranzer S with red weight disks, so it'll fit the red 8 Balance from the gold series one very nicely. Though, I'm assuming the stickers, like the gold series ones, will be a little too large so that sucks.
The gold bearing from my sonokong gold dranzer S, which also comes with this regular coloured one, does seem slightly better than my other metal bearings. Slightly and Seems being keywords.
On another upside, because the molding isn't all consistently sized or some similar reason, this is the first dranzer S I've owned where the tip protrudes in stamina mode, simply because the base gets stuck at it's most pushed-up position. However, in exchange for this, the tighter molding somewhere in the bey prevents the tip from spinning at all, let alone freely.
Guess they're still a decent source for base clips though, they're slightly smaller but it doesn't cause anything more than a little extra rattling in most beys, assuming they're the same as the gold series ones (which they would have to be really, they obviously used the same molds for them).
The poster it came with has a mini product list on the back that I'll scan when I have time. Here's a sample of their names for some of the 4-layer beys (released as B-##), taken from the bit chips shown which have the english translation, and backed up by the last symbol of the Korean names being the same.
Names are in capitals as that's how they're shown on the bitchip, don't want to imply any spacing or so on that I can't see:
Megaro Arm: MEGATOP
Spark Knight: SPARKTOP (or SPARK TOP)
Polta: POLTOP
Makendo: MEKENTOP
I burst out laughing at Poltop but Mekentop really sealed the deal. I vote we start calling Polta, Megaro Arm and Makendo their Korean names. Not Spark Knight though, there's enough confusion with Sparkling Attacker as it is.
This may be a bit too random (please tell me if it belongs here or not), but which would you say is the best line of beyblades (dragoon,dranzer, driger, Draciel, etc.)? In my opinion, I would say Wolborg or Driger.
(Jul. 07, 2012 3:40 PM)UltimateFantasy Wrote: This may be a bit too random (please tell me if it belongs here or not), but which would you say is the best line of beyblades (dragoon,dranzer, driger, Draciel, etc.)? In my opinion, I would say Wolborg or Driger.
I think it could belong in here. It is a plastic Question. But to answer it:
THe Dragoon Series had the Rubber Base of Dragoon S, And the BB of Dragoon V2 which is used in many top tier Customs. Dranzer Had the Dranzer S base which has use. And Dranzer V2 subpart is used for Zombie and some defense customs. Draciel Series had the metal balls. Which are always useful. And the BB of Draciel S & F are useful for compacts and Defense. Driger had several good pats. Driger S Attack Ring is on of the best attack rings available. In left spin its good for zombies/Spin Stealers. Driger F wasn't that great. But Driger V/V2 had good parts. The BB on Driger V does some stamina and compact use. Driger V2 subpart are decent for attack. And the wolborg 2 shaft is used quite a bit. Im using it right now actually. And Wolborg 4 has some uses combined with either Wide Defense or 10 wide.
![[Image: AqKPC.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/AqKPC.jpg)
What is/was everyones strongest plastic bey mine was my Driger V
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UltimateFantasy: Driger has the best beyblade out of the box (V2), the best beyblade overall (S), and the best beyblade on a restricted budget (G), that I can think of. V2's Base, G's AR, and S's AR and Base are all incredible parts, F has a useful shaft, and V's base is okay, but I don't own one so I don't have much experience with it.
Dragoon and Dranzer both have a lot of great parts, but for Dranzer there are always better/more practical alternatives except for S's Base and V2's SP, while Dragoon has only got three truly must-have parts (Grip Base, Dragoon V2's BB, Neo Left Casings). There's not a single main-line draciel part that doesn't have a better-performing alternative. As for wolborg, wolborg 1 and 03 let 2 and 4 down, though all have at least one good part (though wolborg 1 only barely in its casings, it's a ridiculously overrated beyblade), none are any good out of the box, and good combos with all but 4 generally require expensive parts. Definitely nowhere near the others though.
If you count non-main-line beys, Dragoon, Dranzer and Draciel all improve slightly more than Driger does, but I still feel driger holds the lead, just ahead of Dragoon/Dranzer, which are basically tied, edge to dranzer because of Dragoon F/V. Draciel improves the most as it gets two solid additions (especially Master/Kid Draciel which rocks), but it's still a solid fourth of those. Wolborg would be ahead of draciel, as 2 and 4 are must haves, while only Master Draciel is a must-have from the entire draciel line, but Dragoon and Dranzer beat wolborg just on sheer number of parts that are at least good.
I won't include Gaia Dragoon, Galeon or Trygle, just because they simply didn't have enough releases to be compared. I also didn't count the dark beys as they weren't really parts of their respective series, rather their own series by themselves.
Basically: Driger>Dranzer>Dragoon>Wolborg>Draciel. Driger doesn't have as many releases but the vast majority of Drigers are must-haves and just excellent beys all around. Dranzer has a couple of excellent beys and nothing absolutely worthless, Dragoon has a whole bunch of good beys but is dragged below dranzer by the dead weight of F and V, Wolborg is great for even numbers, but the odd numbers are heavily outclassed, and Draciel makes me wonder why they bothered. The order doesn't really change once you take out non-main line beyblades, though if you only count S, F, V, V2 and G where all but wolborg have 5 entries, wolborg overtakes dragoon.
Dragoon and Dranzer both have a lot of great parts, but for Dranzer there are always better/more practical alternatives except for S's Base and V2's SP, while Dragoon has only got three truly must-have parts (Grip Base, Dragoon V2's BB, Neo Left Casings). There's not a single main-line draciel part that doesn't have a better-performing alternative. As for wolborg, wolborg 1 and 03 let 2 and 4 down, though all have at least one good part (though wolborg 1 only barely in its casings, it's a ridiculously overrated beyblade), none are any good out of the box, and good combos with all but 4 generally require expensive parts. Definitely nowhere near the others though.
If you count non-main-line beys, Dragoon, Dranzer and Draciel all improve slightly more than Driger does, but I still feel driger holds the lead, just ahead of Dragoon/Dranzer, which are basically tied, edge to dranzer because of Dragoon F/V. Draciel improves the most as it gets two solid additions (especially Master/Kid Draciel which rocks), but it's still a solid fourth of those. Wolborg would be ahead of draciel, as 2 and 4 are must haves, while only Master Draciel is a must-have from the entire draciel line, but Dragoon and Dranzer beat wolborg just on sheer number of parts that are at least good.
I won't include Gaia Dragoon, Galeon or Trygle, just because they simply didn't have enough releases to be compared. I also didn't count the dark beys as they weren't really parts of their respective series, rather their own series by themselves.
Basically: Driger>Dranzer>Dragoon>Wolborg>Draciel. Driger doesn't have as many releases but the vast majority of Drigers are must-haves and just excellent beys all around. Dranzer has a couple of excellent beys and nothing absolutely worthless, Dragoon has a whole bunch of good beys but is dragged below dranzer by the dead weight of F and V, Wolborg is great for even numbers, but the odd numbers are heavily outclassed, and Draciel makes me wonder why they bothered. The order doesn't really change once you take out non-main line beyblades, though if you only count S, F, V, V2 and G where all but wolborg have 5 entries, wolborg overtakes dragoon.
Great/Good/Okay/Bad beys for each line, including side-beys (Click to View)
I plan on playing in the upcoming plastic tournament but i only have driger g, dragoon gt, trygle 2 g and zeus. Is there any good combination i can make from them or anything i can buy that isn't to expensive to improve them?
Head on over here for combo help! It's in the title after all!
Not really. Those are all pretty bad with any proper attack type bases.
Driger G and Dragoon GT both have great AR's, but attack bases aren't really cheap.
Yea, figured as much lol wasn't too worried about having something great just something a little better than what i have stock. Thanks though.
Does galux exist? I heard it only had a limited edition bitchip but that's all but on youtube there's a guy who has it, so my question is how rare is it and is it the rarest plastic?
(Jul. 11, 2012 11:47 PM)Fong Wrote: Does galux exist? I heard it only had a limited edition bitchip but that's all but on youtube there's a guy who has it, so my question is how rare is it and is it the rarest plastic?
This question was recently asked, and answered in Plastics Q&A, which is the actual Questions and Answers thread for Plastics, where you should go AFTER you've actually done a search for your answer and been unable to find anything.
This is general discussion, not Q&A, and you obviously didn't search.
I know theirs plastics lying around in my house somewhere.
The rarist plastic is a Black Dranzer Gt I heard there is only 100 in the world but Galux is rare.
The rarist plastic is a Black Dranzer Gt I heard there is only 100 in the world but Galux is rare.
(Jul. 11, 2012 11:58 PM)th!nk Wrote:(Jul. 11, 2012 11:47 PM)Fong Wrote: Does galux exist? I heard it only had a limited edition bitchip but that's all but on youtube there's a guy who has it, so my question is how rare is it and is it the rarest plastic?
This question was recently asked, and answered in Plastics Q&A, which is the actual Questions and Answers thread for Plastics, where you should go AFTER you've actually done a search for your answer and been unable to find anything.
This is general discussion, not Q&A, and you obviously didn't search.
I may be wrong, but i remember Dio having one in his shop under the sold section.
He doesn't and to both of you they never made a galux beyblade.
(Jul. 12, 2012 2:16 AM)BeyKids Wrote: I know theirs plastics lying around in my house somewhere.
The rarist plastic is a Black Dranzer Gt I heard there is only 100 in the world but Galux is rare.
Yeah, no. Don't post incorrect information as fact here, it won't fly. They never made a black dranzer GT, the image of one that floats around is a photoshopped image by someone on deviantart.