I am not sure if anyone has ever heard of "UFO beyblades" before, but I have seen them and they are very very powerful and have the strongest defense/endurance. However, it is an illegal customization because you will need to file and polish the beyblade parts in order to make a perfect UFO beyblade.
Before you begin, you will need the following beyblade parts:
1 primary AR from any of the ARs (except Zeus' AR) that have a separate free moving layer (like Galeon, Galeon etc)
2 Cross Survival SPs
1 Wide Defense/Wide Survival WD
1 Spiral Change Base
1 Wolborg 2 shaft (Mint/near Mint)
2 NSK well-tuned bearings
1 Right/Left SG casing
1 Wolborg/Wolborg 2/Dranzer S shaft casing
Be sure to have spare parts in case something goes wrong
Equipments needed:
File, Cutter, Plastic Polish, Metal Polish
Optional (but useful):
Battery-driven beyblade launcher
BEFORE YOU BEGIN, BE SURE THAT YOU ARE WILLING TO SACRIFICE YOUR BEYBLADE PARTS!!!
Here are the steps:
AR
1. Take the primary AR, fit it onto a beyblade (any beyblade that has a small WD and small BB). Attach that beyblade to the battery-driven beyblade launcher, and turn on the power. The beyblade should be spinning.
2. Wait till its spin is steady and its speed is the highest. Take the file and slowly press it against the side of the AR. The aim is to shave away the remaining plastic portions until you get a perfect circular primary AR.
3. Take 1 cross survival SP and measure the internal diameter of the hole in the SP. Divide that number by 2 to get the radius.
4. Measure (from the centre) that length on the circular primary AR and mark out a dot on the primary AR using correction fluid. Make sure that this dot is precise and small. If the dot is large, re-do this step, but remember to clear the dot first.
5. Now, replace the primary AR into that beyblade used in Step 1 and attach it back to the launcher again. Start the launcher and wait for its spin to be steady and its speed to reach the maximum. Start filing again until you reach a few millimetres away from the dot.
6. Take the AR and try if it fits into the Cross Survival SP. File until you can fit the circular primary AR can fit into the SPs. Take both SPs and file away the 4 blocks of plastic protruding out from each of the SPs.
7. Once it fits, this will be the AR for the UFO beyblade. Polish the parts to make it smooth. Now move on to the WD.
WD
1. If you are using Wide Defense, you will need to file away the block on the WD. If you are using Wide Survival, this step will not be needed.
2. Polish the area filed to make it smooth. Now move on to the SG
SG
1. Take the shaft casing, and file away the top portion until it is level with the 2 plastic parts that extends outwards to hold on to the SG. Polish the shaft casing to make it smooth.
2. Take the Wolborg 2 shaft and flatten the rubber tip using a file or other means. The tip should be completely flat, but still has alot of grip.
3. Assemble the parts as usual (Wolborg 2 shaft with 1 NSK bearing in the shaft casing, followed by the SG metal ring and then the SG casing)
Now, there should be sufficient room to place the other NSK bearing on the top of the shaft casing. This bearing will be held in place by the SG casing. Now move on to the BB.
BB
1. Take the Spirial Change Base, and study it. You should see that there is a trench around the centre. Using a file, slowly shave away the BB from the centre hole (from which the Dranzer S' shaft would come out of when in endurance mode), until you reach the trench mentioned.
2. Now try to insert the SG into the BB. The Wolborg 2 shaft should be able to spin freely. If it does not, continue to file until it is able to spin freely.
3. Use a cutter to snap away the 2 plastic pieces (which are used to adjust the mode of Dranzer S' base)in the BB.
4. Take a V2 series BB and study it. Measure the diameter of the BB and file the Dranzer S' BB until its BB is of the same size as a V2 series BB (use the same method as that when you prepare the AR). Remember to file the blade clips also.
5. Mark out 4 openings, similar to that in a V2 series BB, on Spiral Change Base. Use a cutter to cut out the openings and file appropriately until the Cross Survival SP can be fitted in.
6. Polish all filed areas to make it smooth. Switch the mode of Spiral Change Base to Attack mode to improve its Life-After-Death capabilities. Your UFO beyblade is almost complete.
Assemble the beyblade! The orders are as follows:
1. Bit chip (essential to prevent the NSK bearing from escaping)
2. The circular primary AR
3. Cross Survival SP (modified)
4. WD
5. SG
6. Cross Survival SP (modified)
7. Spiral Change Base (modified)
Your UFO beyblade is complete! When launching, try to launch it in the middle of the stadium. It should stay there and spin strongly, while deflecting all your opponent's attacks. Should it be hit out of balance by a strong attack, the Spiral Change Base should provide it with Life After Death and the beyblade will stand upright again. It is hard to describe its movement, but it is really powerful (but again, illegal).
Try it out and amaze your opponents.
If your opponent also uses this customization but has one that spins in the opposite direction, the beybattle can last up to 10 - 12 minutes (since they will be able to steal spin from each other), provided your bearings are well-tuned.
If you do not understand any portions, please ask and I will try to clarify them for you.
Before you begin, you will need the following beyblade parts:
1 primary AR from any of the ARs (except Zeus' AR) that have a separate free moving layer (like Galeon, Galeon etc)
2 Cross Survival SPs
1 Wide Defense/Wide Survival WD
1 Spiral Change Base
1 Wolborg 2 shaft (Mint/near Mint)
2 NSK well-tuned bearings
1 Right/Left SG casing
1 Wolborg/Wolborg 2/Dranzer S shaft casing
Be sure to have spare parts in case something goes wrong
Equipments needed:
File, Cutter, Plastic Polish, Metal Polish
Optional (but useful):
Battery-driven beyblade launcher
BEFORE YOU BEGIN, BE SURE THAT YOU ARE WILLING TO SACRIFICE YOUR BEYBLADE PARTS!!!
Here are the steps:
AR
1. Take the primary AR, fit it onto a beyblade (any beyblade that has a small WD and small BB). Attach that beyblade to the battery-driven beyblade launcher, and turn on the power. The beyblade should be spinning.
2. Wait till its spin is steady and its speed is the highest. Take the file and slowly press it against the side of the AR. The aim is to shave away the remaining plastic portions until you get a perfect circular primary AR.
3. Take 1 cross survival SP and measure the internal diameter of the hole in the SP. Divide that number by 2 to get the radius.
4. Measure (from the centre) that length on the circular primary AR and mark out a dot on the primary AR using correction fluid. Make sure that this dot is precise and small. If the dot is large, re-do this step, but remember to clear the dot first.
5. Now, replace the primary AR into that beyblade used in Step 1 and attach it back to the launcher again. Start the launcher and wait for its spin to be steady and its speed to reach the maximum. Start filing again until you reach a few millimetres away from the dot.
6. Take the AR and try if it fits into the Cross Survival SP. File until you can fit the circular primary AR can fit into the SPs. Take both SPs and file away the 4 blocks of plastic protruding out from each of the SPs.
7. Once it fits, this will be the AR for the UFO beyblade. Polish the parts to make it smooth. Now move on to the WD.
WD
1. If you are using Wide Defense, you will need to file away the block on the WD. If you are using Wide Survival, this step will not be needed.
2. Polish the area filed to make it smooth. Now move on to the SG
SG
1. Take the shaft casing, and file away the top portion until it is level with the 2 plastic parts that extends outwards to hold on to the SG. Polish the shaft casing to make it smooth.
2. Take the Wolborg 2 shaft and flatten the rubber tip using a file or other means. The tip should be completely flat, but still has alot of grip.
3. Assemble the parts as usual (Wolborg 2 shaft with 1 NSK bearing in the shaft casing, followed by the SG metal ring and then the SG casing)
Now, there should be sufficient room to place the other NSK bearing on the top of the shaft casing. This bearing will be held in place by the SG casing. Now move on to the BB.
BB
1. Take the Spirial Change Base, and study it. You should see that there is a trench around the centre. Using a file, slowly shave away the BB from the centre hole (from which the Dranzer S' shaft would come out of when in endurance mode), until you reach the trench mentioned.
2. Now try to insert the SG into the BB. The Wolborg 2 shaft should be able to spin freely. If it does not, continue to file until it is able to spin freely.
3. Use a cutter to snap away the 2 plastic pieces (which are used to adjust the mode of Dranzer S' base)in the BB.
4. Take a V2 series BB and study it. Measure the diameter of the BB and file the Dranzer S' BB until its BB is of the same size as a V2 series BB (use the same method as that when you prepare the AR). Remember to file the blade clips also.
5. Mark out 4 openings, similar to that in a V2 series BB, on Spiral Change Base. Use a cutter to cut out the openings and file appropriately until the Cross Survival SP can be fitted in.
6. Polish all filed areas to make it smooth. Switch the mode of Spiral Change Base to Attack mode to improve its Life-After-Death capabilities. Your UFO beyblade is almost complete.
Assemble the beyblade! The orders are as follows:
1. Bit chip (essential to prevent the NSK bearing from escaping)
2. The circular primary AR
3. Cross Survival SP (modified)
4. WD
5. SG
6. Cross Survival SP (modified)
7. Spiral Change Base (modified)
Your UFO beyblade is complete! When launching, try to launch it in the middle of the stadium. It should stay there and spin strongly, while deflecting all your opponent's attacks. Should it be hit out of balance by a strong attack, the Spiral Change Base should provide it with Life After Death and the beyblade will stand upright again. It is hard to describe its movement, but it is really powerful (but again, illegal).
Try it out and amaze your opponents.
If your opponent also uses this customization but has one that spins in the opposite direction, the beybattle can last up to 10 - 12 minutes (since they will be able to steal spin from each other), provided your bearings are well-tuned.
If you do not understand any portions, please ask and I will try to clarify them for you.