Eh, I still think the mixing would be illegal- they're different colors and each color, has a different performance. I'm prettier sure the different color bases of SW145/UW145 don't majory, if at all, affect performance.
Beyblade Random Thoughts
![[Image: 9ff5d708-ada9-4d9e-a353-d60f3c2fc6a2_zpsf8dc7f76.jpg]](http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/Bakubey13/media/9ff5d708-ada9-4d9e-a353-d60f3c2fc6a2_zpsf8dc7f76.jpg.html)
(Feb. 23, 2014 1:51 PM)Leone19 Wrote: Eh, I still think the mixing would be illegal- they're different colors and each color, has a different performance. I'm prettier sure the different color bases of SW145/UW145 don't majory, if at all, affect performance.
honestly, I just think its the way the molds were made. besides, an illegal mod is if there was something put in like ball bearings; I just think that all f230s are the same; just different molding casts.
(Feb. 23, 2014 1:51 PM)Leone19 Wrote: Eh, I still think the mixing would be illegal- they're different colors and each color, has a different performance. I'm prettier sure the different color bases of SW145/UW145 don't majory, if at all, affect performance.
I think the switching of casing and other parts of F230 between each other would be fine. As far as I know, it's legal to switch the ring on ED145 with others and from what I've seen, some are more free spinning than others.
The thing with F230 is that, despite the different molds having different performances, they are still, in theory, the same part. Say you had a five-minute Duo and a crappy three-minute mold. If you switcheroo the individual components and get, perhaps, a four-minute time on the same setup, you are significantly affecting performance, but would anyone bat an eye if you did that? No. 4D wheels are not necessarily INTENDED to have the components switched between duplicates of the same part, but it's perfectly fine to do so. I would argue that the same applies for F230; you are simply optimizing your beyblade by choosing parts which, as per normal mold variance and production, may have different attributes. By choosing individual components of F230, you are finding the parts with the best molding or synergy and combining them into a part which, in theory, could have actually come off a production line somewhere. You aren't changing the parts, but rather the combination of those parts, which is entirely within the spirit of Beyblade.
Except that F230 is not meant to be separated. At all. Even ED145 is not supposed to be mixed with other cores, and the only reason it is possible is for the simplicity of its assembly at the factory.
What I was trying to say in the second half of my post was that the individual components of a franken-F230 would still be official, normally manufactured parts. Each individual part can be different, of course, so in switching parts you simply are combining the best parts of two different copies of the same component. Unless the act of disassembling and reassembling the component affects performance, the resulting part after the switch is no different than a freshly minted piece from a factory.
Another example:
Another example:
Spoiler (Click to View)
Point being, as Kai-V said- it's not meant to be taken apart. It really alters performance.
It's not like switching the two L-Drago Frames or the core on two different Duo's.
It's not like switching the two L-Drago Frames or the core on two different Duo's.
If taking it apart inherently affects the performance, then, sure disassembly would be illegal. If it didn't, though, then that's where my argument is. I have no gripe if the disassembly is the issue.
Yes, you are technically not supposed to dissassemble it, just like M145 should not be touched.
They have used Triwing screws in F
and F
, which are generally what companies wishing to prevent disassembly use to do so, as such screwdrivers are not common household items (though I imagine ebay would be able to provide some cheaply). If they really wanted to prevent disassembly, I really do think they'd have done that with something like F230. IMO unless there is an explicit "no disassembly" clause in their rules, then really we've no reason to have one in ours, hence me asking that.
Anyway, on a lighter note, wow, those Zero-G Stadiums sure got crazier than I thought: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Beyblade-...729&_uhb=1
and F, which are generally what companies wishing to prevent disassembly use to do so, as such screwdrivers are not common household items (though I imagine ebay would be able to provide some cheaply). If they really wanted to prevent disassembly, I really do think they'd have done that with something like F230. IMO unless there is an explicit "no disassembly" clause in their rules, then really we've no reason to have one in ours, hence me asking that.Anyway, on a lighter note, wow, those Zero-G Stadiums sure got crazier than I thought: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Beyblade-...729&_uhb=1
![[Image: UwZsp7A.png]](https://i.imgur.com/UwZsp7A.png)
(Feb. 24, 2014 7:11 PM)th!nk Wrote: They have used Triwing screws in FROFL XD, I wonder if its a typo or wrong pics
Anyway, on a lighter note, wow, those Zero-G Stadiums sure got crazier than I thought: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Beyblade-...729&_uhb=1
![[Image: f759d58.gif]](https://i.imgsafe.org/f759d58.gif)
![[Image: rcFJUxo.png]](https://i.imgur.com/rcFJUxo.png)
(Feb. 23, 2014 7:48 PM)Kai-V Wrote: Except that F230 is not meant to be separated. At all. Even ED145 is not supposed to be mixed with other cores, and the only reason it is possible is for the simplicity of its assembly at the factory.
(Feb. 23, 2014 9:07 PM)Kai-V Wrote: Yes, you are technically not supposed to dissassemble it, just like M145 should not be touched.
So because they are assembled with screws, then none of them should be disassembled? Not even for cleaning? Would this apply to launchers, as well?
![[Image: vwa_copy3_by_elcesplooshe_daejy2u-fullvi...Za8ANFHK5M]](https://images-wixmp-ed30a86b8c4ca887773594c2.wixmp.com/f/0779b042-834a-4ac6-9292-fab88a9af9cb/daejy2u-70e51d94-acbe-4593-ad69-5434d834b672.jpg/v1/fill/w_1024,h_317,q_75,strp/vwa_copy3_by_elcesplooshe_daejy2u-fullview.jpg?token=eyJ0eXAiOiJKV1QiLCJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJzdWIiOiJ1cm46YXBwOjdlMGQxODg5ODIyNjQzNzNhNWYwZDQxNWVhMGQyNmUwIiwiaXNzIjoidXJuOmFwcDo3ZTBkMTg4OTgyMjY0MzczYTVmMGQ0MTVlYTBkMjZlMCIsIm9iaiI6W1t7ImhlaWdodCI6Ijw9MzE3IiwicGF0aCI6IlwvZlwvMDc3OWIwNDItODM0YS00YWM2LTkyOTItZmFiODhhOWFmOWNiXC9kYWVqeTJ1LTcwZTUxZDk0LWFjYmUtNDU5My1hZDY5LTU0MzRkODM0YjY3Mi5qcGciLCJ3aWR0aCI6Ijw9MTAyNCJ9XV0sImF1ZCI6WyJ1cm46c2VydmljZTppbWFnZS5vcGVyYXRpb25zIl19.GJIQK2sXAJm5ScpS3pSVJ8KrA6Ru9qtE4Za8ANFHK5M)
Launchers are a special exception.
I still stand by my opinion that they've used Triwing screws in the past and would do so again if it were a real problem.
I still stand by my opinion that they've used Triwing screws in the past and would do so again if it were a real problem.
don't mean to cut in your guys discussion but I have a serious problem with one of my blades. I was doing a test run with a new bey' -its not new now I had for a good while- the test run was Galaxy Pegasus vs Ultimate Gravity destroyer. the spin track on Galaxy was destroyed as a result. Gravity hit it so hard that when I picked it up the spin track just crumbled
Hey so if a part that one can normally change is being stubborn, can we take the bey apart in order to change the mode? My CH120 is a tad stiff and I wanted to know if that'd be okay.
(Feb. 28, 2014 10:25 AM)Amoto Wrote: don't mean to cut in your guys discussion but I have a serious problem with one of my blades. I was doing a test run with a new bey' -its not new now I had for a good while- the test run was Galaxy Pegasus vs Ultimate Gravity destroyer. the spin track on Galaxy was destroyed as a result. Gravity hit it so hard that when I picked it up the spin track just crumbledI'm not sure what you want us to do. If it's broken, it can't be used.
(Feb. 28, 2014 10:25 AM)Amoto Wrote: don't mean to cut in your guys discussion but I have a serious problem with one of my blades. I was doing a test run with a new bey' -its not new now I had for a good while- the test run was Galaxy Pegasus vs Ultimate Gravity destroyer. the spin track on Galaxy was destroyed as a result. Gravity hit it so hard that when I picked it up the spin track just crumbled
Are you certain the Beyblade is real and not made by a fake company ? In any case, if you used uncustomized Beyblades, I am not really certain how Gravity, at 145, even got below Galaxy which was at 105. As Dual mentioned though, we cannot do anything about it unforttunately.
(Feb. 28, 2014 2:07 PM)DrPepsidew Wrote: Hey so if a part that one can normally change is being stubborn, can we take the bey apart in order to change the mode? My CH120 is a tad stiff and I wanted to know if that'd be okay.
I would be inclined to say that no, the rule still applies. Personally, Spinster messed up my TH170 so it is more difficult to change the modes, but even then, it is much easier to do when it is part of a combination and that I can just pull on a Bottom instead of the core.
I know what he's talking about with CH120 though- you can't get your nails under the tip to get any grip on it, basically. Much more common when the threading hole has cracked a bit (which starts the first time you screw a facebolt in, maybe third if you're reaally careful), though it does offer a lot more security w/ regards to staying in 145-mode. It's also a ticking time bomb until it stops sitting straight (starts with Metal System wheels, maybe chrome wheels too, and red/black metal faces/MF-2's that are a bit loose, gets worse until it's completely unavoidable, if you continue using it to that point/the inner part doesn't split in half). Anyway, loosening the facebolt without disassembling the entire combo is generally enough to allow it to move - does that change matters any?
Also fwiw CH120 cracks so easily that odds are if one's being used at a tournament, it's at least cracked a little. Not a well designed part, tbh.
Out of curiosity, what exactly did he do to your TH170 to make that happen?
Also fwiw CH120 cracks so easily that odds are if one's being used at a tournament, it's at least cracked a little. Not a well designed part, tbh.
Out of curiosity, what exactly did he do to your TH170 to make that happen?
Spinster is just too strong and he did not know how to change the heights, hah.
Hm, I actually think I remember reading about that...
Anyway, I finally figured out where the extra weight in the RB7 version of Vulcan comes from - the tail ends of the wall parts are thicker (on the outer edge) on the RB7 one - really can't believe I only just spotted it now to be honest. I'll try to get pictures tomorrow, as it's 2AM now and I should get some sleep, but if I get time I might try to do some comparatives, in case that's related to the fact Vulcan seems to be inferior to Screw now (as someone who liked screw, I still used to think it was inferior to vulcan so it puzzles me a bit).
Anyway, I finally figured out where the extra weight in the RB7 version of Vulcan comes from - the tail ends of the wall parts are thicker (on the outer edge) on the RB7 one - really can't believe I only just spotted it now to be honest. I'll try to get pictures tomorrow, as it's 2AM now and I should get some sleep, but if I get time I might try to do some comparatives, in case that's related to the fact Vulcan seems to be inferior to Screw now (as someone who liked screw, I still used to think it was inferior to vulcan so it puzzles me a bit).
@ magically exploding W105:
I've found that the Hasbro Galaxy Pegasus's W105 has some kind of molding issue (idk what exactly) that makes it more brittle than normal; between me and a few of my friends, we have something like a dozen W105s that have snapped from normal use. And I don't mean wings falling off- I mean the whole thing gets snapped in half. As far as I know, it's not due to over-tightening or anything; just the plastic must have some kind of imperfection which makes it more susceptible to breakage.
I've found that the Hasbro Galaxy Pegasus's W105 has some kind of molding issue (idk what exactly) that makes it more brittle than normal; between me and a few of my friends, we have something like a dozen W105s that have snapped from normal use. And I don't mean wings falling off- I mean the whole thing gets snapped in half. As far as I know, it's not due to over-tightening or anything; just the plastic must have some kind of imperfection which makes it more susceptible to breakage.
thats probably what happened. anyway. I can only get hasbro though I would like to Takara Tomy. but anyway. what shogun steel bey do you guys suggest? I was thinking Dragoon or Samurai Pegasus.
.
(Feb. 28, 2014 3:13 PM)Kai-V Wrote: Are you certain the Beyblade is real and not made by a fake company ? In any case, if you used uncustomized Beyblades, I am not really certain how Gravity, at 145, even got below Galaxy which was at 105. As Dual mentioned though, we cannot do anything about it unforttunately.
It might have been because of the way Gravity is shaped, and the fact that R2F is one of the tall tips and WD is a short one. From what I've noticed Short/Tall and Tall/Short balance out pretty equally height wise, unless you're using 85 or 90.
That's still way too low for Gravity to make track contact, however, a hard hit on a combination with grip means the parts must absorb the force rather than it being dispersed through movement which could put force on the track - can't see it happening if Gravity was on WD though.
Anyway back to the vulcan thing, here's the comparative picture: http://i.imgur.com/qaKG0ni.png
The difference is the thickness of the two nearest points on the wheels - the tail of each wall. This isn't due to wear, in fact that's one of the only parts on my original vulcan that still has most of its paint intact.
The weight difference is significant:
Vulcan 33.23g RB7 Unpainted Ver.
Vulcan 33.07g RB7 Unpainted Ver.
Vulcan 31.98g BBP-01 Black Version, heavily used
Performance wise, I don't see a huge difference - while I was wondering if the extra metal was obstructing contact points that doesn't seem to be the case, though I think I'll try and do some same-height tests to make sure (basically, a matchup where the 'wing' parts make contact side-on). From what I've seen so far, the heavier one seemed to have fewer recoil issues against Libra without any power difference but it was very close and I've not done extensive testing (though I do wonder if results would be consistent enough to actually show a real difference given vulcan's proclivities).
Once I have done said testing, I'm happy to edit the BeyWiki article appropriately (noticed a little piece of detritus on my black vulcan there, so I'll retake them tomorrow if I can get the right amount of light (always an issue for me)), though the weight difference between mine and the one listed in the article (which was from when the BBP-01 Vulcan was the only Vulcan) is something I'll have to look into - just to find the source of that weight etc to see if it's reliable.
Anyway back to the vulcan thing, here's the comparative picture: http://i.imgur.com/qaKG0ni.png
The difference is the thickness of the two nearest points on the wheels - the tail of each wall. This isn't due to wear, in fact that's one of the only parts on my original vulcan that still has most of its paint intact.
The weight difference is significant:
Vulcan 33.23g RB7 Unpainted Ver.
Vulcan 33.07g RB7 Unpainted Ver.
Vulcan 31.98g BBP-01 Black Version, heavily used
Performance wise, I don't see a huge difference - while I was wondering if the extra metal was obstructing contact points that doesn't seem to be the case, though I think I'll try and do some same-height tests to make sure (basically, a matchup where the 'wing' parts make contact side-on). From what I've seen so far, the heavier one seemed to have fewer recoil issues against Libra without any power difference but it was very close and I've not done extensive testing (though I do wonder if results would be consistent enough to actually show a real difference given vulcan's proclivities).
Once I have done said testing, I'm happy to edit the BeyWiki article appropriately (noticed a little piece of detritus on my black vulcan there, so I'll retake them tomorrow if I can get the right amount of light (always an issue for me)), though the weight difference between mine and the one listed in the article (which was from when the BBP-01 Vulcan was the only Vulcan) is something I'll have to look into - just to find the source of that weight etc to see if it's reliable.