[Plastics] :: Q&A Thread

(Oct. 22, 2015  3:13 PM)Dracomageat Wrote:
(Oct. 22, 2015  4:44 AM)xVaretyr Wrote: Will it help if I use a magnecore along with a magne WD? I don't know what will happen. Will they attract or repel each other? I've got spare magnecores and a magne WD from my Dragoon V2.

As for the bearing Gyros, this is all I've been able to find apart from the fact that each one came with a super OP weight disk that is banned from tournament play and isn't hard to find fakes of on google images.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPto3dwJ37Y

Um there are posts on it and th!nk definitely talked about it in reference to his findings with his testings.... He gives a summary on his tier list of why it wasn't included in the actual list.
The tiny ones are a takara product I think just not the real beyblades. The top ones are pokemon spinning tops. The green one and pinkish one in the corner is fake and so is the big electronic one. The ones in the middle are real but there's nothing amazing in there (although the red one in the middle is the takara version which is kinda rare).
(Oct. 25, 2015  8:16 AM)Ultra Wrote: The tiny ones are a takara product I think just not the real beyblades. The top ones are pokemon spinning tops. The green one and pinkish one in the corner is fake and so is the big electronic one. The ones in the middle are real but there's nothing amazing in there (although the red one in the middle is the takara version which is kinda rare).

Thanks Ultra, can you help me identify the "real ones"?
I think he meant the names.
Upper row (left to right):
Master Dragoon, Seaborg 2, Cyber Dragoon, Flash Leopard.
Below (left to right):
Polta, Metal Dranzer, Seaborg, Dragoon V.

But be careful, some bases don´t match.
Super thank you Ultra and Stoney! Smile

Stoney, which of them have bases that don't match? I'm not really familiar with all. I'm thinking Seaborg2, Flash Leopard, Seaborg, and Dragoon V don't. Am I right and did I miss more?
Polta and Metal Dranzer haven't. The rest is pretty mixed up, FL and Master Dragoon have the wrong bit chips and the SG's of almost every beyblade are either completely different or match to the wrong bases. I really wouldn't recommend purchasing this lot...
You're very welcome. Wink
Uh i'd just like to point out that one of them has a red weight disk that seems to be wide survivor which is worth like $20 and quite rare.
The last red wide survivor I saw was in Oki's shop and it went for 800 yen. New.
Yes but generally when people sell them they sell for around $20. They always come from YJA lots and people other than oki have to pay middleman and double postage fees. Also that was the price I used to sell them for and had no problem selling it.
I know that Hasbro's Twin Horn is not as good as Takara's for Zombie, because of the alternate design to use it with a SAR. But because of that I have a few questions:
  • Is it worth spending up to $80 to get the Takara mold?
  • Is it necessary to buy Dragon Saucer SAR to use it with Twin Horn or is War Lion SAR good enough?
  • Would you recommend using a worn Bearing SG on a Twin Horn - SAR customization to increase its defense properties?
If you're not going to use it in a tournament I don't see any real requirement to get one unless you really want it. As for the others questions th!nk was probably the only one who knew such things. Unless someone has them and has played around with them a lot.
(Oct. 27, 2015  10:41 PM)DrigerGatling Wrote: I know that Hasbro's Twin Horn is not as good as Takara's for Zombie, because of the alternate design to use it with a SAR. But because of that I have a few questions:
  • Is it worth spending up to $80 to get the Takara mold?
  • Is it necessary to buy Dragon Saucer SAR to use it with Twin Horn or is War Lion SAR good enough?
  • Would you recommend using a worn Bearing SG on a Twin Horn - SAR customization to increase its defense properties?

Wait, are you sure that Hasbro's Twin Horn is worse than Takara's? I thought the ability to take a S-AR was beneficial to Zombie customs, unless it messes with Twin Horn's weight distribution or something.

As for the rest, this is only speculation because I don't own a Twin Horn, but my guess would be that Dragon Saucer S-AR is just the best option, and other Zombie-appropriate S-ARs (such as War Lion) could be subbed in.

For wearing your SG Bearing Ver. 2 it's really up to your decision. More wear will increase Defense against Attack types but less wear will allow it to keep its Endurance and maybe allow you to win mirror matches against other Zombies. Given how much easier/cheaper it is to acquire Driger G and Seaborg than the parts for a Top-Tier Zombie, and that Circle Survivor will beat you most of the time either way, it may be more beneficial to wear it down depending on how invested in Plastics your opponents are.
Sparkling attacker spin thing is a Sub-AR?


It seen like it would provide a good but of weight and is free spinning, why isn't it good?

Also, the "Main AR", is like the smallest thing ever, why isn't it used in compact customs?
Because it's incompatible with all the other Beyblades with S-ARs.
It was made before Galeon; and not intended to be compatible with anything else, so.
Wow, thats messed up.

Thanks Neo.
I'm not sure about the differences of Twin Horn, just read about it. I did some battles with Twin Horn & War Lion SAR and it was really good, but as I do not have the Takara version so I can't compare it. If I get my hands on some more parts I will do further testing.
Thank you for the quick answer, Wombat Smile
This question has been asked hundreds of times, but I forget the answer.

Is there any difference in sticker quality between the 3 big toy makers? All the plastics i've opened are really low quality stickers, and this is from all 3 companies.

Yet, I get a lot and the stickers are perfect, plus the ones that got stickers years ago i've seen, the stickers are frayed-like at the edges but are on there securely.
Again, Sono Kong...
Stickers are really bad. Like; only a little above TT Hongli quality.
I've had them fall off really easily after a few spins.

Stick! With! Takara!
(Or the occasional hasbro lol)
I got an NIB WB4 (And a hasbro roller defensive which was even worse), which the stickers came off super easy. Maybe the humidity in my bedroom?


Do I wait for them to dry before battle?
Actually Hasbro's sticker quality is the best of all three. Almost all of my Hasbro beyblades didn't lose their stickers at all in several years of battling, whereas quite a few Takara ones did. Sonokong's did almost all peel off quickly.

The only explanation for your problem I can imagine are bad conditions in storage, which can ruin even the best NIB stickers.
My Takara Rock Bison stickers stick very well but it probably depending on the seller. For example, my Takara Tomy Saramanda from a certain seller made my stickers bey bad and the MSF was loose and duller than usual, and the box seemed moister. On the other hand, a different seller who sold me Goriem didn't have these problems.

Weirdly though my Rock Bison box seems a little beat up but not too much.