Make yourself some basic walls with taped sheets of paper on them. Light reflects on the white paper and dims the shadows. Raise your exposure to compensate for the large amount of white, and always use the custom White Balance setting (adjust it too, of course).
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Compact Launchers (Click to View)

Compact Launcher (Right)
[Image: ZeroG_CompactL.jpg]

Compact Launcher (Left)
[Image: ZeroG_CompactL_L.jpg]

Zero-G Launcher Grip (Click to View)

[Image: ZeroG_LGripTop.jpg]

[Image: ZeroG_LGripBottom.jpg]

[Image: ZeroG_LGripHead.jpg]

[Image: ZeroG_LGripHandle.jpg]

The Zero-G Launcher Grip is the third version of Metal Fight Beyblade Grips. It is composed of two parts: Handle and Head.

The handle is simply a redesign of the previous versions’ handles. The most apparent change is the replacement of the Grip’s name engraved on the handle to multiple air vents. The tool has also been notched, similar to a gear. The changes being aesthetic, it remains compatible with any previously released accessories.

The head features a completely new design. A lock switch at the center allows for Compact Launchers to be held in place beneath it, making these launchers, and therefore any previous versions of Light Launchers or Beylaunchers incompatible with this part. The head also features four slots that can be used for either the handle or other accessories. However, its most notable feature is that one slot has no direction locks of any kind, meaning the handle (preferably) can be slid in from any direction, thus making it the first Grip since the HMS Neo Customize Grip to allow for proper left-handed, Ripcord/Winder launching.

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Dark Knight Dragooon LW160BSF
Dragooon: 30.90 grams
Dark Knight: 3.87 grams
Left Wing 160: 2.36 grams
Blade Semi-Flat: 1.19 grams

The Crystal Wheel pictures are what they are, really...

Something worth noting (BSF's Semi-Flat is larger than SF's): (Click to View)

[Image: DarkKnightDragooon_0000_Layer20.jpg]

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I'll also re-take, hopefully soon, the pictures in my previous set (Draciel G, Gaia Dragoon G and Tornado Attack). The light bulb I normally used shattered, and the one I took until I could get a replacement was less than adequate. And while many of you might not have noticed, the color discrepancies really do irk me.

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Beywiki French Portal -- Portail français de l'encyclopédie Beywiki
Compatibility Issues with the Burst System Between Takara-Tomy and Hasbro
My Guide to Beywiki Photography |  White Box #3 (shoe box version)
Dranzer F / Black Dranzer vector Bitchips (PM for larger versions)

You can go ahead and upload all those photographs on Beywiki, especially if there is a place to add them right now.


It is not really on-topic, but here are some minor edits :

The Zero-G Launcher Grip is the third version of Metal Fight Beyblade Grips. It is composed of two parts: a handle and a head.

The handle is simply a redesign of the previous versions’ handles. The most apparent change is the replacement of the Grip's name engraved on the handle to multiple air vents. The Tool has also been notched, similar to a gear. The changes being aesthetic, it remains compatible with any previously released accessories.

The head features a completely new design. A lock switch at the top, in the center, allows for Compact Launchers to be held in place beneath it, making any previous versions of Light Launchers or Beylaunchers incompatible with this part. However, future Zero-G Launchers compensate for this feature by being equipped with slots that can be attached directly on the Zero-G Launcher Grip's handle. The head also features four slots that can be used for either the handle or other accessories. However, its most notable characteristic is that one slot has no direction locks of any kind at its edges, meaning that the handle (preferably) can be slid in from any direction, thus making it the first Grip since the HMS Neo Customize Grip to allow for proper left-handed, Winder launching.

Overall : Just like most Launcher Grips, this item's purchase depends entirely on the Blader's comfort with their current setup. With Zero-G Stadiums using Stadium Covers, the use of a Grip can actually be detrimental because there isn't a lot of room to hold it and launch comfortably anyway. As such, it might be preferable to use the gun-like handle that is designed into most Zero-G Launchers, like the Zero-G Light Launcher and the Zero-G Launcher.

Big Bang Pegasis F

http://s1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg61...20Pegasis/

I shot top views and side views in all 4 modes and the Big Bang wheel in all 4 modes. I only took one bottom view picture of the bey, however, I can take bottom views of the bey in all modes if needed. I also included every part separately.

If you look at other Beywiki photographs, they must all be taken on a white background ...

If you look at other Beywiki photographs, they must all be taken on a white background ...

I took pictures on a white background

Here they are: http://s1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg61...20Pegasis/

If any additional pictures of the bey are needed, just let me know.

They seem very yellow, like you just lightened the first set of pictures.

They seem very yellow, like you just lightened the first set of pictures.

What should I do so that the pictures are not very yellow?

Are you using artificial lighting? And as a side note, some of your pictures have something in the back.

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Are you using artificial lighting? And as a side note, some of your pictures have something in the back.

I'm not using artificial lighting, however, I think that I should take the pictures in a better lit room. By the way, about those things in the back, those are some of the beys' parts.

Better pictures of the bey

http://s1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg61...20Pegasis/

What does everyone think of these pictures?

Those are definitely better. The other ones looked faded.

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Those are definitely better. The other ones looked faded.

Thank you, now I just need Kai-V's approval to upload these pics to beywiki.

Are you certain that you are using a white surface underneath ... ?

Are you certain that you are using a white surface underneath ... ?

Yes I am, I am using a sheet of black paper as the white surface.

I couldn't find any photo's of Duo Uranus.

Spoiler (Click to View)

Top View
[Image: IMG_5929.jpg]


Side View
[Image: IMG_5930.jpg]


Bottom View
[Image: IMG_5931.jpg]


Face
[Image: IMG_5933.jpg]


CW
[Image: IMG_5934.jpg]


Metal Wheel
[Image: IMG_5935.jpg]
[Image: IMG_5936.jpg]


Metal Frame
[Image: IMG_5937.jpg]
[Image: IMG_5942.jpg]


Core
[Image: IMG_5943.jpg]
[Image: IMG_5944.jpg]


230
[Image: IMG_5945.jpg]
[Image: IMG_5946.jpg]


WD
[Image: IMG_5947.jpg]

Are these "BeyWiki quality"?

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Ickle Thinks - A Beyblade blog where I test
Most recent post : August 23 - Taking a Beating

On the Internet you can be anything you want. It's strange that so many people choose to be stupid.

The depth of field is a bit small on a couple of them, mainly the track and the wheel shots, but the lighting and quality looks excellent to me. Helluvalot better than I can do.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Yes, try just having less blur.

Had some spare time, so decided to take a few pictures for Plastic Beyblades ..

Draciel S:

Spoiler (Click to View)

Gabriel: (White, Secret Prize)

Spoiler (Click to View)

Voltaic Ape:

Spoiler (Click to View)

Dranzer MS Hasbro RC:

Spoiler (Click to View)

The RC, I just thought that it would be nice to add this to the article, since there are mold variations.. But that's just me.

Now, the question is: Are the photos upto BeyWiki's standards/are they usable? If not, it would be nice to give me some advice to improve on.

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Check out my YouTube Channel! BlackOutCannon 
New videos every week.

There are a few things I would see improved, but overall, the answer is yes, quite so.

The first thing that strikes me is the unnusual sharpness of your pictures, as if you had applied a photoshop "sharpen" filter.

The second would be the definition. The relief on Mountain Hammer seems a little shallow, but that could be the AR itself, as I don't own it. Gabriel's edges also somewhat blend in the background slightly.

Again, despite the criticism, there are much worse pictures on Beywiki, and yours are quite good.

----------------

Icke, if you ever re-take your pictures, be mindful of your frame, some parts are cropped out of it. Take your pictures a little farther away or zoom out, and it should take care of your framing and depth of field issues.

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Beywiki French Portal -- Portail français de l'encyclopédie Beywiki
Compatibility Issues with the Burst System Between Takara-Tomy and Hasbro
My Guide to Beywiki Photography |  White Box #3 (shoe box version)
Dranzer F / Black Dranzer vector Bitchips (PM for larger versions)

Hmm, these pictures were taken right off the camera; no editing whatsoever.

What do you mean as in the "relief" of Mountain Hammer?

Aha, look at Seaborg 2s one. hehe.

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Check out my YouTube Channel! BlackOutCannon 
New videos every week.

By relief, he's referring to the actual structure of Mountain Hammer. That is, the protrusions, grooves, edges, ridges, and all other details of an AR.

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Team IB Revolutions

Thanks to N0body for the avatar and Synth for the signature!

Cheers Jan!

That's just the structure of it, Nocto.

EDIT: If it matters, the height of it is approx. 0.9cm.

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Check out my YouTube Channel! BlackOutCannon 
New videos every week.

http://imageshack.us/g/833/1000637i.jpg/ Here are some pictures, I thought they were abit better some of them when I took them. Soem of them aren't for the wiki like the wyborg and slash riger, but Im gonna put them on ebay.

Hi I think there a few pictures here that can be used, but the timestamp issue is still there- is there a technique that can get rid of it- don't have the picture anymore on my computer still though?

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Look at this (Click to View)

Thanks Angry Face :D
Plastics request thread, request your combo ||
What to Buy in Plastics || Plastic Parts Discussion|| Competative Heavy Metal System Combos|| HMS Parts Disscusion

Hi I think there a few pictures here that can be used, but the timestamp issue is still there- is there a technique that can get rid of it- don't have the picture anymore on my computer still though?

Some are alright, but they are all quite dark and they have a lot of shadow. It would be easy to remove the timestamp in most of them, but lightening them manually would be bad.

Not a recolor or even a missing picture, but as I said previously, I'm not happy at all with the current jiraiya MS pictures.

Got around to cropping and resizing the other set of Jiraiya MS photos (that were taken indoors, rather than the outdoors ones). They're a bit dark/blue-ish IMO but I couldn't really fix that easily without making a couple (mainly the CWD metal part pics) look inconsistent with the rest, so I'm posting them in case they're fine without editing.

Album here: http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b267/A...%20Photos/

The AR underside shot has some dust on it but it was the only one I took at the time, and I couldn't get a good shot of it today at all. Did take a couple of shots I was missing today (whole bey side on/upside down), and the lighting was pretty similar which was nice.
I also can't retake the stickerless emblem picture which is a little poorly focussed IMO, seeing as I have the sticker on mine now (and most of the shots can't be redone nicely as I've used my Jiraiya MS a fair bit now).

Need to check if I have any of the recolors we're missing, but I don't have many recolors.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List