A couple of people have mentioned it, but not enough to call it a solid basis, as far as I am aware.

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Some manner of Octopus.

Not necessarily. It could just be a non agressive one so wearing it down may not do much if anything.

i removed my storm pegasus rubber it is always going out of the stadium what should i do

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the survivor[/i]

From what i have heard, it is likely that the Sonokong B: D uses an improved mold as compared to the TT one, which would explain why the issue doesnt appear to be an issue in the SK version of the part.

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Not necessarily. It could just be a non agressive one so wearing it down may not do much if anything.

i removed my storm pegasus rubber it is always going out of the stadium what should i do

WHF is something I experemented with a long time ago. Wide Hole Flat is what I named RF after the rubber is removed. The process not only damages the tip itself, but the result leads to poor preformance. It is uncontrollable, and has almost zero stamina. It is basicly and utterly useless. I only removed my rubber because it was at the end of its life. I assume you did it for the same reason?

Just out of curiousity, what bey is pictured in your avatar?

Not necessarily. It could just be a non agressive one so wearing it down may not do much if anything.

i removed my storm pegasus rubber it is always going out of the stadium what should i do

...put it back on?

Don't quote several-month-old-posts that aren't relevant to your post.

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Some manner of Octopus.

When the rubber is removed, chances are you cannot put it back in. The removal process generaly deforms it and damages it. And it doesnt just fall out by accident like a pencil eraser, it has to be forcibly removed from the tip.

Ahh I see Leon, hm, thanks.

Btw that's Phantom Orion pic ;p

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Strive for greatness.

Not necessarily. It could just be a non agressive one so wearing it down may not do much if anything.

cs does'nt get exhausted fast but rf does is cs made of special kind of rubber

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the survivor[/i]

No all rubber tips are the same material. CS only lasts longer because of the smaller surface area compared to RF.

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Quick question, are hasbro Wyborg and blue recolor Dranzer F any good competitively?

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^That, and because CS is coated with plastic, which means there is less rubber making contact with the stadium floor. Without that coat, it would basicly be RS. It is interesting, as CS came before RS...

Beywiki has articles on both of them correct? If I remember correctly, the Dranzer F AR was usefull, but the base is basicly carp because it never stays in one mode...I had a wyborg, but I dont rememebr much about it. From what i rememebr, it wasnt to good of a bey. Does anyone remember how Wyborg preformed?

Did you ever hear the phrase "It sucks harder than Wyborg."? It's said for a reason.

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"In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face, is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. The new needs friends. Last night, I experienced something new: an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto, "Anyone can cook." But I realize, only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist; but a great artist can come from anywhere."

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No, because i played with Bumpking XD

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Ahh I see Leon, hm, thanks.

Btw that's Phantom Orion pic ;p

No problem =D

AH! *Facepalm! How did i not see that!?

I was looking at some old Beyblade scans. The instructions for Dragoon V point out and describe the "bumps" on 10 wide in the lower left corner. Can someone translate that bit or know what it's trying to say? I never thought that TT put the bumps on the WD for a reason.

Your link does not work. It just keeps refreshing and nothing pops up.

Works for me.

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How do I still have 17th most posts here...?

There we go! I had to click the blue link that said "Impacient" for it to appear.

Anyway, I always assumed they acted as extra reinforcement points, but I am sure i am wrong about that. Sadly, i dont read or speak japanese so i canot help you =( Now I am curious as to why the bumps are there...

^That, and because CS is coated with plastic, which means there is less rubber making contact with the stadium floor. Without that coat, it would basicly be RS. It is interesting, as CS came before RS...

Hm, CS is coated with rubber, not coated with plastic.

Is there a proper way to use the Light Launcher V2? Everytime I use it with the Hell Kerbecs it came with, there is always this loud grinding noise when I rip it normally. I did straighten the winder and checked if there was something wrong with the prong system, and there was none. Any idea what is wrong with mine? Please don't tell me to just buy a new Light Launcher 2 or tell me to just use a String Launcher, I feel like I could break the string in the launcher and I avoid using it. The Light Launchers just feel more durable and heavy duty.

Some LL2's are just like that when they were made. Buy a new one.

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Some LL2's are just like that when they were made. Buy a new one.

I already have two and both have the same problem

I doubt you're going to break the String Launcher as easily as you suspect, and it will vastly outperform any ripcord launcher you get if you're not using them right.

You may be pulling at an angle. You need to draw the winder out completely straight for maximum RPM/minimum gear grinding.

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Some manner of Octopus.

Some LL2's are just like that when they were made. Buy a new one.

That was uncalled for. He was clearly seeking assistance and asked specifically not to be told to buy a new LL2.

You however, go right ahead and tell him to buy a new LL2. This means you either:

A) Didn't read his post before responding - which could get you warned, or
B) Did read his post, but decided to be mean just for the heck of it - which should definitely get you warned.

Please tell us which of the two options above is correct.

I doubt you're going to break the String Launcher as easily as you suspect, and it will vastly outperform any ripcord launcher you get if you're not using them right.

You may be pulling at an angle. You need to draw the winder out completely straight for maximum RPM/minimum gear grinding.

I blazed through 5 String Launchers already (3 Hasbro and 2 TT) and I am currently using my 6th. the string always broke on mine. I do pull the winder straight but i get a grinding noise, i tried pulling the winder in a different manner and still the gears grind. This is my second LL2, maybe i'm pulling them to hard

If you're breaking the strings and grinding on straight launches, you are most definitely pulling far harder than necessary.

We have fully grown adults who do not break their Beylauncher strings, despite more-than-adequate launch force.

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Some manner of Octopus.

It might be a question of letting the strings go at the end of the pull. There's a bit of an art to pulling at your max and yet having the softness of touch to let go when you feel the resistance at the end of the string.

Do you have launcher rubbers? I find that if I pull by pinching the launcher rubber instead of hooking my fingers around the handle it is easier to let the handle slip out of my hand at the end of the pull.

it is pretty much normal. try lubricating you launcher(not that much)
it is legal to do it if you ask

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