[Answered]  Is it okay if you just click your launcher once to lock the beyblade on?

It does not matter if you lock it or not
DEF DON'T DO IT!!!!
It ruins the gears on ur launchers and makes them lose power
As K1D said I'd recomend you not doing it will slowley wear out the gears inside damaging the laucher
only do it if your string launcher is already somewhat broken
This is really good info to know. I click my launchers so much!
(Jul. 15, 2018  11:45 PM)brandbrick Wrote: Thanks, so should I just put it on?

put it on and lightly twist until you feel resistance

the problem is, over time, that first point of resistance will diminish and a bey mounted at that twist point will launch weakly (this means your launcher is “somewhat broken”)

you can work around this by continuing to lightly twist (clicking) until you feel stronger resistance
I frequently do 3 clicks on my ........
(Jul. 16, 2018  12:19 AM)RedPanda2 Wrote:
(Jul. 15, 2018  11:45 PM)brandbrick Wrote: Thanks, so should I just put it on?

put it on and lightly twist until you feel resistance

the problem is, over time, that first point of resistance will diminish and a bey mounted at that twist point will launch weakly (this means your launcher is “somewhat broken”)

you can work around this by continuing to lightly twist (clicking) until you feel stronger resistance

There is now a proper fix for the gear skipping, on another post by Godly Requiem he worked out that you can swap out the worn plastic white bit that looks like an 8 that is within the circular prong bit.  But you need to take it from another Takara Tomy launcher you don’t need.  Or if you are not entering competitions, superglue the circular nubs on the 8 shape so there is no more skipping even with heavy Cho Z beys.
(Jul. 15, 2018  10:32 PM)RedPanda2 Wrote: only do it if your string launcher is already somewhat broken


I just used 2 bits of folded paper (no need superglue or replacement 8 shaped thing) to stop the 2 nubs inside the prongs from slipping.  See Godly Requiem’s thread on fixing the B-88.  This area within the moving circular prong part of the B-88 is what causes the clicking & gear skipping, not any internal gears.  You do not need to take out the main casing, only unscrew the circular prong casing & pull out the circular prong bit & jam the paper between the nubs of the plastic white 8 shaped thing & any of the grooves in the black circular prong that the nubs slide (click) against.  Full power with heavy beys now!!
(Jul. 20, 2018  8:41 AM)TCBlading Wrote:
(Jul. 16, 2018  12:19 AM)RedPanda2 Wrote: put it on and lightly twist until you feel resistance

the problem is, over time, that first point of resistance will diminish and a bey mounted at that twist point will launch weakly (this means your launcher is “somewhat broken”)

you can work around this by continuing to lightly twist (clicking) until you feel stronger resistance

There is now a proper fix for the gear skipping, on another post by Godly Requiem he worked out that you can swap out the worn plastic white bit that looks like an 8 that is within the circular prong bit.  But you need to take it from another Takara Tomy launcher you don’t need.  Or if you are not entering competitions, superglue the circular nubs on the 8 shape so there is no more skipping even with heavy Cho Z beys.

if you want to call that a proper fix, that is a bit of stretch.

the prong assembly is not worth messing with, imo.  many things would have to go perfectly to have any hope of retaining normal balance while launching. 

i’m happy to realign a slipped gear or retrack a slipped string, but caveman brain surgery on something that rotates at 3000rpm isn’t worth it for me.

(Jul. 20, 2018  12:39 PM)TCBlading Wrote:
(Jul. 15, 2018  10:32 PM)RedPanda2 Wrote: only do it if your string launcher is already somewhat broken


This area within the moving circular prong part of the B-88 is what causes the clicking & gear skipping, not any internal gears. 


to the contrary, there are several ways the launcher can fail.  you are talking about one of them.
(Jul. 20, 2018  1:43 PM)RedPanda2 Wrote:
(Jul. 20, 2018  8:41 AM)TCBlading Wrote: There is now a proper fix for the gear skipping, on another post by Godly Requiem he worked out that you can swap out the worn plastic white bit that looks like an 8 that is within the circular prong bit.  But you need to take it from another Takara Tomy launcher you don’t need.  Or if you are not entering competitions, superglue the circular nubs on the 8 shape so there is no more skipping even with heavy Cho Z beys.

if you want to call that a proper fix, that is a bit of stretch.

the prong assembly is not worth messing with, imo.  many things would have to go perfectly to have any hope of retaining normal balance while launching. 

i’m happy to realign a slipped gear or retrack a slipped string, but caveman brain surgery on something that rotates at 3000rpm isn’t worth it for me.

(Jul. 20, 2018  12:39 PM)TCBlading Wrote: This area within the moving circular prong part of the B-88 is what causes the clicking & gear skipping, not any internal gears. 


to the contrary, there are several ways the launcher can fail.  you are talking about one of them.
But for your particular clicking problem, I bet you it’s in the prong assembly which is a lot simpler to fix than any other type of problem in the spring or internal gears in the main housing.  The reason why you can click until it stops is that there is one part of the grooves that is slightly tighter, that is where it stops, but it isn’t exactly a great amount of resistance.  It’s not going to become like new ie. not click or be able to be cranked, which will only happen if you stop the nubs from slipping.

For me messing with the other internals in the main housing was a lot riskier & more complicated, though doing it showed me how the spring worked which was interesting.  Fixing the nub problem is simpler & less risky.
(Jul. 21, 2018  5:43 AM)TCBlading Wrote:
(Jul. 20, 2018  1:43 PM)RedPanda2 Wrote: if you want to call that a proper fix, that is a bit of stretch.

the prong assembly is not worth messing with, imo.  many things would have to go perfectly to have any hope of retaining normal balance while launching. 

i’m happy to realign a slipped gear or retrack a slipped string, but caveman brain surgery on something that rotates at 3000rpm isn’t worth it for me.



to the contrary, there are several ways the launcher can fail.  you are talking about one of them.
But for your particular clicking problem, I bet you it’s in the prong assembly which is a lot simpler to fix than any other type of problem in the spring or internal gears in the main housing.  The reason why you can click until it stops is that there is one part of the grooves that is slightly tighter, that is where it stops, but it isn’t exactly a great amount of resistance.  It’s not going to become like new ie. not click or be able to be cranked, which will only happen if you stop the nubs from slipping.

For me messing with the other internals in the main housing was a lot riskier & more complicated, though doing it showed me how the spring worked which was interesting.  Fixing the nub problem is simpler & less risky.

i don’t have a click problem. 
when my launchers wear out, i get new ones.

messing with the internal prong mechanism is a bad idea. you’ve added asymetrical weight to something that spins at high RPM. 

further, that “8” shaped piece appears to be a clutch of some sort. disabling the functionally will almost certainly bring unintended consequences such as additional wear on other components and even safety concerns.   

just as you are free to implement the modification, i am free to argue that is a bad idea. especially if you want to advise others to do the same.  

if we were trying to play beyblade burst on a desert island 25 years from now, i’d think differently. but currently brand new beylauncher LRs are selling for $15 shipped to the USA.
Of course we are both free to do what we like.  You are free to spend more money on more B-88s but a lot of others won’t want to do that.  In my opinion assymetrical weight has already been lost when the nubs wear off & paper ain’t gonna add much.  I am not fully sure either what the 8 shaped thing is, but I suspect it allows the prong mechanism to have some sort of fallback ie. to click, instead of (worse case) break a gear in the main housing, in case someone cranks it too hard.

So you have a point, but I suspect eliminating the clicking movement would only cause problems in circumstances where the blader incorrectly uses the launcher & very forcefully cranks the wrong way to fix the bey onto the prongs.  Doing this with a new launcher a few times will most certainly wreck the resistance in the prong mechanism & cause the clicks & weak launches.

I tried your clicking method a few times, but came to the conclusion that I would rather eliminate the clicking altogether if given the option, rather than waste time feeling around & wearing out the nubs more until the ‘strong’ point catches.  

Your clicking method isn’t a bad idea but I think most people who don’t crank, would probably go for eliminating the clicking if possible.
(Jul. 21, 2018  2:41 PM)TCBlading Wrote: Of course we are both free to do what we like.  You are free to spend more money on more B-88s but a lot of others won’t want to do that.  In my opinion assymetrical weight has already been lost when the nubs wear off & paper ain’t gonna add much.  I am not fully sure either what the 8 shaped thing is, but I suspect it allows the prong mechanism to have some sort of fallback ie. to click, instead of (worse case) break a gear in the main housing, in case someone cranks it too hard.

So you have a point, but I suspect eliminating the clicking movement would only cause problems in circumstances where the blader incorrectly uses the launcher & very forcefully cranks the wrong way to fix the bey onto the prongs.  Doing this with a new launcher a few times will most certainly wreck the resistance in the prong mechanism & cause the clicks & weak launches.

I tried your clicking method a few times, but came to the conclusion that I would rather eliminate the clicking altogether if given the option, rather than waste time feeling around & wearing out the nubs more until the ‘strong’ point catches.  

Your clicking method isn’t a bad idea but I think most people who don’t crank, would probably go for eliminating the clicking if possible.

i very carefully called the clicking a workaround. 
a workaround is not a solution

the only solution is to buy another disposable $15 launcher
Found some time to dismantle broken Burst series launcher yesterday, first time ever, to see that "8" part. Actually, I did see it before, in Metal series.

Cogs on "8" are worn out a lot, but teeth on outer ring too. That part was not prone to wear out in Metal series, but there were lot of other breakages, mainly ripcords or gears.
Seriously I do agree it's not smart to glue or fix something intended to slip rather than let other parts being broken if force is too strong. I'm pretty sure plastic Layers can be broken here, otherwise they would not have changed principle from Metal beyblades launchers.
(Jul. 27, 2018  10:48 AM)iiggoor Wrote: Found some time to dismantle broken Burst series launcher yesterday, first time ever, to see that "8" part. Actually, I did see it before, in Metal series.

Cogs on "8" are worn out a lot, but teeth on outer ring too. That part was not prone to wear out in Metal series, but there were lot of other breakages, mainly ripcords or gears.
Seriously I do agree it's not smart to glue or fix something intended to slip rather than let other parts being broken if force is too strong. I'm pretty sure plastic Layers can be broken here, otherwise they would not have changed principle from Metal beyblades launchers.

In fact when I had another look, for my B-88 the nubs on the 8 shape weren’t really worn, it was actually the black circular teeth on the outer ring that were maybe being pushed outward due to the stress of heavy beys, so they get deformed, so they get don’t hold the nubs & hence slip.  

Assuming no one here is dumb enough to crank their beyblade the wrong way violently...instead of shoving paper, which could force the outer ring outwards out of shape more, glue is probably better.

But even better could be to put the outer ring in hot water for a few mins then evenly bend/push back the outer ring casing inwards working all around 360 degrees, rinse in cold water to set, & the clicking should be tight again.

And/or place the 8 shape in hot water, bend/push it so the nubs get pushed outward more, then cold water rinse to set.

So as we discovered, the design failure is also in the plastic construction of the outer ring, as there is no reinforcement to stop it from being pushed outward over time by the nubs.  Maybe thicker material would prevent this if they realise this flaw for new designs in future.  Metal would probably be more reliable but idk if it would shrink a bit in winter weather & cause looseness.
do you really need to spam your misinformation in 3 separate threads over and over at the same time?
(Jul. 27, 2018  2:23 PM)RedPanda2 Wrote: do you really need to spam your misinformation in 3 separate threads over and over at the same time?

No I don’t, just like you don’t need to visit different threads just to see if I commented on your clicking work around.  By the way the paper method is doing just fine after about 2,000 launches.
Any modifications should always be done at one's own risk (as a bad move may possibly damage the launcher further or damage Beyblades used with it), and will most likely make your launcher illegal for tournaments even if it does work. This is important to keep in mind.

Mods and hacks should not be confused as clearcut solutions to problems, but people will do what they will do. Maybe it works, maybe it won't.
(Aug. 04, 2018  1:23 AM)Frostic Fox Wrote: Any modifications should always be done at one's own risk (as a bad move may possibly damage the launcher further or damage Beyblades used with it), and will most likely make your launcher illegal for tournaments even if it does work. This is important to keep in mind.

Mods and hacks should not be confused as clearcut solutions to problems, but people will do what they will do. Maybe it works, maybe it won't.
I have the same concerns as everyone else, don’t worry.  If there is already wear in the prong mechanism this is irreversible hence it needs something to fill the gaps created by the wear.  Solution, mod, hack, caveman brain surgery, whatever anyone wants to call the remedy or work around, I am more interested in what works in the long run that can prove to make the launch like new again or better, and no I would not use a repaired launcher in a tournament, just for recreation & to save ppl throwing away their launchers when it is unnecessary to.  I fully understand if you want to make clear to people that it would be illegal for tournaments.  The majority of launches people do is not at tournaments anyway, so I think posting attempts to fix this problem is valuable.

For the paper method of stopping clicks & skipping, I wrote a sort of update on July 27 as I got concerned when I found early on that if the paper is folded too few times ie. too thin, the prong mechanism will start to slip again & start to wear or push out the grooves in the outer prong part.  Hence I thought glueing might be better.  

But after this I realised that once there is no more slipping, there can be no further wear in this area.  

So this is a little update: to help ensure no further slipping, I put thicker (say a small 6cmx3mm strip folded 8-12 folds thick) folded paper on either side of each nub (so 4 thicker bits of paper in total) jammed in between nub & the grooves.  No more slipping with heavy beys since.  I wanted to wait till at least several hundred launches before posting an update so now after 2000+ launches I can say it is still working good there was no need to do any further repairs.