Which Fafnir is better? Drain Fafnir or Fafnir F3?

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Hey there! My name is BuilderROB and I am an organizer who hosts tournaments in North Carolina.

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The wiki talks about this: http://beyblade.wikia.com/wiki/Energy_Layer_-_Fafnir_F3

Hasbro doesn't let you change out the God Chip, and the rubber is a bit stiffer, so TT's version seems to be thought to be a bit better.

But the green Hasbro version is the best visual design to me.

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[[ Michigan Blader | Avatar photo by Ivan Kislov ]]

The wiki talks about this: http://beyblade.wikia.com/wiki/Energy_Layer_-_Fafnir_F3

Hasbro doesn't let you change out the God Chip, and the rubber is a bit stiffer, so TT's version seems to be thought to be a bit better.

But the green Hasbro version is the best visual design to me.

Ironically that is the one I have. But the hasbro version seems to have really strong slopes

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Hey there! My name is BuilderROB and I am an organizer who hosts tournaments in North Carolina.

Spoiler (Click to View)

Spoiler (Click to View)

The wiki talks about this: http://beyblade.wikia.com/wiki/Energy_Layer_-_Fafnir_F3

Hasbro doesn't let you change out the God Chip, and the rubber is a bit stiffer, so TT's version seems to be thought to be a bit better.

But the green Hasbro version is the best visual design to me.

Ironically that is the one I have. But the hasbro version seems to have really strong slopes

Could you please define slopes? As I am newer Beyblade.

Could you please define slopes? As I am newer Beyblade.

The Burst mechanism for most TT beys has "teeth" in the layer, so it's like it goes tick-by-tick until it unscrews, one tooth at a time. When the layer fully unscrews, the Beyblade bursts.

Hasbro (as well as TT's Maximum Garuda) use slopes. Instead of teeth, it's just smooth and slides. So it's a slope instead of teeth.

One method is not necessarily better than the other, though some Bladers say slopes wear less easily over time. Hasbro's slope design is what makes TT layers and drivers incompatible with mixing with Hasbro energy layers and performance tips. Mixing leads to damage.

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[[ Michigan Blader | Avatar photo by Ivan Kislov ]]

Could you please define slopes? As I am newer Beyblade.

The Burst mechanism for most TT beys has "teeth" in the layer, so it's like it goes tick-by-tick until it unscrews, one tooth at a time. When the layer fully unscrews, the Beyblade bursts.

Hasbro (as well as TT's Maximum Garuda) use slopes. Instead of teeth, it's just smooth and slides. So it's a slope instead of teeth.

One method is not necessarily better than the other, though some Bladers say slopes wear less easily over time. Hasbro's slope design is what makes TT layers and drivers incompatible with mixing with Hasbro energy layers and performance tips. Mixing leads to damage.

thanks for this info. I currently only on Hasbro base but I'm considering just having a couple of TT. This is very good to know

The layers pretty much perform the same so it's mostly up to what parts you have IMO. If you're a Hasbro Blader it would be better to get F3 and vice versa for TT Bladers.

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95% of the time I spend on this site is on mobile

I have the original Hasbro F3 with 8 Nothing, the green Hasbro F3 with 7Cross Survive & the TT Fafnir F3 with the metal God chip. The best layer seems to be the original Hasbro one after swapping the layers & trying each out with different & same forge discs, frames & drivers (but Hasbro drivers for Hasbro F3s, TT drivers for TT F3). Also, I am annoyed that after only a few battles with the green Hasbro F3, the underside of a 7 disc that I put onto the original Hasbro F3 to fight with the green F3, somehow actually sliced off some of the rubber from the top of the green F3 so it was hanging off the top. I had to glue it back so it didn't come off completely. The original Hasbro F3 layer seems better quality & is a very consistent performer. I don't have the 8 Nothing TT F3 though so can't say how that does, but looking at various youtube vids, the Hasbro one seems a bit better than the TT one.

TT is better. However, Hasbro is almost impossible to burst.

The Burst mechanism for most TT beys has "teeth" in the layer, so it's like it goes tick-by-tick until it unscrews, one tooth at a time. When the layer fully unscrews, the Beyblade bursts.

Hasbro (as well as TT's Maximum Garuda) use slopes. Instead of teeth, it's just smooth and slides. So it's a slope instead of teeth.

One method is not necessarily better than the other, though some Bladers say slopes wear less easily over time. Hasbro's slope design is what makes TT layers and drivers incompatible with mixing with Hasbro energy layers and performance tips. Mixing leads to damage.

thanks for this info. I currently only on Hasbro base but I'm considering just having a couple of TT. This is very good to know

also, do remember that you cant mix Takara Tomy and Hasbro layers and drivers together or else you may end up with damaged parts.

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Which Fafnir is better? Drain Fafnir or Fafnir F3?

I would say dF for spin stealing and F3 for Attack this is because evidently, F3’s rubber is harder than that of dF’s. Therefore, dF is better at spin steal and F3 for Attack or defense...

thanks for this info. I currently only on Hasbro base but I'm considering just having a couple of TT. This is very good to know

also, do remember that you cant mix Takara Tomy and Hasbro layers and drivers together or else you may end up with damaged parts.

Yup... thanks!!