my favorite is wolborg 4 myself.

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Balro gang 

Well you might as well have recommended Dranzer S for beginners or even Dranzer V, heck Driger S or Driger V2 are good uncustomized.

You seem to be missing the point. Dranzer F has 3 different tips, giving it 3 different and common styles of movement and thus making it more informative than most other single purchases.

I still think both Dranzer S and Dranzer V are better, while they have less modes they at least are more reliable as they don't have the problems of Flame Change Base, which has a very loose bottom.

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My Cho-Z Reaper Deathscyther .12.Cr concept render, click below to see!

Spoiler (Click to View)

No I don't plan on doing more yet.

I should probably go back to making fan custom Zero G beyblade concepts again

Well you might as well have recommended Dranzer S for beginners or even Dranzer V, heck Driger S or Driger V2 are good uncustomized.

You seem to be missing the point. Dranzer F has 3 different tips, giving it 3 different and common styles of movement and thus making it more informative than most other single purchases.

It's still a terrible beyblade though. Personally for my first beyblade i'd rather have a decent beyblade than one that shows me how the types work (I don't it's hard to understand how the types work anyway and if they are you could look it up)

Alright, so I have questions about the plastic generation.

For a little background, I have been an avid fan of the MFB generation and I have.... a lot of them too many even... Buying those were pretty easy as there were many places to get them, and it was fairly easy to distinguish which ones were real and which ones were fake. The competitive parts were also easy to obtain thanks to the easy to read competitive beyblade lists.

I've been wanting to delve into the plastic generation competitively for years now... but I have a couple issues:

The first issue is that I want to pick up a lot of plastic generation beyblades off an online auction site (to build up a collection quickly), but I don't know how to distinguish which ones are real or fake. Is there an easy way to figure that out? or is it based on seller honesty?

The second issue is that I don't know which ones are competitive or good to get. Which ones do I absolutely need to own and which ones should I avoid?


So to simplify:

1. How do you determine which ones are real (assuming buying from a lot or a garage sale)?
2. Which ones should I get if I wanna get competitive (being someone who has zero)?

Please let me know, thank you~!

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So to simplify:

1. How do you determine which ones are real (assuming buying from a lot or a garage sale)?
2. Which ones should I get if I wanna get competitive (being someone who has zero)?

Please let me know, thank you~!

1. You'll need to take a picture and upload it, or link us to the lot. Then we'll be able to tell which (if any) of the Plastics are fakes.

2. Check out Poseidon's list for what Beyblades to get, and there's a link in my signature for th!nk's Plastics Competitive Combos list so you know which combos are the best.

Poseidon's list covers everything you could ever need for Plastics, but I can give you probably the most "value efficient" version (cheapest while still giving you top tier combos).

• Driger S $15-$20
  
• Driger G $10-$20
  
• Seaborg $12-$20
  
• Wolborg 4 $10-$20
  
• Wide Defense (Weight Disk) $10-$20
  

With this purchases you can create:

AR: Triple Tiger (Driger G)
WD: Wide Defense
SG: Right SG (Seaborg/Driger S)
BB: Defense Grip Base (Seaborg)

which is a Top Tier Attack Combo. You will need to invert Seaborg's tip so it becomes a Rubber Flat rather than a Rubber Spike.

Also, for a Defense/Stamina hybrid, you can create:

AR: Tiger Defenser (Driger S)
WD: Wide Defense
SG: EG Circle Survivor (Wolborg 4)
BB: Slow Release Wolborg 4 Ver.

This combo has decent normal Stamina, but the free-spinning bowl from the Engine Gear Base makes it an excellent choice to use against Zombies (Spin Stealers) and also offers it good defenses because its height, round shape, and low recoil make it difficult to land a good hit on.

Some extra tips:

• Make sure the Beyblades are Takara-Tomy or Hasbro. Back in the Plastics generation Sonokong's Beyblades were smaller and had lower quality materials until the Engine Gear Series. This rule doesn't apply to Driger G or Wolborg 4 as they are Engine Gear Beyblades. Definitely do not buy the gold Driger S.
  
• Be careful when buying Seaborg, a few sellers try to trick you into buying it with Seaborg 2's Flat Base, which is pretty useless compared to normal Seaborg's. The Base you want has a Rubber Spike tip.
  
• Wide Defense can be hard to come by but it's hands down the best Weight Disk for everything (except Compacts). BeyderAndy is selling one here if you're interested.
  

*Cough* Wide Survivor is better for Zombies *cough*

Well you might as well have recommended Dranzer S for beginners or even Dranzer V, heck Driger S or Driger V2 are good uncustomized.

You seem to be missing the point. Dranzer F has 3 different tips, giving it 3 different and common styles of movement and thus making it more informative than most other single purchases.

It's still a terrible beyblade though. Personally for my first beyblade i'd rather have a decent beyblade than one that shows me how the types work (I don't it's hard to understand how the types work anyway and if they are you could look it up)

Oh yeah, it's definitely garbage.
But most Plastics are. Stock, at least.

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*Cough* Wide Survivor is better for Zombies *cough*

That's #debatable. Wide Survivor doesn't have the weight of Wide Defense, which makes it easier to KO and the outward weight distribution isn't as great (due to their being less weight to put on the outside). Plus it loses almost-mirror matches to Wide Defense in both Zombie and Circle Survivor customs in my experience.

Thank you very much wombat for the detailed response.
Having this info makes it a lot easier to shop for them.
I'll have to do some research at this point!

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*Cough* Wide Survivor is better for Zombies *cough*

That's #debatable. Wide Survivor doesn't have the weight of Wide Defense, which makes it easier to KO and the outward weight distribution isn't as great (due to their being less weight to put on the outside). Plus it loses almost-mirror matches to Wide Defense in both Zombie and Circle Survivor customs in my experience.

Zombies don't need weight... So that's irrelevant. It's been the traditional weight disk for like forever for a reason. It's perfectly round unlike Wide Defence (the notches) which is why it's used.That's more important than the weight and the At least for a pure zombie. The weight on the outside also doesn't matter. And zombies are so easy to KO. Every zombie.

Hi guys

Are this two the same beyblade but with different light? because, has some might know I'm searching for the red Master Dragoon but when I through I had the correct one... well... the colors don't seem the same

Ashton Pinto's
Old image in ebay (similar colour of wiki's "Copper Version" of Master Dragoon)

Could someone check this and correct me which would be the real red one or if they are the same recolor with different light?

Thank you

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I hate Argentinian customs!

*Cough* Wide Survivor is better for Zombies *cough*

That's #debatable. Wide Survivor doesn't have the weight of Wide Defense, which makes it easier to KO and the outward weight distribution isn't as great (due to their being less weight to put on the outside). Plus it loses almost-mirror matches to Wide Defense in both Zombie and Circle Survivor customs in my experience.

Zombies don't need weight... So that's irrelevant. It's been the traditional weight disk for like forever for a reason. It's perfectly round unlike Wide Defence (the notches) which is why it's used.That's more important than the weight and the At least for a pure zombie. The weight on the outside also doesn't matter. And zombies are so easy to KO. Every zombie.

I understand its perfectly round shape is why Wide Survivor is used so often. I also remember th!nk saying in the past that the extra weight of Wide Defense gives more stability to BK's Double Bearing Core though.

From my experience Zombies aren't that easy to KO. Against Dark_Mousy's Screw Zeus HO combo I was only KOed once while using a Zombie (granted he was using Metal Flat). Geetster99 used a stock Dragoon G against it and lost 1-3 as well. The most solid point I have for this is when I let Tech borrow it to face Sniper's Triple Tiger/Wide Defense/Defense Grip Base (Attack Mode) custom and it won 3-1 (If you haven't seen Sniper battle on Beychannel I can assure you he's highly skilled with Attack).

My argument for Zombies not being easy to KO isn't very strong for several reasons (not as much tournament experience, 2/3 wins against Attack were not top-tier, I don't have the parts to prove Wide Defense was making the difference, etc.), but if it doesn't make a difference how much weight is on there because it'll get KOed anyways, that doesn't explain the mirror match wins.

Hi guys

Are this two the same beyblade but with different light? because, has some might know I'm searching for the red Master Dragoon but when I through I had the correct one... well... the colors don't seem the same
[IMG=http://worldbeyblade.org/attachment.php?aid=5103]Ashton Pinto's[/IMG]
[IMG=http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mhUIaVulqsY4eCF9L3gJrwA.jpg]Old image in ebay (similar colour of wiki's "Copper Version" of Master Dragoon)

Could someone check this and correct me which would be the real red one or if they are the same recolor with different light?

Thank you

They both look the same color to me, though I'm not really an expert on the recolors. I always assumed the Copper Version was more metallic red-brown (like Copper colored). Similar to the ones Dark_Mousy and Ritsuka have in these pictures (Third from the left on the second from the bottom full row in Dark's, third from the right second from the bottom full row in Ritsuka's).

I mean, Zombies are generally lightweight (unless you specifically buld a heavier one,) so to KO them isn't the hardest thing to do.

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Well from my experience they are easy to KO. Metal flat isn't as good as rubber attack bottoms and a straight Dragoon G isn't that amazing now really. You haven't even stated a combo you were using anyway which would be nice. Anyway it's on th!nk's tier list and Wide Survivor has always been known to be better for pure zombies so i'd say that's how it is.

for my question i would like to know where i can get a at least decent condition black dranzer (hasbro or anything) besides ebay or amazon? and if you know of any people that wud sell for reasonable price

also where i can find a blue edition dragoon g and red edition dranzer f

How much do you see as a reasonable price? Because it's a rare and sought after beyblade and the price is generally high for what is basically a recolored Dranzer F. Unless someone is selling it here not really.

Here's a decent condition one on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hasbro-Beyblad...3aaec931cc

Tbh i'd say ebay is your best bet. Be patient and keep checking really. Look at used lots too because those will probably be cheaper.

Here's a red Dranzer F:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Old-Plastic-Be...1c562d9753

There are two blue Dragoon G's. Do you mean the sparkly hasbro version or normal blue Takara version (by your avatar pic i'm guessing the latter)

OkinawamTS has a couple of Black Dranzer (bit chip sticker included), but is used and around 65 to 75 USD (which dependes of how good its condition is)

He has some used Red Dranzer F from 12 to 15 USD

Today he hasn't have Blue Dragoon G listed, but you could ask him.

I don't know if they are great deals, but is at list a little bit cheaper

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I hate Argentinian customs!

is $130 a good price for apollon
is $126 a good price for venus
i'm planning to buy these blades but i feel they are a bit too expensive.

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please, someone sell me gabriel g :'(
i need a hasbro white gabriel g, i'll even buy a broken one.
image below.
buying thread

Depends on the color and what condition they're in. However if we're talking prize colors and NIB/Mint i'd probably say so but wait for confirmation from others.

Oki had a $300 Thunder Pegasus last year.
Was that price accurate? I've never seen one before.

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Oki had a $300 Thunder Pegasus last year.
Was that price accurate? I've never seen one before.

Yea. The purple thunder Pegasus is worth that much
And ya,I remember oki or Beyderandy saying it was worth 400usd

I see a lot of people saying Beyblades are worth prices they don't seem to sell for, though. Would anyone really pay $300 for a purple Thunder Pegasus? Who!?

Rich people. Definitely not me. Lol. I wold never buy a bey just to have it. I would have to use it

Depends on the color and what condition they're in. However if we're talking prize colors and NIB/Mint i'd probably say so but wait for confirmation from others.

both beyblades are blue and new

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please, someone sell me gabriel g :'(
i need a hasbro white gabriel g, i'll even buy a broken one.
image below.
buying thread

I see a lot of people saying Beyblades are worth prices they don't seem to sell for, though. Would anyone really pay $300 for a purple Thunder Pegasus? Who!?

Probably a lot cheaper to get the stickers and dye a Flame Pegasus.

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