Ultimatefantasy - a few things.
First: almost all of those beyblades have been discussed in the past, in the three main plastics threads, or for some that lack direct discussion, common sense alone should tell you they're terrible. I'm pretty sure that I've already addressed all of those, most of them directly, and a few indirectly. Use the search function.

Second, in reference to your A-48 Magnecore question - don't ask questions multiple times in quick succession. If no one is answering, then no one who has read it knows the answer, but when someone comes along who does, they will. It's understandable if a whole page has passed between them but asking three times on the same page, especially when I'd already given you the best answer I could, is not acceptable.

I'm sorry to be rough on you, and I understand you're just trying to learn about plastics, but please do try to find information out for yourself first, it teaches you a lot more in the long run if you do that, and saves us repeating ourselves multiple times.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Ultimatefantasy - a few things.
First: almost all of those beyblades have been discussed in the past, in the three main plastics threads, or for some that lack direct discussion, common sense alone should tell you they're terrible. I'm pretty sure that I've already addressed all of those, most of them directly, and a few indirectly. Use the search function.

Second, in reference to your A-48 Magnecore question - don't ask questions multiple times in quick succession. If no one is answering, then no one who has read it knows the answer, but when someone comes along who does, they will. It's understandable if a whole page has passed between them but asking three times on the same page, especially when I'd already given you the best answer I could, is not acceptable.

I'm sorry to be rough on you, and I understand you're just trying to learn about plastics, but please do try to find information out for yourself first, it teaches you a lot more in the long run if you do that, and saves us repeating ourselves multiple times.

Sorry about the Magnecore frenzy, the answers didn't show on my computer and I thought the comment was forgotten and posted it again. I think it is best that I learn from my mistakes and hope they will not be repeated.
Thanks for the tips!

hahahaha... XD
eh..i thought 50USD is included shipping(registered) i forgot..haha..
EDIT:oh..it is including registered air mail bro..hahah..so..sont you think its ok Uwik??

recently..most of Dragoon G i saw on ebay is around 8-9USD excluding shipping..much more expensive then it was to be...

i used to have just the Zinrai AR (green)..but dont know which version is it..but it dont have the poles..

Now the Dragoon G's go around $8 shipping included.

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I still couldn't find out how good Gigars is. Also, which is better: Dragoon G's Engine Gear or Gaia Dragoon G's Engine Gear?

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I also tried looking up Orthros. I wanted to know the difference between Blizzard Orthros and Orthros G. I wanted to also know if the engine gear that Orthros G has is the same as the one Draciel G has or if it's different and also what the "G" in Orthros G stands for.

Does War Monkey work good with Wolborg 4's base? On the beywiki, it said War Monkey has Defence and Stamina power good enough to replace War Lion.

No it doesn't. It says that while a reasonable replacement War Lion is much better. The way you're saying it makes it sound like they're equal.

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Hey guys

A question about the EG Beyblades... I think I'm going mad

Dragoon G, Wolborg 4, Zeus, Dranzer GT, so many of my EG Beyblades open if I start them, so the parts fly around in my room... that's so annoying.
The Attack Ring on the Engine Gear is not tight enough, but I don't know what to do...

Does anyone know how to fix it the best way?

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There's not much you can do about part looseness generally unfortunately.

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Blu-tac is fine for home use, just stick a small amount at at the end of the thread.

TBH given how common looseness becomes with age, it should be tournament legal too, but oh well.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

So I searched the thread about parts not fitting with each other (obviously the Gold Sonokong Beyblades were a recurrence), however not much if anything on regular Sonokong beyblades not really fitting well with other parts. I was looking at the spin gear of Sonokong Dragoon S and it was smaller than my TT spin gear and Hasbro spin gear, which resulted in not being able to place TT/Hasbro spin gears in Dragoon S's BB. This also resulted in looseness when I put a TT/Hasbro AR on the Sonokong SG (though that might go without saying).

Is this an issue with all Sonokong Beyblades? I recently purchased Driger F, S, and Dranzer S (all Sonokong) so I really hope not.

No, that problem is only for the gold versions of the "S" beyblades.

Well upon further tinkering, I can comfortably say my regular Sonokong Dragoon S is almost entirely incorrectly sized. I have no way of judging the AR, though the fact that it fits comfortably with the smaller-than-supposed-to-be spin gear, I can assume it's not the appropriate size. The "spokes" the SG uses to fit into a BB are shorter and slimmer than all the other SG I own, meaning that in any other BB it is loose, and any other SG in the Dragoon S BB does not even fit at all. Dragoon S's eight wide is also smaller to the point where it can't fit on any SG other than the native spin gear of the Dragoon S. I confirmed this using my Hasbro eight wide from Dragoon F. All weight disks that are not the native eight wide are loose on the Dragoon S SG.
In addition to this, the left spin launcher included does not work with my Hasbro Dragoon F's SG. The prongs are not spaced far enough apart.

I know it is not a fake product because it was NIB which had the "SOK" and silver sticker used at the time.
When my other Sonokong beyblades arrive I will also report on whether those suffer from the same problem; obviously I hope not.

That's very odd - do let us know if that is the case with any others, that is very unusual, and exactly like the gold series parts. I've heard absolutely nothing of that from anyone else, either. I certainly hope it's just an isolated incident, it would be a huge shame if they were all like that. I mean, it's possible that no one has noticed or thought to post about it before you, and that our information was solely based on their G-Rev releases, but I'd think someone else would have said something before this....

I also have a sonokong non-gold Dranzer S coming, so I'll post about that when I get it, if I remember. Certainly makes me a little nervous too, even if it is only for display.

EDIT: I just checked and I don't seem to have any pre-G-Rev sonokong parts that I'm aware of.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

I'm hoping it's an isolated incident, or at least limited to Dragoon S so that the right spin Beyblades are unaffected, even if that means usage of these readily available Storm Grips is essentially impossible.

Something I think worth noting is that I couldn't discern if the Sonokong Dragoon S eight wide itself was completely smaller than my Hasbro eight wide or if only the spaces where the SG fits into the WD were smaller. Putting them on top of each other it seemed they were relatively close in size, but as I said, the spaces where the SG fit were noticeably smaller on the Sonokong eight wide, thus not allowing it to fit on any SG(Hasbro/TT) other than the Sonokong left SG.

Well, for what it's worth my sonokong gold dragoon s's 8 wide is very visibly smaller than a regular one if you put the two together.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

I wanted to know the difference between Blizzard Orthros and Orthros G. I wanted to also know if the engine gear that Orthros G has is the same as the one Draciel G has or if it's different and also what the "G" in Orthros G stands for.
[/quote]

My friend just gave me his Orthros G. What Engine Gear comes with Orthros G? I think it maybe came with Draciel G's because of having a set of ball bearings on the clip and having a metal ball tip. I know Draciel G comes with a Final Clutch Base, but the Engine Gear releases about 7 seconds after I launch it. This is the part that confused me. Is it Draciel G's Engine Gear and Blade Base, or not?

Orthros G's WD, SG and Base are based on Draciel G, the base and WD are the same, the Engine Gear is a customize version of Draciel G's, i.e. one that can use CEW's, and comes with a CEW version of Draciel G's Metal Ball tip.

Blizzard Orthrus comes with Revolver Attack, Twin Guard SP and Bolt Base, which hasbro replaced with Draciel G's parts.

I'm pretty sure the G's in the beys hasbro turned into EG beys never stood for anything.

In future, if you want to know what parts hasbro EG beys come with, there's a hasbro g-rev parts list in the beywiki subforum (it should be on the second page), and you can compare that to the parts list on beywiki to see what they changed.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Thanks for the info, i cant find the beywiki sub forum, the closest thing is the parts list. My engine gear can't be winded unless i pull the engine gear tabs before i wind it. Is it supposed to be like that?

Subforum means it's the part of the main forum dedicated to beywiki, where people write drafts for stuff to go up there. Here's the link to the thread I was talking about though: http://worldbeyblade.org/Thread-Hasbro-G-Rev-Parts-List

It should wind anyway, but it'll release itself unless the tabs are pulled. Though engine gears can be more difficult to wind up with age, if you'rs isn't winding without the tabs pulled it may be broken, though not significantly enough to render it useless.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Subforum means it's the part of the main forum dedicated to beywiki, where people write drafts for stuff to go up there. Here's the link to the thread I was talking about though: http://worldbeyblade.org/Thread-Hasbro-G-Rev-Parts-List

It should wind anyway, but it'll release itself unless the tabs are pulled. Though engine gears can be more difficult to wind up with age, if you'rs isn't winding without the tabs pulled it may be broken, though not significantly enough to render it useless.

Thanks for the info, u r a great help.
If thats the case, it works perfectly. For me it is just best to pull the tabs before winding.

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Mine releases about 7 seconds after and the clutch is final, is that the normal amount of time it takes?

I've never timed it and I can't get my beys out right now. It sounds early but I've had bases that have done that before, generally it's related to the strength of the springs in the base.

The base isn't a competitive part anyway, to be honest, so it's probably not a big deal if it is a little quick off the mark.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

A question about different versions of the Hasbro Beyblades, for example, these two boxes:

[Image: a10.jpg] [Image: bclassic_12jpgpagespeedceM73EBm25Ok.jpg]

First off, which one is the American version, and which one is the English version? Secondly, is there any significant difference between American and English versions of the Hasbro Beys, I need to know this as I'm planning to bid on what I think is the American version of a hasbro Bey.

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My Sig/Ava Warehouse - http://worldbeyblade.org/Thread-BlackCat...#pid966003

Not sure which is which but I very much doubt there are any differences.

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Terrible news. All three sonokong Beyblades I received today suffer the same exact problem of the Dragoon S to varying degrees.

For starters: Driger S...well this was awful. The SG is too small, the WD is too small, and the AR is too small to even fit on the SG without considerable force being applied. Once I wrestled it on, I could not even twist it into place because it was too tight.

From there I was leary and did not assembled the SG of Dranzer S..I just tested the AR on my Takara SG and..unsurprisingly the AR could not fit because it was too small. Hoping this was just limited to the S series, I moved on to Driger F. I tested the AR on my Takara SG and...it was too small. Out of curiosity, I assembled the Driger F's SG and the AR fit fine on it.
Obviously I'm hoping for some sort of refund as I couldn't even assemble the Driger S...but hopefully this news spreads so people are cautious when purchasing these.

Edit: just to highlight the absurdity of this, the stickers for Driger S were too large for the parts...the eyes and BB stickers noticeably so. It seemed they were the proper size while the parts were just too small.
Edit2: contacted the seller and I will get a refund (thankfully), however they too said this is the first they've heard of parts not fitting from their buyers. I'd like to think this was just a freak thing, but 4 out of 4 Beyblades being improperly sized seems to be a bit more than that..

That doesn't sound like bad luck, the stickers and everything is exactly what happens with the gold series ones...
Though the driger s's AR not fitting is definitely not normal for any beyblade.

I'm glad you got a refund. I'll post when my Dranzer S arrives whether or not it fits, and if I get one too we will probably need to update some stuff around the place, or whatever, though frankly 4/4 is a pretty convincing statistic, so people should probably hold off buying them unless they don't mind.

If it is the case onder why they suddenly realised during g-rev (well, I don't know about their v-force releases), and only then, that "oh hey we should probably make our parts fit the other companies in this partnership".


Oh, there is one other thing, can you take a picture of the Driger S's tip, side on so the shape/curvature can be seen? I want to see if they used a proper metal change or the gold series rounded tip that is nowhere near as good.

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List

Sure.


Edit: Useless photos removed,

I can't do much better with the photos, so I will say the tip was quite flat (by this I mean it was consistent in its surface..which was rounded with no points/protrusions).

Can't quite make it out. Does it have a point on the tip or is it rounded?

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th!nkBlargh|H-Code Product List