Legend Spryzen S3 sustained HEAVY damage and stress to the clear plastic contact points after maybe an hour or two of blading with dF.4G.At, gV.Magnum.X, and tW.4G.At

 Is this normal for the S3 Layer? None of these enemy beys are overly powerful (and for some reason the dF kept bursting my Spryzen even though I’m heavier and have better burst resistance, as well as better contact points) 

Can a Spryzen Vet give me the lowdown on my new favorite layer, im worried about him.

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3, 2, 1... Go SHOOT!!

do you have a photo?

do you have a photo?

First photo is earlier today (he already had a little stress from bursting opponents) before the matches, the rest are the aftermath. My poor baby...

https://imgur.com/a/TX1AL

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3, 2, 1... Go SHOOT!!

I saw the image, and nothing seems to be wrong

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What is the problem?

I don't really see anything wrong, but from the looks of it you're using left rotation, spryzen is very prone to recoil/burst in that rotation

It is normal, because hasbro uses a softer plastic that can leave stress marks, but don't worry it won't break, it also happens with the TT version but in this case the plastic deforms leaving no stress mark because of the harder plastic

I don't really see anything wrong, but from the looks of it you're using left rotation, spryzen is very prone to recoil/burst in that rotation

The left rotation was to counter dF

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I saw the image, and nothing seems to be wrong

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What is the problem?

The image doesn’t really do justice to how stressed the plastic is on the clear contact points, its very ground down and stressed (lighter in color like damaged plastic gets)

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3, 2, 1... Go SHOOT!!

Hasbro uses softer plastic than TT, so it's pretty normal to have stress marks like that especially on layer with big contact points. I'm pretty sure it's just the S3 layer that's the problem as it just hits REALLY hard, the plastic may warp a bit but it'll be fine for now

And as someone else said, left spin S3 has crazy recoil which causes it to self burst often. Right spin is usually used because it doesn't carry as much risk as left spin and can deal with right spin beys well.

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95% of the time I spend on this site is on mobile

Hasbro uses softer plastic than TT, so it's pretty normal to have stress marks like that especially on layer with big contact points. I'm pretty sure it's just the S3 layer that's the problem as it just hits REALLY hard, the plastic may warp a bit but it'll be fine for now

And as someone else said, left spin S3 has crazy recoil which causes it to self burst often. Right spin is usually used because it doesn't carry as much risk as left spin and can deal with right spin beys well.

Ok, cool. I’ll definitely avoid Leftspinning if I have a choice, but what about in the Left-Spin matchup? I’ve only been able to burst dF once while spinning right, and the rest of the time if they hard launch then I just lose stamina and fizzle out after about 15 seconds. Any suggestions for special launches to try against dF and Lefties? (Ive been trying an angled shoot to make my Disk come in contact with the enemy layer, this has caused instant Bursting for them a few times, but i’ve found if it doesnt burst them in the first 7 Seconds it usually means i’m going to lose in a stamina/defense battle.

(In case I haven’t said so and the pictures arent explicative: my build is S3.7V.Rb)

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3, 2, 1... Go SHOOT!!

S3 vs dF, right spin would be either S3 bursting or S3 stop spinning. To counter, left spin but that's kind of risky because of the recoil. S3 could burst.

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Hello

Left Spin Legend Spriggan has fair chances against Drain Fafnir, I would say 60-70% chances of winning

S3 vs dF, right spin would be either S3 bursting or S3 stop spinning. To counter, left spin but that's kind of risky because of the recoil. S3 could burst.

S3 did self burst many times cause of my Reboot. I also think the way i’m launching it might cause an initial hit with way too much recoil on my end, tilting back to allow 7Vortex to make first contact might help loosen the enemy layer a little more to give S3 a fighting chance in Smash-off.

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3, 2, 1... Go SHOOT!!

The clear plastic on Hasbro Beyblades is softer than TT. My tW W3 received a very ugly chip at the top of one of the clear plastic points that protrudes from the layer. It bothered me so much I scooped another W3 from Target. If you really like a certain part, say energy layer in this case, you should always buy a few. Also left spin Spryzen is recoil prone due to the design of the layer.

The clear plastic on Hasbro Beyblades is softer than TT. My tW W3 received a very ugly chip at the top of one of the clear plastic points that protrudes from the layer. It bothered me so much I scooped another W3 from Target. If you really like a certain part, say energy layer in this case, you should always buy a few. Also left spin Spryzen is recoil prone due to the design of the layer.

Ill definitely pick up a few then! I like the recoil on the enemy bey, but is there a way to mitigate it on my end instead of resigning to “left spin just bursts more”?

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3, 2, 1... Go SHOOT!!

The clear plastic on Hasbro Beyblades is softer than TT. My tW W3 received a very ugly chip at the top of one of the clear plastic points that protrudes from the layer. It bothered me so much I scooped another W3 from Target. If you really like a certain part, say energy layer in this case, you should always buy a few. Also left spin Spryzen is recoil prone due to the design of the layer.

Ill definitely pick up a few then! I like the recoil on the enemy bey, but is there a way to mitigate it on my end instead of resigning to “left spin just bursts more”?

Use a rubber tip like Xtreme of Hunter. That will help prevent the Legend Spriggan Combination from going flying and also improve right spin drastically.