(May. 05, 2016 2:02 AM)Angry Face Wrote: I recently purchased two loose B:Ds like the one to the right in these pictures from this auction on eBay, and while the seller claims the Bottoms were made by Takara-Tomy, I'm beginning to have doubts after having noticed that the plastic casings of their cores are lower, their shafts are looser than my old used one's, and their yellow plastic casings are both a slightly darker and less opaque.
Does anybody actually own a B:D that looks like the one to the right in these pictures that they know came from a Takara-Tomy Phantom Orion like the one on the left?
From just looking at the pictures... those are not fake, but I'd have to look at them closer to be sure.
I do not believe there was a fake company (rapidity for example) who has produced a Phantom Orion with the correct moldings and a real bearing inside it.
I received a fake Amazon Rapidity one and boy... it is blatantly awful and does not have a bearing. It has just the straight shaft and was poorly assembled... and the shaft metal is different, much smaller.
If you want to verify them you can do a few things but this does not always 100% confirm it of course.
This applies to TT/Sonokong MFB 4D.
1. The staple TT/Sonokong plastic swirl.
Almost all real semi-transparent beyblade parts by TT/Sonokong will have a swirl of some kind in it. The plastic almost appears to have a crack in it for example, at seams and other thin areas of the beyblade. They don't use a fully opaque plastic for gold, it almost appears to have micro specks in it. It's a very nice feeling plastic as well. Sleek.
In the B:D in particular there should be a seam where it was cast on the shaft leading to the tip down one screw or the other. The plastic should look like it has a crack but it's just an illusion and after product of their casting methods.
2. The mold number.
In most counterfeit beyblades, they use cheap and primitive methods to copy molds. They either clay mold it or use wax, which often times cannot capture the very minute details of the beyblade. Mold numbers almost ALWAYS disappear in these methods, and as a result, pretty much every fake beyblade will not have a mold number.
For B:D, the mold number is on the opposing side of the tip. Oriented away from the middle, with A#, and slightly larger font than other pieces.
3. The Screws.
TT and Sonokong screws almost always have a very very slight golden brown tinge to them, almost like they're starting to rust. But they can be silver as well.
For B:D, it can come with either a Philips Head(+)/Triangle head tinge/silver. I'm not sure why there is a variance.
I have five B:D. My gf has one.
I have one Sonokong Triangle Head and four tinged philips Head.
One is dark gold, and four are light shaft.
One has a shorter shaft, four are longer.
Mine have varying levels of wiggle.
Her's is silver philips screws, light yellow shaft longer with little wiggle.
Due to mold variances and wear, it's possible for the bearing to be slightly crooked, slightly lower and differing colors of yellow/gold.
I am one of the folks watching that. I might buy that lot too, just to see. The guy has a lot of loose tracks and such, but a lot of other beyblade stuff as well... but so did Crick7 and a lot of other trusted sellers.