If you look at your Cho-z bey, you will find different molds. My salamander has A2, My Acheilles A3, My Winning A1, My revive A1(why is doesn’t burst...) etc. I Am wondering. Could anyone who’s can find theirs(it’s really hard) Help test their burst resistance on this thread? I don’t have an aproved stadium, but maybe you guys do.

Edit: I looked at my twin nemesis, and he has an A2 mold. This makes sense as me never bursts, but has a C7 good chip. Is it possible that all beyblades have mold differences? And if so, what are the best and worst ones?

My z achilles has A4 mold and bursts instantly
Bcos of that i bought another one with A3 mold

Mold can change the burst rate ( i.e If a bey has A1 mold it has better burst resistance than a bey with A3 or above mold variation )

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 THE   Beyblader   from   ODISHA 

In @[Kevo]'s video,

His hK had a weird mold that it made it feel like a Hasbey... He said that putting the combo hK[LC].5B.Y made the bey really tight and difficult to burst... This is most likely the cause of a differing mold...

I have an A3 on my vice lepord, and an A2 in my archer heracles.

How can you know which ones are better?

While I do believe part variation does exist, I don't believe TT intentionally made "A3" better than "A4" or whatever. For example, a Japanese beytuber claimed A3 was the tightest mould of hK but mine is an A2. Same applies to the "A mould" god chip and whatnot.

I believe @[Wombat] can further elaborate on this.

While I do believe part variation does exist, I don't believe TT intentionally made "A3" better than "A4" or whatever. For example, a Japanese beytuber claimed A3 was the tightest mould of hK but mine is an A2. Same applies to the "A mould" god chip and whatnot.

I believe @[Wombat] can further elaborate on this.

God chips would work similarly... What Wombat stated was that there is no best mold. It depends on the layer...

So what is the best mode for hs ,I just got on today ,yay

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Just a fellow Indian blader 
Check out my selling thread 
https://worldbeyblade.org/Thread-Selling...ing-thread
Also ,if you live in Delhi and will attend tournaments be ready to be CRUSHED
lol,enjoy??☝️

I think the mold differences applies to all bets, please don’t laugh at me, I just wanted to make this for discussion.

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It’s obvious for hasbeys, but for tt, I didn’t always know.

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Sorry, but my Hasbro spryzen S2 has a seven on it. Is this for mold differences? My wild Wyvron has a two, and is ok. Holy carp.

Anyone know where to find what type mold you have on the cho z beys I can’t seem to find it

Anyone know where to find what type mold you have on the cho z beys I can’t seem to find it

Yes, I second this question, where can we check what mold we got? If we're lucky to have an A1.

Anyone know where to find what type mold you have on the cho z beys I can’t seem to find it

Yes, I second this question, where can we check what mold we got? If we're lucky to have an A1.

generally,they are on the underside of the layers

Yes, I second this question, where can we check what mold we got? If we're lucky to have an A1.

generally,they are on the underside of the layers

I already checked it, my Archer Hercules got A3, too bad. My Hell Salamander, got M? And I can't find what mold Emperor Forneus have, I've searched for it, nothing or maybe I've missed it. What does M means? Is A3 bad for aH?

I easily found the mold number on bottom of my archer heracles and vise lepord, however I was unable to find one anywhere on my winning valkyrie that came from the random booster.

It's the clear green one.

As for the vise lepord, when I do vL, 7/bump, yard it is very difficult to turn the driver when assembling, and that's A3.

I easily found the mold number on bottom of my archer heracles and vise lepord, however I was unable to find one anywhere on my winning valkyrie that came from the random booster.

It's the clear green one.

As for the vise lepord, when I do vL, 7/bump, yard it is very difficult to turn the driver when assembling, and that's A3.

What's the mold of your aH? Is it A3 too, how does it performs, is it good, what do you think?

I easily found the mold number on bottom of my archer heracles and vise lepord, however I was unable to find one anywhere on my winning valkyrie that came from the random booster.

It's the clear green one.

As for the vise lepord, when I do vL, 7/bump, yard it is very difficult to turn the driver when assembling, and that's A3.

Can you find the mold number on another version of Winning Valkyrie that you own?

I think M is just a smooshed A1.

I think M is just a smooshed A1.

Smooshed? What does that mean, the layer of the teeth is shortened?

I think M is just a smooshed A1.

Smooshed? What does that mean, the layer of the teeth is shortened?

No, it just means that the A and 1 might have been close, nothing to do with the bey being smooshed.

Smooshed? What does that mean, the layer of the teeth is shortened?

No, it just means that the A and 1 might have been close, nothing to do with the bey being smooshed.

So I got A1 on Hell Salamander? Nice, thank you.

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Sorry for double posting, it's actually A4, bummer.

Wait, I did a quick search about mold variations, A1 - A2

https://worldbeyblade.org/Thread-Mold-Variations

"Nah, I've had a few different molds. Never seen any difference, that A1 stuff just refers to which specific physical mold that batch was made in, nothing more, there's no difference between the molds other than the A1 and A2 and A3 and A4 printed on them."

I have a A4 hS and a A1 rP but I cant seem to find the mold on the WV from the random booster 10, the clear green one or the starter Bloody Longinus

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Update I found the Mold for my winning Valkyrie, I have a A2 mold, for those of you who cant find it, put the layer on its normal postion face up and the mold letters should be behind the LEFT wing, it should be inside the wing

Guys, sometimes the molds change drastically performances. My aH belongs to the A2 line, it has NO burst resistance at all. On the other hand, battling my vW A1 with its gold version showed there are no major differences between the two of them (wV A1/7/N vs gwV/4/X) Outspin and stadium outs finishes from both, no bursts. Pretty much identical, tbh. GwV has a much newer mold. Idk what to think.

This is hasbro but on the bottom of my caynox C3 there is a large 2.

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Highly Observant Hasbro Blader.

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For me, molds don’t matter too much unless it is a 7 or a 4.

While I do believe part variation does exist, I don't believe TT intentionally made "A3" better than "A4" or whatever. For example, a Japanese beytuber claimed A3 was the tightest mould of hK but mine is an A2. Same applies to the "A mould" god chip and whatnot.

Sorry for double posting, it's actually A4, bummer.

Wait, I did a quick search about mold variations, A1 - A2

https://worldbeyblade.org/Thread-Mold-Variations

"Nah, I've had a few different molds. Never seen any difference, that A1 stuff just refers to which specific physical mold that batch was made in, nothing more, there's no difference between the molds other than the A1 and A2 and A3 and A4 printed on them."

Exactly this. It's not a sure A1 > A2 > A3 > A4 thing. If there are better molds than others, it's by accident, so the number is just a way to identify it.

On top of that, we need to gather multiple reports to confirm that certain molds are better than others, because it could just be that other differences get introduced. (Variances within mold versions themselves, damage that occurs during the process, etc.)

So one person's claim isn't a lot of weight, multiple confirmations would be better proof.

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