If you answer this can you please help me?
Any 3d printers/beyblade designers out there?
I've collected pretty close 3D models of every Bit (except MN, G, TP, BP, and RA) as well as the models for the 3-60 and 4-60 ratchets. I intend to 3D model 1-60, 5-60, and 9-60 ratchets ( I do not own any 2-X or 7-X ratchets, so I can't accurately model them). As for blades, unless you've got an DLMS machine or a CNC, I don't think I can help with those lol
As for the Bits, they can be a little hard to print without a brim, a raft, or really good buildplate adhesion. You also want to print them with a very thin layer height and 100% infill. Since Beyblade X is pretty intense, you'll also want some decent layer adhesion or you'll suffer printed bits breaking on you (and if a bit with Burst Resistance breaks in the ratchet, it is *not* easy to get out; ask me how I know lol). With a .06mm layer height and some Aluminum Composite PLA, I've been able to successfully print all 25 (easily accessible) bits and they perform near identically to their real counterparts. For printed ratchets, I'd recommend simply printing the outer part of the ratchet (with the bumps that denote the ratchet type) and simply unscrewing a real ratchet and swapping them out.
The reason I use printed parts is so I don't damage my real parts in at-home games. In tournaments, I ,of course, use the real parts.
As for the Bits, they can be a little hard to print without a brim, a raft, or really good buildplate adhesion. You also want to print them with a very thin layer height and 100% infill. Since Beyblade X is pretty intense, you'll also want some decent layer adhesion or you'll suffer printed bits breaking on you (and if a bit with Burst Resistance breaks in the ratchet, it is *not* easy to get out; ask me how I know lol). With a .06mm layer height and some Aluminum Composite PLA, I've been able to successfully print all 25 (easily accessible) bits and they perform near identically to their real counterparts. For printed ratchets, I'd recommend simply printing the outer part of the ratchet (with the bumps that denote the ratchet type) and simply unscrewing a real ratchet and swapping them out.
The reason I use printed parts is so I don't damage my real parts in at-home games. In tournaments, I ,of course, use the real parts.
Is that a 3D model that you have? If you want to make an actual metal blade you'd need to get it made through a manufacturing service.
Thank you!