seaborg clear blue: too fragile?

Hello guys, just have a question for you: is this bey too fragile? I customized it with a ten heavy , nr spin heavy metal core and reverse tip. I'm really thinking to grab a trygle's triple wing to replace whale attacker, do you guys aggree?
I wouldn't use Whale Crusher if it's not necessary, I've broken 2 regular ones so far. I haven't used my clear blue one enough to say if it's fragile or not, but I would guess it's as fragile or even worse than the original.
The Hasbro Phantom Force edition (the clear pink one) is quite fragile, I have broken 2 of them as well. The problem with the PF edition is also that the base chips so the clips won't hold tight anymore. Don't know about the blue one, for me it's more a collector's item except for - obviously - the Takara tip.

I mean, to be fair: The original Takara Trygle also breaks, but hey, it's Plastics. I can recommend the Hasbro BBA Championship version, might be hard to get though and I don't know if the Plastic is that much better.

If you go for attack: Use a Ten Wide or even better Wide Defense. Ten Heavy is not advisable for this setup.
As far as I know, all whale attacker colours are pretty fragile. It's fragility is in it's design, not the material itself though. (some plastics do get weaker with time, but I doubt these do.)
(Jan. 09, 2018  1:08 AM)Nuno Wrote: As far as I know,  all whale attacker colours are pretty fragile. It's fragility is in it's design, not the material itself though. (some plastics do get weaker with time, but I doubt these do.)

That is true, the design is the major issue here. Nevertheless the clear plastic might add some problems as well. I don't know in which way Takara's solid&clear plastics differ, but Hasbro's clear parts (the Phantom Force series) seems to be stiff, not as soft as the solid one. It does not appear as durable to me as the regular releases, the plastic seems to snap easier.
I can just refer to the ones I've broken myself so far, so it could be a coincidence of course.
Oh i see, but what about the clear blue base? Takara ordinary one is not known for being fragile, but i'm freaking afraid about my clear version. Especially against low blades, what's your opinion?
PS thanks for answering me, you're so kind :)
Ops, i forgot to say that i read the whine about your breakages thread, and the wide wd are quite the easier to break (a guy told that before his gaia dragoon touched the ground, its 10 wide basically exploded in mid-air). It was just assembled, never got used before, but i hadn't read about a heavy wd breakage in the whole thread. So...
Well... let's say: You should use a regular blue Seaborg base instead of the clear one, in case you'll manage to get a regular Seaborg (could be Hasbro since you already have Takara's tip).
I've also used the clear blue one, and I don't think it is the same material as the Hasbro PF version (which won't snap from some moderate use either, just sayin' it did happen to me). I don't think the base will break that easily, so I wouldn't worry too much.

Wide Weight Discs are easier to break, but I've broken around 10 of these in the last 7 years, and I have around 150 Plastic beyblades and they were mostly 8-sided, not the newer 10-sided ones, so... yeah, don't worry about that either. Besides 8&10 Wide are pretty common (V-Force & G-Revolution releases) overall. Heavy Discs (best would be 10 Heavy) will focus the weight in the middle and it will hinder the beyblade's movement and therefore its attack power.
Best example would be Uriel 2, the stock combo has an amazing attack ring and the best attack blade base for Plastics released, still it has major issues due to the Star Weight Disc (which is basically a "Heavy" WD as well).
You would get the best results with a Wide Defense (which is quite rare), then I'd suggest 10 Wide and even 10 Balance can work with some attack setups. 10 Heavy will not work.

PS: Try to avoid double-posting. I'm not a moderator, just a kind hint that it might result in a warning. Your questions will be answered as soon as someone is able to ;)
I'm very sorry for double-posting Unhappy
So you think i can keep my clear blue base and buy a 10wide without caring too much?
Is there any difference between the first 10 wides and the latests in terms of resistance?
Damn, seaborg 1 has become damn rare Tired
Depends on how valuable this recolor is for you. If it's used I'd go ahead and use it. And if you want to get into competitive Plastics you can't really avoid using it. I can't recommend any other rubber attack tip than this, except for Uriel 2's.

Try to buy any release that comes with a Ten Wide and a few good parts, I wouldn't buy a spare one tbh. Best would be Gaia Dragoon V (Dragon Breaker & Metal Flat 2), Burning Kerberous (Double Bearing Core), Dragoon G (Eight Spiker), Wolborg 4 (Circle Survivor), Zeus (Screw Zeus).
If you plan to buy a single WD, try to track down a Wide Defense.
10 Wide is less prone to breakage than 8 Wide, but I don't think there are differences among the 10s themselves.

You might rifle through Okinawam's ebay shop if you'd like to. There are some less expensive lots like this one:
>>Click<< (comes with good parts like Roller Defense Ring, Turtle Smasher, a beaten up Driger S, which has good parts as well, and a Griffolyon with Takara's Cross Griffon and even a 10 Wide). You might find better offers on ebay, just look around.
I think every Seaborg 1 model/variationl is fragile if i'm honest. Maybe Seaborg 2 isn't as fragile.
Any of the Plastic era blades with clear plastic parts are best left for the collection. Including the Hasbro Phantom Force reissues of the S series; these may have somewhat reinforced attack rings (Dragoon Storm's Reverse Dragon & Dranzer Spiral's Double Wing come to mind), but they totally screwed up the parts fit (these ARs barely fit their own Blade Bases correctly, never even mind using them on anything else. And Tiger Defenser from the PF Driger Slash & BBA Championship Series II Driger Slash [same carp retooled mold, easy to tell, the area where the tiger stripe stickers go has a dimple that the original Hasbro & Takara mold doesn't] is the BIGGEST example of this), and they're very likely to fly apart on you during launch. Only one that hasn't happened to me personally with was PF Galeon, who seems to be the best of the bunch...maybe because that clear purple ain't all THAT clear.
Seaborg 1 definitely is fragile by design, but Takara's got a superior tip. But you're probably better off with Seaborg 2 if you can get it. A ten wide and a Neo Right SG+MG core (or HM core if you have a Takara Metal Driger) should suffice.