Hey everyone,

I've recently been getting back into Beyblade, after having rediscovered my shoebox with a good amount of my childhood parts, which was fueled by a video Jon Bringus made of his insane lawn mower pullstarter launcher. This in turn lead to me learning about the competitive scene, and taking a specific interest in the MFB Limited format, since I grew up with Metal Fusion and Metal Masters primarily. As these toys are approaching 15+ years old though, getting legit, new beys, is getting really expensive. While I've gotten some of the cheaper NewBoy beys for my collection, Midfake's are ultimatley what I'm relying on to help fill in the gaps in my collection, just because of how affordable they are.

Generally, I've read that they're overall good reproductions of these classic beys, which I'm excited about, since a way to play with and experience the beys I didn't have as a kid at an affordable price, is excellent. However, I know parts like anything that's rubber, are almost always worse, and I've heard stuff like Metal Flat is also a bit off, needing to be like flipped to match the performance of the real part? But this has lead me to wonder, what other parts are significantly worse than the original parts from Takara Tomy/Sonokong/NewBoy/Hasbro?

Even though I'm trying to avoid overspending in general, if there's specific parts that perform notably worse/different from the original parts, I'd love to have a comprehensive list on said parts, so I can try and get original versions of each part, for my collection, and maybe one day for tournament use. I would appreciate anyone's input here, and I apologize for how wordy my post is.

Basically every original part is superior to their midfake cousins, but for some specifics I'm aware of:

- Rubber parts are harder, some comparing them to pencil erasers. Samurai Pegasus' R2F suffers the least from this.
- MF has the chance of being deformed.
- Tips can attach to spin tracks weirdly, or spin tracks can have molding issues(I.e. the tip is tilted slightly on the spin track).
-B;D can either have really good spin times, or in extreme cases, last less than under a minute.
- Even after fully tightening beys, fusion wheels can rattle. I think this is primarily a 4D issue.
- Galaxy's paint coat is oddly lighter colored than legit copies, this doesn't really affect performance at all but still.

There's likely more, but these are the ones off the top of my head.

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||rolfthebolf||

Basically every original part is superior to their midfake cousins, but for some specifics I'm aware of:

- Rubber parts are harder, some comparing them to pencil erasers. Samurai Pegasus' R2F suffers the least from this.
- MF has the chance of being deformed.
- Tips can attach to spin tracks weirdly, or spin tracks can have molding issues(I.e. the tip is tilted slightly on the spin track).
- B;D can either have really good spin times, or in extreme cases, last less than under a minute.
- Even after fully tightening beys, fusion wheels can rattle. I think this is primarily a 4D issue.
- Galaxy's paint coat is oddly lighter colored than legit copies, this doesn't really affect performance at all but still.

There's likely more, but these are the ones off the top of my head.

To add to this:

- I think they're a little bit lighter on average (no more than a gram, or maybe two if you get really unlucky), so you're still pretty likely to fall within the lighter end of a wheel's weight range.
- Like Ralf said, spin tracks can be a bit funky sometimes. The bottom part of my Flash's 230 was a bit melted and warped to where you couldn't attach a tip, but I think that was the only major deformation I ran across; though it's not too uncommon for some parts (usually the metal wheels, sometimes the clear wheels) to have "flashing" that you may need to trim off or sand down depending on the part.
- Minor discoloration of some colored parts, such as paint and rubber; as well as different firmness and grippiness of the latter.
- Some parts (especially 4D) may not fit right or fit too tightly (my Diablo Nemesis's wheel does not free spin properly in ultimate balance mode, for example).
- Some beys may come with incorrect parts (namely Fang Leone coming with WD instead of W2D, although afaik I have not heard of others coming with incorrect parts so that may be the only one).
- Rubber Flat is notably lacking the "dimple" indent, instead being completely flat.
- The Rubber Ball on the Blue Wing Pegasus is kind of squished into a convex dome and doesn't stick out from the plastic tip as far as a real RB.


Since you're collecting for the Limited Format, if you want to avoid midfakes entirely (and you've got a good eye for identifying parts, even if they're partially obscured!) then your most cost-effective option would be looking for lots on places like Ebay or Facebook Marketplace. Specifically, lots that you can tell are from a Hasbro collection because of Hasbro-exclusive recolors or things like their winder launchers. In my experience, Hasbro collections usually have either very few or no midfakes, since they're likely all in-store purchases and not from online orders; although there's always a chance of them having regular fakes, so keep an eye out! 
Lots are a big investment up front so you'll have to save up a bit (usually anywhere from $50 up to a couple hundred, depending on how many beys there are and which ones they are if the seller knows what they have), but they're a great way to get a lot of parts in bulk.

Personally, I always counted how many beys are in a lot (complete ones in stock configuration, if I can see all the parts or they're fully assembled), then multiply that by 10 (roughly the price of a Hasbro bey when they were in stores). If the listed cost was less than or equal to the number I got, then monetarily it was a good deal (not necessarily part-wise, since 10 copies of Poison Serpent for $50 is still ultimately just 10 copies of Poison Serpent, lol). Also, rubber parts are usually pretty worn down, so if you can see any and they look to be in good condition, then that's a huge plus.