[HMS] :: Q&A Thread

It's not something you can see by picture.
You'd have to see it via eye.
I'm sure if you put them up close to each other it would be partially noticeable. If it's signifacant.
I don't quite understand what you mean by that, nearly everything you can see with your eye can also be seen in a picture...

You said that the Hasbro GFC was wider than the Takara Tomy GFC. By comparative pictures, I meant something like this:
(Jul. 09, 2014  12:48 AM)Wombat Wrote: I don't quite understand what you mean by that, nearly everything you can see with your eye can also be seen in a picture...

You said that the Hasbro GFC was wider than the Takara Tomy GFC. By comparative pictures, I meant something like this:

I'll try to do it, because the cores are basically mint-ish.
Edit:
Here it is. It's very unnoticeable, but it's such a SMALL tick larger. Smaller then a millimeter. It looks the same, but it isn't. Left Hasbro, Right Takara.

Another discovery. Left Hasbro, Right Takara.
The bit is taller from Hasbro. It actually helps with stability of the beyblade. It's also taller then the second mold as well. So that's different.
Hasbro modified many attack ring and running core molds when Takara allowed them release them in the US. I don't really remember why, but I think it was due to the fact that Hasbro stadiums were completely different than Takara's stadiums. My memory is shoddy, but I know for a fact that Hasbro molds were almost never the same as Takara's molds most of the time. A great example is Driger MS' and Dranzer MS' AR.
(Jul. 10, 2014  7:02 AM)djspida5 Wrote: Hasbro modified many attack ring and running core molds when Takara allowed them release them in the US. I don't really remember why, but I think it was due to the fact that Hasbro stadiums were completely different than Takara's stadiums. My memory is shoddy, but I know for a fact that Hasbro molds were almost never the same as Takara's molds most of the time. A great example is Driger MS' and Dranzer MS' AR.

Now I wouldn't have known THAT.
Sono Kong HMS is always the same minus Bit Symbol Size and maybe some Korean sticker writing.
I knew RC's were different; specifically Manual Change Core.
No clue that AR's were different though...
(Jul. 10, 2014  7:40 AM)Neo Wrote:
(Jul. 10, 2014  7:02 AM)djspida5 Wrote: Hasbro modified many attack ring and running core molds when Takara allowed them release them in the US. I don't really remember why, but I think it was due to the fact that Hasbro stadiums were completely different than Takara's stadiums. My memory is shoddy, but I know for a fact that Hasbro molds were almost never the same as Takara's molds most of the time. A great example is Driger MS' and Dranzer MS' AR.

Now I wouldn't have known THAT.
Sono Kong HMS is always the same minus Bit Symbol Size and maybe some Korean sticker writing.
I knew RC's were different; specifically Manual Change Core.
No clue that AR's were different though...

yeah, hasbro kind of messed up with the bit sizes as well. some were thicker, some were thinner. I forgot the term for the bits, but you know what i mean. i remember back when the TAKARA death gargoyle MS' bit whatever was the thickest, therefore the most used because it secured the whole HMS bey in place.
(Jul. 10, 2014  8:09 AM)djspida5 Wrote:
(Jul. 10, 2014  7:40 AM)Neo Wrote:
(Jul. 10, 2014  7:02 AM)djspida5 Wrote: Hasbro modified many attack ring and running core molds when Takara allowed them release them in the US. I don't really remember why, but I think it was due to the fact that Hasbro stadiums were completely different than Takara's stadiums. My memory is shoddy, but I know for a fact that Hasbro molds were almost never the same as Takara's molds most of the time. A great example is Driger MS' and Dranzer MS' AR.

Now I wouldn't have known THAT.
Sono Kong HMS is always the same minus Bit Symbol Size and maybe some Korean sticker writing.
I knew RC's were different; specifically Manual Change Core.
No clue that AR's were different though...

yeah, hasbro kind of messed up with the bit sizes as well. some were thicker, some were thinner. I forgot the term for the bits, but you know what i mean. i remember back when the TAKARA death gargoyle MS' bit whatever was the thickest, therefore the most used because it secured the whole HMS bey in place.

Actually DGMS' Bit is the Second mold, but the 3rd mold (Shining God, Slash Riger, Bloody Devil, ETC.) is far more secure, with barely any space between the AR and Bit.

Concerning AR changes; do you have any details further about the ARs? I'm very curious, because you're an old timer xD
(Jul. 10, 2014  8:22 AM)Neo Wrote:
(Jul. 10, 2014  8:09 AM)djspida5 Wrote:
(Jul. 10, 2014  7:40 AM)Neo Wrote: Now I wouldn't have known THAT.
Sono Kong HMS is always the same minus Bit Symbol Size and maybe some Korean sticker writing.
I knew RC's were different; specifically Manual Change Core.
No clue that AR's were different though...

yeah, hasbro kind of messed up with the bit sizes as well. some were thicker, some were thinner. I forgot the term for the bits, but you know what i mean. i remember back when the TAKARA death gargoyle MS' bit whatever was the thickest, therefore the most used because it secured the whole HMS bey in place.

Actually DGMS' Bit is the Second mold, but the 3rd mold (Shining God, Slash Riger, Bloody Devil, ETC.) is far more secure, with barely any space between the AR and Bit.

Concerning AR changes; do you have any details further about the ARs? I'm very curious, because you're an old timer xD

from what i remember, i believe it was when takara started outsourcing production to china and hasbro got their molds from the chinese versions. theres more info at the wiki- http://wiki.worldbeyblade.org/index.php/...ifferences
(Jul. 10, 2014  11:39 PM)djspida5 Wrote:
(Jul. 10, 2014  8:22 AM)Neo Wrote:
(Jul. 10, 2014  8:09 AM)djspida5 Wrote: yeah, hasbro kind of messed up with the bit sizes as well. some were thicker, some were thinner. I forgot the term for the bits, but you know what i mean. i remember back when the TAKARA death gargoyle MS' bit whatever was the thickest, therefore the most used because it secured the whole HMS bey in place.

Actually DGMS' Bit is the Second mold, but the 3rd mold (Shining God, Slash Riger, Bloody Devil, ETC.) is far more secure, with barely any space between the AR and Bit.

Concerning AR changes; do you have any details further about the ARs? I'm very curious, because you're an old timer xD

from what i remember, i believe it was when takara started outsourcing production to china and hasbro got their molds from the chinese versions. theres more info at the wiki- http://wiki.worldbeyblade.org/index.php/...ifferences

Maybe Hasbro got the Japanese molds instead?
The "Chinese" mold is the commonly cheap bey on eBay and it's Takara. So it seems Hasbro got the first run, which is swell!
Best combo with these beys?

Driver MS
Draciel MS
Gaia Dragoon MS
Jiraiya MS
Death Gargoyle MS
Advance Striker MS
Phantom Fox MS

I just need the best attack and stamina types I can make from these, thanks Smile
You're pretty well to do for Attack:

Upper Attack
AR: Circle Upper
WD: Circle Wide, Circle Heavy
RC: Metal Flat Core

But since you lack a Wolborg MS/Bearing Core, your Stamina potential is limited to the likes of Bearing Core 2 and Metal Change Core, in which case you'd be better off going straight Defense or Stamina-Attack (i.e. stock DGMS, maybe with a Circle Wide):

Defense
AR: Circle Upper
WD: Circle Wide (for better Stamina), Circle Heavy (for more weight)
RC: Bearing Core 2
Driger MS Fukubako 2004 Version (Red)
&
Death Gargoyle MS Red Version

Will chasing these two make my wallet hurt and can I even find them? Seems rough since their limited editions of such old beys.
Well DarkFox is selling the red Driger, and maybe you can find the red DEMS from someone else. Driger probably won't be too expensive, but I know the least about HMS so don't quote me on that.
The Red Driger is worth about $65 +.
Guess something near 65 or 70ish wish wouldn't be too bad but then there's DEMS to worry about...

Also: Thanks for the quick reply. Didn't expect that. Smile
(Jul. 14, 2014  5:05 PM)*Ginga* Wrote: The Red Driger is worth about $65 +.

Oh wow. Didn't think it would be that much considering what a normal Driger MS goes for. I would have guessed $40-50 personally. Guess I need to brush up on my HMS, haha.
lol, I thought the same as well. I've been looking for HMS beys for so long that I should know better though.
(Jul. 14, 2014  4:39 PM)Aɴɢʀʏ Fᴀᴄᴇ Wrote: You're pretty well to do for Attack:

Upper Attack
AR: Circle Upper
WD: Circle Wide, Circle Heavy
RC: Metal Flat Core

But since you lack a Wolborg MS/Bearing Core, your Stamina potential is limited to the likes of Bearing Core 2 and Metal Change Core, in which case you'd be better off going straight Defense or Stamina-Attack (i.e. stock DGMS, maybe with a Circle Wide):

Defense
AR: Circle Upper
WD: Circle Wide (for better Stamina), Circle Heavy (for more weight)
RC: Bearing Core 2

Thank you! Appreciate the help! Hopefully I'll be able to use these soon!

Any suggestions on any Stamina Beys I should get to help my combos?
Wolborg MS is all you will ever need for Stamina haha.
Bearing Core is wonderful. But if you have a Sliding Shoot Expert VS you...it could mean death.
I've found a spare HMS customise grip lol, how much is it worth with the rubber grips and the finger grip thing. I forget, but $60 or something?
I bet you have a Hasbro one.
They gave the grip the finger and rubber support.
I think you're right.
3...grips?
Damn, PM me right now.
But it does depend, they're rare but they don't HAVE to be expensive.