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+---- Thread: [Plastics] :: Q&A Thread (/Thread-Plastics-Q-A-Thread)
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RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Sparta - Jun. 25, 2012
I find Driger S in general, just an all-out amazing blade.
So guys, I was looking at an RC Launcher on eBay. I wanted to get it, but
1. I wasn't sure if it could launch regular beyblades
2. If it's even any good
3. If I had a choice between a nice RC Launcher, and a Dranzer Shooter, which should I get? Is one better than the other? Or is it just preference of looks?
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
(Jun. 24, 2012 7:35 PM)ლ(ಠ益ಠლ) Wrote: I appreciate the additional help, you guys.
Another question: For Defense, which would best substitute War Lion? War Monkey, Upper Dragon, or Master Draciel's AR?
There are three different types of defense in plastics, what type are you asking about?
Sparta:
1. It can
2. It's fairly comfy. I want to replace the one my mum threw out actually. Has a big antenna you may want to bend out of the way though.
3. RC should be bigger. No performance differences.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Angry Face - Jun. 25, 2012
Mainly weight based, but I believe Master Draciel's AR should do that just fine on 10 Wide and SG Metal Ball with four metal balls, correct?
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
Master Draciel's AR is actually the best AR for weight based defense IMO (and it's an opinion shared by many who are knowledgeable on the subject), but you should use 10 Heavy instead of 10 wide. Some of those very knowledgeable people prefer Wide Defense (including Guardian Odin, who was considered "the expert" on weight based defense), but I personally prefer 10 Heavy for weight based defense. I assume it's a versatility thing, whereas I use weight defense for more specialised purposes.
Also try to get a heavy metal core and some neo right casings. Metal Driger comes with 10 Heavy and an HMC so you'd just need one of the many beys with neo right casings, if you don't have any already.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Angry Face - Jun. 25, 2012
I've actually already looked into getting a Takara Metal Driger for both of those parts, but for different purposes, and Wide Defense is just too darn hard to find for any good price, ha ha. Oh, but how does Hasbro's Trypio fare for Defense in the same setup?
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
I'm guessing for compacts? Something while I'm here - my compact is only a few grams lighter than my weight based defender and has much more stamina and less recoil. Not as easy to hit stuff with because of the small size, so I do keep my weight defender in my roster, but yeah, only just. It is one of the more expensive compact setups (though compacts are one of the cost effective types), a driger s compact using Driger V2's base and Defense Ring for more weight, and given the 5g weight increase vs metal change base I think the height tradeoff is worthwhile, given Defense Ring more than compensates for any balance issues that can result from the taller height.
As for wide defense, I've covered it on my blog, it is hard to find and expensive if you look at it as a single part, but one should also consider that the number of uses for it vs the cost really isn't that bad compared to most whole beyblades.
Both Trypio AR's are terrible - massive weakness to upper attack and force smash - well, moreso that anything hitting above/below the AR (which due to sloped stadiums is Every Opponent Ever) will violently destabilise it and cause it to scrape, and because there's no legal plastic setup where the AR isn't directly attached to the main source of weight, this means the beyblade dies extremely fast. Outside of hasbro stadiums (which aren't legal anyway) where they're too big to go through the pockets, there aren't any uses for it, though there is an illegal setup (based on the AR/Weight separation thing) where it seems to make the whole thing pretty ridiculously overpowered, though I haven't tested it enough yet with other AR's.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Angry Face - Jun. 25, 2012
I was almost gonna buy a Trypio, so that's good information to hear, ha ha. Obviously an AR has to be relatively round for Defense, but then I guess thickness and weight play more of a role in plastics than recoil? (excluding OHKO's)
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
It just depends on the combination. Generally roundness is good but for some types other properties can be more beneficial - in the case of Master Draciel's Smash Turtle, it has some force smash at the edges of it's wings, is fairly round and the nubs are supposed to grind stamina off the opponent, though the force smash is far more noticeable. The force smash slopes backfire unless the bey they're on is heavy/resistant enough (I discussed this in plastic parts discussion), but weight based defense is basically the epitome of "heavy/resistant enough". That said, Master Draciel's AR doesn't have much recoil. Protruding AR's do create a weakness to upper attack but Master Draciel's AR doesn't affect that on weight based defenders.
Lowering recoil is actually more notable for survival types where there's nothing else compensating for it and no benefit to extra smash, but two types of defense benefit greatly from survival properties, sooooo.
For plastics, you have to lose the MFB Mindset - the three types of defense are all very distinct. In fact, the various sub-types of each main type are all like that, it makes writing a competitive combos list very difficult.
Defensive Zombies share most requirements with Zombies, therefore round parts are a priority, though weight is equally important, so wide defense is much better than the rounder but much lighter wide survivor, while no other WD's are round enough to be useful (though MG WD can be used with Cross Survivor SP's with some effectiveness, this setup has much, much poorer survival).
For Wolborg 4 based defense setups, the AR has little impact on the defense as long as it doesn't protrude to offer contact points to the opponent, so the focus there is on increasing the survival ability, though defense and survival have similar traits: basically, minimising recoil is important for both. If you're using 10 balance instead of wide defense, taking a more defensive approach with the AR can be a good idea.
And then there's weight based defense, which we've discussed. Tiger Defenser and co are by no means useless for it, they're still top-tier choices, but Master Draciel's is much more versatile. Venusian G's AR is also pretty decent, in left spin it has rather low recoil and it's also really heavy, but generally I find the survival tradeoff isn't worth it.
Also, a little note, while Galeon's AR is touted for its defensive ability, it's improvement over Tiger Defenser is pretty minor. The shape is less protective and has more recoil, while the SAR compensates for this, it also has worse stamina. Also, it's fragile as heck, especially if you aren't using a setup that shields it somewhat (i.e. wide defense/survivor), and even then the main AR breaks fairly easily. It's not a bad AR by any means (and the SAR is fantastic), but personally I find tiger defenser much more useful.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Sparta - Jun. 25, 2012
(Jun. 25, 2012 4:36 AM)th!nk Wrote: Sparta:
1. It can
2. It's fairly comfy. I want to replace the one my mum threw out actually. Has a big antenna you may want to bend out of the way though.
3. RC should be bigger. No performance differences.
Oh, that sounds great! I found one on eBay for a grand total of $10.00 without they beyblade, which I think Imma get (Nice Dragoon Version). The main concern was if it could launch regular beys, but if it can then it sounds totally worth it.
Thanks.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
Yeah, the only launcher that can't launch beys is the one which connects to TV's as a gaming thing, it looks similar to an RC launcher but is larger and has some other small differences. I forget the name, but it's not too hard to tell them apart, and I don't think you'd get one for $10. With that one, the Takara one can launch beys while the Hasbro one does not come with prongs for some mystical reason (it can be modified with them but this is probably not legal, haha). The details on both of those are murky though. If you're worried about the one you plan to buy, feel free to shoot me the link via PM and I'll let you know (and if you're at all worried, I'm after a Dranzer one, not a dragoon one
).RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Sparta - Jun. 25, 2012
Actually, I'm after a Dranzer version as well, haha. The dragoon had pretty close coloring though, so I wasn't going to be picky.
Also, I'll PM you the links (There were 2) but I think they both ended. No bids were placed, though, so hopefully they'll be reposted. It was an amazing price, too.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - ZX - Jun. 25, 2012
ok guys i need some help just recived my dranzer gt today and well need some help on using the EG please tell me if im doing it wrong but since i dont have a EG winder i use my fingers and i twist towards me so i twist to the right then when i launch it it circles but the engine gear never kicks in am i doing it wrong? please help?
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
Wind it like you would a Left Engine Gear. If the tip is facing you, this is counter-clockwise. Also for it to work properly it should be used with a Final Clutch base (which it comes with), and you should make sure to pull the clutch tabs out and make sure they stay out before launching.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - ZX - Jun. 25, 2012
(Jun. 25, 2012 9:31 AM)th!nk Wrote: Wind it like you would a Left Engine Gear. If the tip is facing you, this is counter-clockwise. Also for it to work properly it should be used with a Final Clutch base (which it comes with), and you should make sure to pull the clutch tabs out and make sure they stay out before launching.
still no help
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
(Jun. 25, 2012 10:24 AM)ZX Wrote:(Jun. 25, 2012 9:31 AM)th!nk Wrote: Wind it like you would a Left Engine Gear. If the tip is facing you, this is counter-clockwise. Also for it to work properly it should be used with a Final Clutch base (which it comes with), and you should make sure to pull the clutch tabs out and make sure they stay out before launching.
still no help
Did it not work or did I not address the problem? You need to actually explain things if you want people to be able to help you.
If it just didn't work, take it out of the base and wind it. Does it make the winding noise or not? After trying that, push the white tab on the EG in, and see if that makes it activate. If it does, then the base may not be releasing the clutch or whatever. If it doesn't, the engine gear is likely faulty. It could be that it's not winding properly, I have that with some engine gears, and it takes some effort to get them to wind up. I can't provide instructions on how but try holding the CEW and winding the beyblade around it anti-clockwise (with the AR facing you) quickly instead (try to actually spin it around the EG a bit until the EG catches and starts winding). If that doesn't work, then I'd be pretty sire it was broken.
If I didn't address the problem, explain it more clearly please.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - ZX - Jun. 25, 2012
(Jun. 25, 2012 10:29 AM)th!nk Wrote:(Jun. 25, 2012 10:24 AM)ZX Wrote:(Jun. 25, 2012 9:31 AM)th!nk Wrote: Wind it like you would a Left Engine Gear. If the tip is facing you, this is counter-clockwise. Also for it to work properly it should be used with a Final Clutch base (which it comes with), and you should make sure to pull the clutch tabs out and make sure they stay out before launching.
still no help
Did it not work or did I not address the problem? You need to actually explain things if you want people to be able to help you.
If it just didn't work, take it out of the base and wind it. Does it make the winding noise or not? After trying that, push the white tab on the EG in, and see if that makes it activate. If it does, then the base may not be releasing the clutch or whatever. If it doesn't, the engine gear is likely faulty. It could be that it's not winding properly, I have that with some engine gears, and it takes some effort to get them to wind up. I can't provide instructions on how but try holding the CEW and winding the beyblade around it anti-clockwise (with the AR facing you) quickly instead (try to actually spin it around the EG a bit until the EG catches and starts winding). If that doesn't work, then I'd be pretty sire it was broken.
If I didn't address the problem, explain it more clearly please.
ok i have taken the engine gear out and i can hear the winding noise and when i click the white it makes the engine gear active
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
Then it's the base. I'm not an expert with the base's functionality, but are the clutch tabs in or out? They could be jammed out, and it's rather difficult to un-jam them and I haven't done it for years, so I can't really help you there, but a lot of strong launching might do it in the end.
If they're not out, put the SG in, pull the tabs out, and then launch and see if they have gone in when it stops spinning, if they are, maybe the clutch isn't pushing the white tab in far enough or something...
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - ZX - Jun. 25, 2012
(Jun. 25, 2012 10:43 AM)th!nk Wrote: Then it's the base. I'm not an expert with the base's functionality, but are the clutch tabs in or out? They could be jammed out, and it's rather difficult to un-jam them and I haven't done it for years, so I can't really help you there, but a lot of strong launching might do it in the end.
If they're not out, put the SG in, pull the tabs out, and then launch and see if they have gone in when it stops spinning, if they are, maybe the clutch isn't pushing the white tab in far enough or something...
would it be easilyer to show you a video of the base?
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
Not really, videos usually don't have enough detail. Just check to see if you can pull the tabs out further or not...
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - ZX - Jun. 25, 2012
well im pulling as hard as i can and they wont go out anymore so im guessing there out fully?
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - th!nk - Jun. 25, 2012
Yes they would be out/set then.
Perhaps your base acts more like how final clutches should act, that is the EG activating when hit by an opponent, (usually they're jumpy and release on launch instead and then activate the EG once the force from rotation is weak enough that they slip in and hit the button). You may want to try launching it against an opponent (if you're worried about condition/damage, use a different AR instead, one that protrudes past the base).
Otherwise, just do what I said a couple of posts ago with the launching as hard as you can and letting it run it's course thing.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Sparta - Jun. 25, 2012
Dranger GT's engine gear screws up the beyblade, anyways :p
Make sure there are springs where the tabes are and on the opposite sides. I can't tell you how many times I've lost springs or gotten a bey that came without 'em. The engine gear should fit pretty tightly inside the base, so if it doesn't that could be it, too.
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Angry Face - Jun. 25, 2012
Thanks for all the help and information, th!nk. I'll try to put it to good use in the future.
Just one more question (for my friend): He has a blue Hasbro Driger S that's in pretty good condition because he never liked it, so he didn't play with it all that much. A few stickers are peeling, but he and I are both still curious as to whether or not it's at all rare or valuable. (can't get any pictures, unfortunately)
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Sparta - Jun. 26, 2012
Just the fact that it's a recolor earns you brownie points, but even more: the only Driger S's I see these days for sale are SOK. Any official company Driger S would probably go for quite a bit of dough - but don't push too hard. A lot of people don't understand just how good it is uncustomized, and so they might think because it's from the first series it automatically sucks (which is NOT the case, believe you me). I'd say somewhere in the teens or low twenties would be a safe price for a regular, but since it's recolored I'd say mid 20's (Maybe $26?)
RE: Plastics Q&A Thread (All Plastics Questions Go Here!) - Hazel - Jun. 26, 2012
Depending on exactly how used it is, $25-30 would not be out of the question. The condition of the tip is especially important, if you're going to sell to anyone on the WBO.