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+---- Thread: [Plastics] :: Random Thoughts/Parts Discussion Thread (/Thread-Plastics-Random-Thoughts-Parts-Discussion-Thread)
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Sep. 15, 2012
Hm, this is quite odd. Most of my 8 Wides are 11.3-12 grams, but some others are 12.7-13.2g Some in either set have the extra bump on one end, some don't.
All of the heavier ones bar one have the sharper moulding of earlier (or maybe all, I'm not sure) takara eight wides, but so does one of the lighter ones. While there are slight thickness differences (the sharper ones look slightly thicker) but that of course means there are members on either side of the thickness in either group. Attack points don't seem to affect the average weight severely.
I guess what I'll do is categorise them visually, as that at least separates them, and assume the non-matching ones weight-wise are just unusually light samples (as can occur sometimes).
Will try to get some pictures tomorrow.
Mold wise, the same sharper molding was present with Eight Balance and Heavy, with the latter having indentations on one side around the centre, and generally the sharper molds of all WD's have faintly indented circles on one side. Both companies' (6) Wide/Balance/Heavy's had this it seems.
The sharply molded ones were very reminiscent of Sonokong's G Rev weight disks, being similarly less polished (albeit not to the same degree).
I think takara produced both molds of Eight Heavy. I initially thought mold 1 was fake as it was used by the fake bey companies (at least those I had as a kid) so when I got a takara bey NIB with one I was kinda surprised. I'm pretty sure I've got takara blades with mold 2 eight heavies but I'm not 100% sure.
And yes, this is related to beywiki work I'm doing.
Oh also the lighter version is the lightest weight disk on average. My bad for calling wide survivor that, Wide Survivor is roughly 0.5-1g heavier (just a rough estimate), being around 12.4g on average.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Ya - Sep. 16, 2012
What is currently the best stamina set-up in Plastics ?
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Oct. 24, 2012
I've been doing a little bit of experimentation on right spin zombie AR's as it's not an area that has been thoroughly examined and there are many small AR's from the first gen that could work. I also needed to properly test the AR's for the first draft of the "as concise as possible" plastic database I'm still working on (and I might focus more on that soon as I think it'd be great for everyone).
Most of them do work okay, but very few stand out. Here's what I tried. I also tested a couple of better known ones for comparison.
Keep in mind that these were not formal tests, nor for a significant number of rounds. I was mainly getting a picture of their behaviour in battle (i.e. how they interacted with the opponent) as well as an idea of how much they would generally lose/win by in a given matchup. As such, this post may not be completely accurate, however I am fairly certain that it is at least a decent indicator of each AR's performance.
They were used on my Zombie Setup with a Neo Right SG:
AR: Whatever
WD: Wide Survivor
SG: Neo Right SG (Double Bearing Version)
SP: Defense Ring
BB: Customize Bearing Base
Still not sure whether I prefer that or Defense Grip Base 2 for BK's shaft, honestly.
Against the following:
AR: Twin Horn
WD: Wide Defense
SG: Neo Left SG (Double Bearing Version)
Shaft: SG (Bearing Version 2) Shaft
BB: Defense Grip Base 2
Kind of a Hybrid of Defensive Zombie and Regular Zombie, I am quite fond of this combination though a lot of the aggression you get from tips catching inside Customize Grip Base is gone which can make you more susceptible to Spiral Change Base, depending on launch strength and technique and how smoothly your bearings run (as they do differ slightly especially with use).
Anyway, the notes:
Cross Dragon: Average. It is evenly distributed but the shape creates recoil especially when hit from above. Not bad, but that leaves it in the same category as many, many other AR's.
Trycutter: Surprisingly poor. A lot of recoil when hit, especially from above. Not a good one, perhaps the worst I tried.
Scissor Cutter: Average. Less recoil than I expected but roughly the same as cross dragon.
Wing Cross (Mold 2): Pretty solid performance, its great weight distribution is always a plus but this is tempered by the moderate (for a stamina AR on Wide Survivor) recoil it suffers. Not bad but not exceptional. Works much better on Circle Survivor Defense combos as they keep it away from contact.
Roller Defense Ring: Actually really good, in fact, it performed better than Wing Cross! I suspected it had some potential due to its incredibly small size, round edges and the fact its contact points are rollers. Its weight distribution leaves a bit to be desired but its small size and low recoil make up for it. Definitely a pleasant surprise. I also want to test its defense.
Bound Defense Ring: Basically identical to wing cross. Perhaps slightly more recoil in its stock configuration, with the SAR reversed and positioned to obscure the extensions of the main AR it's basically the same (not sure if this should be legal, however there's no real harm in it). So, not bad, but not a must have. One day I will do some solo spins with it and wing cross to hopefully work out which is better for that.
Wing Cutter (mold 1): Shockingly Great: This one really stunned me as I'd largely dismissed it, thanks to its horrible shape. However, it was perhaps the second best thing I tested, not sure whether it was better than Roller Defense Ring. Good weight distribution and strangely very, very low recoil - I mean, yes, it's very small so wide survivor covers it but so is Trycutter which still had recoil issues then. I will try to do some formal testing on it, I guess, though I'm worried about breakage.
Tiger Defenser: Hands down the best AR I tried today. Awesome shape giving it minimal recoil, excellent defense, and good spin stealing ability, alongside a good weight distribution (albeit not quite as good a distribution as wing cross). It's Tiger Defenser, what else would you expect?
Other things I want to try are Galeon's AR with its own and Gaia Dragoon G's SAR, as well as Hasbro Twin Horn with Gaia Dragoon G's SAR.
Speaking of Gaia Dragoon G's SAR, it has a rather odd quirk - while it performs extraordinarily well against Circle Survivor Defense, it performs extraordinarily poorly against Driger V2 combinations, I assume because it's slightly weaker to upper attack or something but this doesn't show defensively, just in terms of survival. Not sure why this occurs but it's very noticeable and may also occur with other Upper AR's, I'm not sure yet, but Driger V2 combos are definitely more noticeable.
I'm not sure I've mentioned this but Dranzer F's AR (Flame Wing) is a decent (tier 2) left spin zombie AR, very similar to Wing Upper. If it weren't for those bulky protrusions at the ends of its wing tips it would probably be top tier, though whether its perhaps slightly better weight distribution would be enough to overcome the spin stealing ability of the very, very similarly shaped Twin Horn (thanks to its notches) is hard to say. They are shockingly alike though, both have rounded heads with more recoily noses/beaks and cover a very similar area and they're almost identical in width (aside from the large wingtips of Flame Wing), both being slightly wider than Wide Survivor without suffering for it (aside from the wingtips, again).
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Vongola-Hibari - Oct. 26, 2012
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't Zeus BB a top tier defense part when the rubber was worn down?
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Oct. 26, 2012
That would belong in Plastics Q&A, but Zeus has no rubber.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Ultra - Oct. 26, 2012
What? Sigh:
1) Tip ain't rubber. It's made of plastic.
2) All engine gear bases suck so not definitely not.
3) Only the Takara one has the red tip. Hasbro got rid of that for some reason.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Oct. 29, 2012
Eh, Zeus' base does have some use for Balance/Defense - Stick it on a Circle Survivor Defense combo (using rock bison's EG) and it's the heaviest practical Base+SG setup that can be made (though if you have a heavy enough HMC, SG Metal Ball+HMC can be heavier even without gimmicky base clips), and it's very effective too, though it's noticeably easier to KO than a regular circle survivor defense as the circle survivor part is fixed in place.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Tobias_Marco - Nov. 26, 2012
I want to be able to build my own combos, however I still have a lot to learn.
What gives a beyblade better balance?
What gives a beyblade better stamina?
What gives a beyblade better defence?
What gives a beyblade better attack?
As of right now I don't know many people who own beyblades, so I mostly end up launching it to see how long it will keep spinning. What parts and pieces would keep my beyblade going the longest?
Right now I am using a Draciel F for my attack ring and a Draciel F blade base with 4 balls in it, not counting the tip.
I was wondering if I should use a 10 Heavy, or a 10 Balance in it. I also have the tiny inner weight ring from the Draciel S.
I have:
Bistool (Balance)
Draciel F (Defense)
Draciel Metal Ball Defenser (Defense) base with a Draciel F attack ring.
Draciel V2 (Defense)
Dranzer-S (Balance)
Driger
Weight Disks:
Ten Wide x2
Eight Balance x2
Ten Heavy
Eight Heavy
Six Heavy
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - 6ixty9ine - Nov. 28, 2012
you'll have to excuse my poor knowlege of plastics but
just recently i have been fiddling with parts to make something interesting.
I used one of those Kellogs cereal attack rings too. just for lols.
basically its the purple attack ring pictured here
Spoiler (Click to View)
and the base is just a plane smooth plastic with a rounded tip it's purple if that helps.
sorry if that's too vague but it's the only way i can describe it.
but anyway, yeah it yielded some interesting results. and is fun to play with, odd it being defence type and that it has the tendency to throw the opponent out of the stadium.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Ingulit - Jan. 07, 2013
So, I recently got all my plastics together to take the collection photo and I started messing with them a bit, and while I was having fun I had no clue what is good or bad to the point of being able to test random ideas. I've been working on browsing Beywiki, but of course it is incomplete and not knowing the names of parts is frustrating. So, per the recommendation of th!nk, I'm posting pictures of my parts here! If I could get any help with what each part is and what some good combos would be, that would be fantastic.
All parts are Hasbro.
This is the first batch of Attack Rings I own, nothing too fancy. Again, I don't know the names of these parts or if they are any good at all.
Attack Rings 1 (Click to View)
Second batch of Attack Rings.
Attack Rings 2 (Click to View)
These are the parts I own that are broken, unfortunately. I'm including this in case anyone is all "Oh, you have this part, why not this part?" when they see my pieces.
Broken Parts 
(Click to View)
(Click to View)These are all my weight disks. Again, I only have Hasbro, so no Wide Defense or Circle Survivor or anything like that. I had a Magnecore weight disk, but it broke.
Weight Disks (Click to View)
These are all the Blade Bases I could find, and I took closer pictures so you can tell which is which better. Also in these pictures are an Attack Ring and a Weight Disk I forgot to put in their respective photos.
Blade Bases (All) (Click to View)
Blade Bases (Right) (Click to View)
Blade Bases (Left) (Click to View)
This picture is just to show that I have both left and right spin gears, four Magnecore spin gears, and one Metal Weight spin gear. I also have both the longer bit chips and the ones with the plastic cover (is there actually a performance difference?).
Spin Gears and Bit Chips (Click to View)
Thank you for any help I can get!
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Jan. 07, 2013
Not really the right thread - Q&A is in Beyblade General, but eh, I should've given you a link, so may as well reply here. I'll mostly just use beyblade names for the parts, probably more what you're after anyway.
AR Pic 1: From Left to Right, 2x Draciel F (Top is Metal Master, bottom is Hyperblades), 2x Master Draciel, 1x Galzzly (Secondary AR Missing), 2x Galman, and then the final column, going down, Dragoon V, Dragoon F, Dragoon S.
Master Draciel's AR is the only really useful thing here.
AR Pic 2: Left-Right, Top Row First: Master Dranzer (Hyperblade), Rock Bison, Driger V, Driger F, Polta (why do you even have three of these), Bakushin-Oh, Dranzer F.
Bottom Row: Jumping Base, Flash Leopard, Metal Dranzer, Driger F (Metal Master), 2x Polta, Bump King, Dranzer F
Jumping Base's AR (which is Driger S's Tiger Defenser) and Metal Dranzer's AR are both useful (and outclass Master Dranzer, Flash Leopard, and Dranzer F's AR's, which do the same things worse).
Broken (L-R, Top Row First): Metal Draciel, Galzzly's SAR, Roller Attacker, Zinrai (Mold 2), Metal Dragoon Bearing Stinger, Roller Defenser (with the Mod that is now illegal).
Roller Defenser's AR is useful but you have Tiger Defenser anyway, Zinrai's AR (although Mold 1 is better) and Galzzly's SAR both have uses for attack, but eh.
WD's: each row is heavy, balance, and wide of their respective side numbers (6,8,10)
Bottoms: AR is Griffolyon's, albeit Mold 2. WD is Ten Balance.
Blue, Yellow, and 2x Orange Group: Blue and Yellow are Semi-Flat Base, Oranges are Sharp Base. Blue goes with Roller Defenser, Sharp Bases go with Polta.
Semi Flat Base has some stamina use (historically called balance in 10bBistool but I've ranted about that before), but is outclassed by zombies.
Next to the WD: Dragoon V, Master Dranzer (Hyperblades), Dragoon F.
Bottom: Driger V (Semi-Flat/'Correct' Version), SG Sharp (Master Draciel), SG Semi Flat Base (Flash Leopard), Griffolyon Base (Mold 2), 2x Dranzer F.
Driger V's and SG Semi Flat Base are second-tier choices for compacts.
Middle: 4x SG Sharp Base (2 Purple are from Galman, Light Green is From Master Draciel). Beneath them are 2x SG Flat Base, red from Galzzly, Gunmetal from Metal Dranzer.
Next to those: 2x Fortress Base (Draciel F) and Jumping Base (which should have another two tips).
On the far right, the top two are from Metal Dragoon Bearing Stinger, and the bottom two from Driger F.
And you can figure out the SG's, I'm sure. The use of a regular bit chip vs the cover and chip only makes a small difference, but I've had it affect results before in close, stamina-based matchups.
Best combos you could do would probably be:
Compact
AR: Tiger Defenser (Jumping Base)
WD: 10 Heavy
SG: Right SG (MG Core)
BB: Driger V or SG Semi-Flat Base
and for stamina:
AR: Tiger Defenser
WD: 10 Balance
BB: Semi-Flat Base
Also try Metal Dragoon Bearing Stinger's base (with 10 Balance and 10 Wide) but without wide defense/survivor I don't think it'll hold up. 10 balance is used on the above combo because wider WD's make it too easily destabilised.
Attack (not very good but yeah)
AR: Griffolyon
WD: 10 Wide
SG: regular Right SG
BB: Dragoon F
You could try something involving driger F's sg but I don't think you have the parts to pull it off.
I hope that's vaguely intelligible
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Jan. 21, 2013
I think this is worth a double post, given that you're not going to hear this information from anyone because no one else is crazy enough to use the parts I just used.
Basically, finally got around to trying out my Orthrus (much to Hazel's chagrin - he hooked me up with it, haha). The things I do for beywiki, huh?
The name is romanised in the instructions as Orthrus. The only use of "Blizzard Orthrus" is describing the bit chip in the parts list - though the chip itself just says "Orutorosu" - Ortros/Ortrus (yeah, it really shouldn't be Orthrus but they seem to have decided that - though there are some spelling errors in their romanisations ("botl base" lol) this one is too sensible to be that kind of thing IMO).
The SP's LAD is okay but nothing revolutionary, it's just a two-sided Survivor Ring, with the same (if not moreso) left-spin-only thing. No reason to use it over Defense Ring or Wolborg 2's base. It's also very thin/compact (its normal width (i.e. not the spikes) is as wide as defense ring including the bumps), and given the aggression in right spin and the fact it's over a gram lighter than defense ring, there's no real reason to use it for defense (where the buffer offered by Cross Survivor is preferable for pure defense) or compacts, where defense ring has that weight and LAD advantage.
For Attack, it's again a lot like a two sided survivor ring - the protrusions hit hard enough to KO Tiger Defense/10b/Semi Flat Base every so often but do suffer some recoil (though my SP testing combo was Sparkling Attacker's inner AR and a plastic-less MG WD on Customize Grip base so it doesn't have great recoil control lol), but Survivor Ring having three protrusions means it's more likely to land hits on contact, making it slightly better. They have similar ranges but much of Twin Guard's range is backwards-angled so.... Compared to Cross Survival they have slightly more recoil but also more power. Still, attacking with SP is dumb, and I prefer Cross Survival's weight distro and LAD.
Basically, it's okay, around as good as survivor ring but no better than expected.
I haven't used the base because I can't see any use for it, it's slightly lighter than Customize Metal Change Base, has horrible LAD and a flat plastic tip. EDIT: May actually be useful, but I doubt I'll be able to do enough testing to confirm this before I go on holiday.
The AR was the real surprise - to be frank, it's one of the hardest hitting Right Spin smash attack AR's I've used, it's basically a right spin version of Hayate's AR, the same recoil issues, but the same tremendous Attack power - it can KO anything, even the best defensive zombie, given an optimal setup, though it cannot do so reliably.
I, of course, used the optimal setup. Collectors, if the hair on the back of your neck stood up about 10 minutes back, this is why:
Combo:
AR: Double Attacker (Orthrus)
WD: Wide Defense (Green Plated)
SG: Right SG
SG Core: SG (Bearing Version 2) Core
SG Tip: SG Grip Change Base Tip (Ariel 2) Near Mint (the one I keep in great condition for tournies)
SP: Twin Guard (orthrus)
BB: Customize Bearing Base (Burning Kerberous)
As Hazel put it, I'm basically playing baseball with a Fabergé egg.
The tip and weight disk managed to handle the recoil okay, but not perfectly. It's also worth noting the AR is quite loose on most SG's I have - I can't use it on my grip base, for example, though I doubt it'd have the recoil control necessitated by the AR. I'm going to stick with my dual AR setup as that has less "regular" recoil (flies back less, though they both have similar rotational recoil (loss of stamina after hits).
So yeah, another great attack part that is a royal pain to obtain - almost like Takara didn't want people using attack haha.
I think I might make a OHKO notation or AR category for Smash Attack on the plastics cc list...
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Cannon - Feb. 10, 2013
I love Orthrus' AR. It has so much power, even when it has a few rotations left, it can still KO the opponent.
Does its base have good use ? If you have time, would you mind testing it? I wouldn't want to use my NIP one.
Thanks again for testing !
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - ShinobuXD - Feb. 15, 2013
Any chance of someone trying a Magne Weight Disk for zombies? They're nearly completely circular.
Sorry if I'm being stupid, I don't know much about plastics.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Ultra - Feb. 15, 2013
th!nk has tried it. I don't think it did well but better than other hasbro available weight disks.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Feb. 17, 2013
Try to keep in mind that if you come up with a way for something to be a zombie without using wide defense/survivor, it has almost certainly been tried at least three times before the WBO even existed, seeing as western players didn't have Wide Defense and Survivor without importing, which was far less common than it is now, but often still knew about zombies.
The only way a Magne WD is circular is without its casings, which aside from being illegal, is too small and has its very light weight (not always a good thing even for a spin stealer!) too poorly distributed to do anything, and it still has those nubs which don't take hits well.
For Magne WD itself, with the casings, the only way to make a zombie with it is to have enough LAD that poor spin stealing doesn't matter, so it has to be used with Spiral Change Base, and with that reduced spin stealing capacity (IE, you can't launch as weak), increased recoil, and the light weight of Magne Weight Disk, that is fraught with peril, but it is still an option.
The other method for making a zombie without Wide Defense or Survivor generally still needs Spiral Change Base to work at all well, is using Gaia Dragoon G's sub ring, though as you still need a good main AR, White Gabriel G's being significantly better than War Lion, this is a pretty unlikely route if you can't get a Wide Survivor/Defense. However, here, 10 wide works better as it has a better weight distribution and less friction. The AR setup runs into trouble against Driger V2-based combos for whatever reason, but then if you're facing one of those with a regular zombie you're probably going to be KO'd anyway.
Basically, anything that isn't actually circular is going to be a poor choice, and Magne WD has a pretty terrible weight distribution to boot.
Cannon: I had some minor success with it but I'm still very unsure about that as it was quite odd, so I can't say anything more at the moment. I plan to test it when I get time.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - ShinobuXD - Feb. 17, 2013
So from what I can see from your post- the cheapest ways to make a Zombie are to own Spiral Change Base or just purchase Wide Survivor/Wide Defense and buy something with a bearing like Wolborg 2 or Burning Kerberous.
A good AR and a Left Spin Gear are also needed of course, but I already have Driger S and Dragoon V2.
Is this all correct?
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Feb. 17, 2013
Not everything with a bearing is good or can make a zombie (especially if those bearings aren't shielded ball bearings, just regular metal or plastic discs) but yeah.
Anyway, Spiral Change Base is the cheapest way to make a zombie and even then to make it good you really need wide survivor/defense. If you're at all serious about plastics you need to get wide defense anyway. I prefer Sonokong's Spiral Change Base and Tiger Defenser (and a wide survivor) for SCB setups, slightly smaller tip diameter makes it slightly less aggressive, slightly smaller AR is just a little more out of the way (which is good for this combo, but not really noticeable in anything else). Still, regular ones, and Wide Defense, work fine. You will be weak launching and hoping for the best a lot of the time with any SCB combo though.
Wolborg 2 has a rubber tip so it doesn't work for normal zombies (though defensive zombies with Defense Grip Base 2 can be very useful, sometimes just being better than a number of other zombie setups, but ideally you'd want BK's SG).
Burning Kerberous requires Support Parts (but defense ring, probably the best to buy, is very useful anyway), and Wolborg 1's base is pretty poor (and overall it's a very average beyblade, even with a non-hasbro SG, though the casings are the only real way to use MDBS's tip in left spin which is good).
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - ShinobuXD - Mar. 18, 2013
I think Panther Claw should be tested for defensive zombies and zombies. It's basically like a less compact Tiger Defenser when both are in left. I'll try to test myself, but it will be tough since my Cross Griffon likes to either fall of or skip on most of my launchers.
Another part that seems like it would have potential is 6 Wide. It should have excellent weight distro on something like:
AR: Triple Tiger
WD: 6 Wide
SG: Neo Right MG Core
SP: Dark Series
BB: Customize Grip Base
EDIT: I did some comparisons between Panther Claw and Tiger Defenser. Panther Claw did a little worse, but I still think that it is at least a tier two defensive zombie AR. Keep in mind that I only did ten rounds each, to prevent wear on the prongs of my launchers and on SG Bearing Ver. 2
Spoiler (Click to View)
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - th!nk - Mar. 19, 2013
The AR shouldn't have an effect on launching, that's the SG and the Prongs, unless the AR is broken.
As for panther claw, it's near the top of my testing I need to do list for that, however I have extremely strong doubts about it - in right it has a gap with a flat, thick, square contact point at the back of the head that causes major recoil when hit, the regular contact points are slightly too exposed, and in left the protrusion on the forehead - which protrudes past wide defense, is going to also add recoil. It's also kinda thick around the centre.
While Flame Pegasus' AR has a bit of recoil at either side, it makes up for this with a good weight distro and those unique rounded sides, and for left spin in particular there's also Dranzer F's AR, which has a much better leading edge than Panther Claw - so tier 3 is where I'd be thinking. And, that's not a pretty place, seeing as Metal Dranzer's AR is usually not that expensive to get your hands on, and sits in Tier one. FWIW Tiger Defenser also has some minor recoil problems in left spin, it's only saved by its small size.
And for right spin, well, there are a lot of small, decently distributed 4 Layer AR's out there - Wing Cross, Bound Defense Ring, Roller Defense (distro could be slightly better but it's tiny and has extremely little recoil - I mean, the only contact points have wheels, haha), and various others I think Panther Claw is going to struggle to compete with.
Also, as much as I understand not wanting to wear parts, I really am getting tired of having to point out that a Single Round difference is not enough to draw any comparative information from, especially in only 10 rounds, even moreso with rather one-sided results. Also, plastics attack vs defense is very prone to wild fluctuation for myself and some others I've spoken to, BB-10 probably only exaggerates this as KO's in that are almost random, because the deeper dish introduces a lot of angled attacks that don't happen in TA, and that I don't think were quite... Intended, for plastics, I guess. The deeper angle also means a lot more variation in what hits what - is TD/PC actually being hit or not, it's hard to tell. The height of SG BV2 with its own shaft probably only makes both of these things worse.
As for how good/bad you are with attack, I can't say, but I'm concerned that people worry so much about this making their tests useless despite benchmarking, rather than, say, only doing 10 rounds, or whatever. Odd priorities.
6 Wide for anything? Lolnope. Sacrificing external weight distribution for marginally better weight focus on a plastics attacker is, to put it blunty, stupid. A primary difference between MFB and Plastics, due to their overall weight and recoil differences, is that movement speed is far, far more important to Plastic Attack than putting weight behind contact points. Sure, every bit helps but you shouldn't sacrifice movement speed for anything that isn't a truly significant power boost (using Dragon Breaker+Screw Zeus, the heaviest AR setup in plastics, is one thing, but even that relies on speed, seeing as its weight is a part of its attack - on a worn ariel 2 tip/basically anything but a fresh ariel 2 tip, War Bear seems to have a slight edge). Really, the main factors are moving as fast as you can via externalised weight distribution and having only enough weight to control recoil.
More importantly, perhaps, is that Wide Defense is actually six-sided (or six-sectioned) and has incredible chemistry with triple tiger when put on right, the small protrusion adding a tiny amount of additional oomph to one contact point without adding recoil or having a major effect on balance (you can make successful zombies with it, haha).
Furthermore, triple tiger seems to particularly benefit from higher speeds - and doesn't need much weight to control its recoil, resulting in it being one of the few attacking AR's where wide survivor is a better choice than wide defense. Of course, on CGB, Wide Survivor is too light to control recoil, but on Ariel 2's tip, Wide Survivor provides a significant speed increase that even allows the odd KO on wolborg 4 combos (I mean, it still gets wrecked by it but it's better than having absolutely no chance to KO it!) Heck, the best setup for it is probably Triple Tiger/Wide Survivor/Neo Right SG (Bearing Version 2) Ariel 2 Tip/Defense Grip Base 2 (Wolborg 1's base might be equally good, but DGB2 has better weight distro, and the LAD means if you're lucky you might get the odd OS on defensive zombies using CGB). Yep, sacrificing the weight focus of survivor ring, too.
If it helps any, though, I have actually tried it a couple of times myself, and was distinctly unimpressed.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - TimeOut - May. 07, 2013
Is there any advantage in using the magne weight disk one side up or another when not playing in a magnetic stadium?
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Ultra - May. 07, 2013
Nope. If you're playing in a stadium where magnetics doesn't matter then both sides are the same.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - TimeOut - May. 07, 2013
Sorry, forgot this part, using the magnegear spin gear also, the repulsion or attraction has no effect on performance?
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Ultra - May. 07, 2013
You mean if you use both the magnetic weight disk and spin gear on a beyblade? No that won't make a difference to performance.
RE: Plastic Parts Discussion - Izhkoort - May. 07, 2013
actually... is pretty weird to have this issue... but when you have a magnetic spin gear, the magne weight disk will be attracted or rejected to it, this can lead a free spinning part (like a Sub-AR) to be pushed by the Magne Weight Disk, or to a Support part to be pushed to the Blade Base
I have this issue because I'm using it in one of my combos (see my signature -I know is not good! but I like it that way!-)
So my sub-ar spins less because of the friction but I thought of that in order to have better balance in Magnetype Stadium
(I know it's a really special case, but i think is better if we specify it)