World Beyblade Organization by Fighting Spirits Inc.

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A Zombie customization is a Beyblade combo that is designed to steal spin from the opponent and have the "Life After Death" ability. Zombies use specific parts in order for it to work together. For optimum performance, the AR should be either compact or align with the WD in order to prevent any recoil from hits. The WD and SP used on this type of customization are usually circular in shape which allows a minimum amount of friction between the two Beyblades to let it steal spin as well as to help in the "Life After Death Ability". The BB and SG used determines which direction it steals spin in, what type of bearing and shaft are to be used, and whether or not to have a SP with it.

Spin Stealing
The most commonly known aspect of Zombie Beyblades, spin stealing refers to when your Beyblade uses the momentum of the opposing Beyblade to keep itself spinning. To do this, your Beyblade must be spinning in the opposite direction of the opponent's Beyblade. When the opponent's Beyblade hits yours, your Beyblade will use the rotation of the other Beyblade to propel itself to keep moving.
Life After Death
The origin of the name "Zombie" is not its ability to steal spin, but its "life after death" ability. The term "Life After Death" is used to describe a zombie's ability to continue spinning on its side after it has fallen over. If your Beyblade is still making complete rotations, it is still considered to be spinning. All beyblades have this ability to an extent, but to have good LAD, your Beyblade must be perfectly round at the points that touch the stadium floor when it falls over. For this reason, Wide Survivor is the best weight disk to use on zombie type combos.
Parts Selection
To build a true Zombie, there is a very specific list of parts that will work correctly. Below you will find a list of parts that will work with Zombie Beyblades along with their advantages and disadvantages.

Attack Rings

Wing Cross (Bistool, Gekiryu-oh, Frostic Dranzer): This AR is very light and the weight is distributed evenly. Unfortunately, this AR can only be used in right spin and only the rarer Mold One works well.
Scissor Attacker(Metal Dranzer): This AR lines up perfectly with Wide Survivor and Wide Defense, and has very low recoil and excellent survival in left spin. Unfortunately, it only works well in left spin.
Twin Horn (Gabriel): This AR has a very round shape and small notches to steal spin from the opposing Beyblade. It also has a small amount of smash attack that can occasionally knock out the opposing Beyblade. It is important to note that the Hasbro version of Twin Horn was modified to support a Sub-Ring and thus, only the Takara version works well for pure zombies, whilst the Hasbro version is excellent for defensive zombies.
Tiger Defenser (Driger S, Hasbro's Jumping Base): This AR is very compact and has small points where it can steal spin.
War Lion (Galeon, BBA Balancer): This AR is very compact and has small points where it can steal spin. Also, War Lion's free-spinning Sub-Ring prevents it from being hit hard by the opposing Beyblade.
Roller Defense Ring(Roller Defenser): This AR is quite compact and smooth, and has low recoil due to the smoothness. Unfortunately, like Wing Cross, it can only be used in right spin.

Weight Disks

Wide Survivor is the best choice for a Zombie combo. Its perfectly circular shape allows for life-after-death and lines up with most ARs well enough to steal spin. A spark disk version of Wide Survivor was released with sandpaper around the edge. This greatly increases its spin stealing ability, but is illegal under WBO rules.
Wide Defense is the only other acceptable weight disk to use for a zombie combo. It is nearly completely circular, except for six small cuts into it, as well as one notch on the outside. This weight disk became popular for zombie combos when players started using attack types to counter zombies.

Spin Gears

Bearing Base (Metal Dragoon Bearing Stinger): Although this BB does not have an SG, the metal shaft can be placed in Bearing SG (Wolborg) to allow compatibility with 4-Layer and 5-Layer customization. Hasbro's Bearing Stinger has a harder tip than Takara's. Serious Japanese players would import Hasbro's Bearing Stinger for their zombie combos.
Bearing SG (Wolborg): The most basic tip selection. However, only the Takara version is suitable; Hasbro's Bearing SG has design flaws in the sharpness of the tip and the straightness of the shaft.
Bearing SG 2 (Wolborg 2): Using this tip, you will sacrifice Survival for Defense ability. If you are facing a Beyblade with a significant amount of Attack ability, this tip may be a better choice than the others.
Double Bearing Core (Burning Kerberous): Not to be confused with Wolborg MS's Bearing Core, the Double Bearing Core is inserted into a Neo SG. Double Bearing Core is unique in that it has three bearings: two in the shaft and one in the tip. The one in the tip cannot be replaced, but the ones in the shaft can. It includes one NSK shield bearing and one metal bearing; you must replace the metal bearing with an NSK shield bearing. The tip of Bearing Core is sharper than the previous tips, but it also has a lower angle that allows it to be shot into Attack-mode like a Metal Change tip.
Full Auto Clutch(Driger F): The Full Auto Clutch SG doesn’t provide much LAD itself, but it is the best SG for Full Auto Clutch Base.
Free Shaft(Dranzer S): Much like the Full Auto Clutch SG, this SG doesn’t offer any extra LAD, but is the best SG for Spiral Change Base.

Blade Bases

Bearing Base (Metal Dragoon Bearing Stinger): This BB, like the SG of Burning Kerberus, can hold two NSK shield bearings. However, one of the included bearings is a metal bearing and must be replaced. Unfortunately, this BB can't be shot in left spin.
Defense Grip Base 2 (Wolborg 2): A round and evenly-weighted base that serves itself well to all of the above-listed SGs, especially Double Bearing Core. However, this BB cannot use SP (Support Parts).
Customize Grip (Dragoon V2): Dragoon V2's tip can be removed and Bearing SG, Bearing SG 2, and Double Bearing Core can all be inserted. This BB is the only way to use Bearing SG and Bearing SG 2 in conjunction with SP.
Customize Bearing Base (Burning Kerberous): Only the Bearing Core casings can fit into this BB; however, it is sleeker and smaller than Customize Grip and has more LAD.
Full Auto Clutch Base (Driger F): This base can only be used with the Full Auto Clutch Shaft, but it has excellent LAD, more so than almost all other bases. Unfortunately, it has poor survival in the same spin.
Spiral Change Base (Dranzer S): Spiral Change Base has more LAD than any other base or SG in the generation. Unfortunately, it has poor survival in the same spin and can be knocked out extremely easily. As such, it is recommended to weak launch this base in it’s attack mode, to try to reduce the chances of being knocked out.

Support Parts

Cross Survivor (Dranzer V2): These SP slope upwards to protect against Upper Attack, and have four symmetrical projections that can steal spin in either spin direction.
Defense Ring (Voltaic Ape): These SP are perfectly round with small bumps running along the edge that will assist slightly in spin-stealing.
Survivor Ring (Dark Series): These SP are perfectly round with three small wings that assist greatly in stealing spin. For the best performance, Survivor Ring should be used with a left-spin Beyblade.
Twin Guard (Blizzard Orthrus): These SP have two small wings that have good LAD and help steal spin. Unfortunately, Twin Guard only works well in left spin, due to the recoil it has in right.


Tip Condition

The condition of your tip is very important in not only zombie types, but any type of combo. Generally, mint tips have greater survival, but are easier to knock out of the stadium, while worn tips have greater defense. This important depending on what kind of combo your opponent is using. Eventually, players started using attack type combos to beat zombies. This spawned the usage of parts such as Wide Defense and Defense Grip 2. Therefore, you should have tips prepared with different conditions to face different scenarios.
Bearing Tuning
NOTE: The following has been officially declared illegal under WBO rulings, and is being kept here for informational purposes.

To make a true zombie the bearings on your beyblade must be tuned. There is a grease inside the bearings that keeps them from rusting. This grease creates friction. To reduce the friction remove the grease. To remove the grease from your bearings you need paint thinner (or something that can produce the same effect), two cases that can close (Film canisters work very well, and if not, you can find suitable containers at any department store), and some kind of desiccant (something that absorbs the moisture in its surrounding environment, which keeps the humidity down and prevents rusting because metal requires water to oxidize). Pour the paint thinner into the case and then place your bearings in the case, and close it. Shake the case for five minutes. The paint thinner should change color. When this happens remove the paint thinner and pour in new paint thinner. Let it sit for about an hour and then remove the bearings. Place your desiccant in the other case and keep your bearings in it. Without the grease your bearings will rust exponentially faster which brings us to the next step.
Coating To protect your bearings from rust you have to coat them in an oil like microlon (Microlon is used to create a dry-film lubrication that protects from rust and reduces friction.) Pour the microlon in a bottle and place your bearings in. Let is sit for about an hour then remove the bearings. Dry your bearings with a hair dryer and repeat this process 3-5 times.
Seasoning Even after being degreased there is still friction between the metal balls in the bearing. To reduce this connect your metal shaft to a motor and turn it on (The motor for remote control cars works) When your bearings start to make noise the seasoning is complete. This can take from 1-5 days. Seasoning will make the metal balls in your bearing in to perfect sphere shapes.
The Community Bearing tuning has become very frowned upon within the community. It has made the game broken and pretty much eliminates the fun of the game. Until Wolborg MS was released you could not win a tournament without a zombie type combo. The game became so broken that there have been talks of counting bearing tuning as illegal modification.

Did this per requests from Kai-V and theblackdragon. Sure hope it looks good :\
You should also note that spin stealing is actually equalizing. Also I think it would be useful to talk about zombie/spin stealers/equalizers in MFB like Revizer Dragooon SA165EWD/B: D.
I agree with AZL. Spin Stealers and Zombies almost alike. A Left Spin with or without Rubber on its metal wheel can Equalize both or say the Left-Spin spin power possibily after it wobbles. A combo like Basalt Bull R145R²F/RF is surely a spin equalizer. I surely hope this thread is really helpful.
This thread is for zombies, which is a term only used with plastics.
Seems to be a worthy re-write. Well done. Very impressed by the level of detail; something not present on the current version, or at least the one I read last. Not sure if it has changed.
(Jul. 17, 2013  3:21 AM)Tri Wrote: [ -> ]This thread is for zombies, which is a term only used with plastics.

It's also used in HMS, and some people use it in plastics.

This draft has factual and naming errors (dranzer s's bb is best used with the lightest sg possible, not its own, bk's sg is Neo SG (Double Bearing Version), you can make a zombie using Ten Wide and probably some others if you compensate for the lower spin stealing efficiency with greater LAD (eg Spiral Change Base, which even with ten wide can handle most other zombies 1v1 in opposite spin) or by providing another main contact point (basically this means using Dragon Saucer SAR). Generally it is inferior but such combinations still have the characteristics of zombies and can work decently as them. Also on the note of Dragon Saucer, it is neither all that compact and it protrudes past the WD, thus doesn't fit the description but can be used. You also didn't mention it, or a bunch of other things on the CC list.

Their use as regular stamina customs in same spin matches also needs to be addressed as bearing equipped zombies are also the best options for this, with the fact SCB and FACB aren't good at same spin stamina needing to be highlighted.

Also not sure about BK's tip being sharper than MDBS's, the fact defense ring has significantly better LAD than other SP should be highlighted, as should Twin Horn's spin limitation (which is much more significant than Survivor Ring's, as survivor ring's only has a minor impact on LAD).

Defense Grip Base 2 "can't use SP" - it has better LAD than any SP anyway, which also needs to be highlighted.

Customize Bearing Base: Check the compat list, look at how many casings can be used with it. This is one of my main gripes with the current article and the CC list shows this stuff too.

The whole true zombie thing is kinda dumb, building an "effective zombie" is no more specific in terms of parts requirements than any other type tbh - tons of decent AR's,

And IMO the "The Community" part should be updated, basically turning what's there into past tense and explaining that it was banned (however you can).

I can tell you put a lot of effort into it, but people missing important facts at least until I get there are a big part of why I'm doing plasticsDB, so just hold off an update to this until it's released (perhaps even til I get around to the zombie entry there, though between this post and what's already there I think most things are covered). Personally, I'd suggest trashing any part of the old article that referred to specific part performance or compatibility because otherwise you're basically building a house on quicksand.

Also personally, zombie and spin stealer are basically different terms for the same thing anyway - zombie generally focusses on those with LAD due to the definition but frankly seeing as precession serves the same exact end, it's a pointless distinction (I've mentioned before that perhaps we should just call them spin stealers but there's a lot of attachment to the term "zombie" so it won't happen - instead we just apply the term wrong sometimes rather than giving the idea that there's a significant difference between the two - perhaps the article should cover that but I'd want Kei to look that over before approving the inclusion of it).
Perhaps doing separate type articles for each generation is a better idea, seeing as there aren't that many people who could do one for all three generations, and it would be hella long for a lot of types. Could all be linked in a see also section or whatever.

Also, on the bearing seasoning/tuning thing: There's this: about Microlon (slick50 is the same thing under a different name). Based on the description of what is wanted and my own experiments (read: Put a bearing on a shaft, spin the bearing fast (hard to explain the "technique") while holding shaft up to ear, listen to noise from bearing), I would suggest that everyday WD-40 might be more effective (due to low viscosity, whereas motor oils which seem to be what microlon is are high viscosity and thus would provide resistance at low RPM's, similar to what grease does - and in the bearings I own, this is audible in the way the bearing rapidly slows down at lower rpms), though it would greatly increase wearing, though given that most of the information seems to be based on knowledge of RC hobbyists and the fact RC stuff has the bearing working at higher RPM for much longer, I wonder whether that would be a problem... I also have a theory on seasoning but I don't really want to discuss that, because I think it could be exploited (if any CM's see this and are curious, I'm happy to explain the theory and the basis for it over PM)

Personally, I'd like to go through the process myself with a couple of bearings just because it's a gap in my knowledge on plastics - while I do have some idea from having some shielded ball bearings that spin noticeably freer than others than others (though nowhere near to the extent tuned/seasoned bearings are supposed to, it's only noticeable in very specific setups), I can't tell how what I do know scales or if there are other things I might not be able to predict by extrapolation that might explain certain differences between my own tests and those from the era of tuned bearings. Perhaps whenever I have money to spare again.

I would suggest replacing the tuning guide with something more vague, so it's less likely to be wrong and also less detailed in general. Old versions are there for anyone with research interests, anyway.
Quick question: I noticed in another thread that Killerken Dragooon uses LAD to keep itself going, so should this article be entirely from a plastic/HMS perspective, or should we add in more info on newer build types? Or, is it even really POSSIBLE to build a true Zombie Bey in MFB/Zero-G?