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Full Version: HMS Rubber Grip / Plastics
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I'd like to buy the grip rubber for HMS customize grip. Please PM me if you have one to sell. Good condition works.

Also need a few plastics:

White Galzzly Paint Kit (NIP only)
Magical Layer (NIB only)
Dranzer G (NIB Takara only)

The market is carp right now - at least someone is trying to buy!!
Here's the tournament dome:

http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/au...enlargeimg

Probably the only place you'll find it by the way. Not many people know about it. Also while I haven't used them i'd say that the type S is better since it's fairer for attack types. There was a lot on YJA with a tornado balance for 1000 yen but i'm not sure if it was bought or just ended without bids.
Thanks Ultra - I actually hadn't checked the Japan sites for that one. Doubtful that anyone is going to ride in on a white horse with a sack full of MA-03's, but I am hopeful about the others - less than an hour and you already pointed one out that I...ahem...hadn't been able to find (errr - just lazily hadn't yet searched for).

Definitely pulling the trigger on it!!!
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Have you ever re-molded any stadiums in the past? It sounds like a really great idea; I've always wondered if it was possible.

Tornado Attack is generally regarded as one of the best Stadiums ever released. It's pretty fair competitively. Tornado Balance, on the other hand, is larger (and probably flatter, but I'm not sure), and the exits are smaller, which skews it more towards Stamina/Defense types. It's still a good stadium, though.
(Feb. 01, 2013  7:53 PM)Kei Wrote: [ -> ]Have you ever re-molded any stadiums in the past? It sounds like a really great idea; I've always wondered if it was possible.

I tried it once, learned from it, and am ready to do it again. my problem was trying to create a silicone mold using the exact net shape of the takara stadium. They use a capital intensive, but highly efficient (cheap, fast) process called vacuum forming where a sheet of stadium plastic material is warmed, then sucked onto a metal mold, cut, brief cooling, and it's done.

however, since I am using a liquid silicone to make the mold, it is subject to thermal expansion, warping, etc... that makes it unsuitable for achieving such a thin product (most stadiums are less than 1mm thick). It's easy to fix - I simply need to 'fill in' some of the empty spaces (like those in the vertical walls of the BB-10) using modeling clay or some other adhesive solid-drying filler.

When I build the MOLD around that, it leaves me with a larger hole to fill. I fill that mold with the casting resin and the result is a very strong, albeit somewhat pricey, beystadium. the key is to ONLY add material on the underside of the stadium, thereby leaving the top of the stadium (where the beys spin) 100% identical.

to answer your question, I have no doubt at this point that they will come out how I want them. I'm less certain, however, about how to overmold a solid item (photo, jewel, beyblade part) into the stadium floor. The trick is getting it to float in the casting resin. if it sinks all the way to the bottom then it actually stick up from the suface of the stadium. More likely I'll just mold an image impression into the bottom side of the stadium floor and then fill it in with colored wax or paint. Even in that case, I think it will look much better than a sticker does!

Also, i'm glad to hear your comments about the tornado attack. I can't wait to get my hands on it
(Feb. 01, 2013  8:49 PM)stevebey Wrote: [ -> ]I tried it once, learned from it, and am ready to do it again.

Are you planning to try it again with the TAKARA-TOMY stadiums right away? Using the infinitely less scarce Hasbro stadiums as test subjects in order to perfect the process might be a better idea, don't you think?
Oh, the stadium itself comes out perfectly intact (other than the filler material I suppose; and even the filler should be removable).

You're right though, of course, that its best to try on an easy to find stadium. The issue there is that the silicone mold material costs about $185 and its only enough to do one mold. Then you have to buy two gallons of the casting epoxy which is another $160. That gets you enough to make (estimating) 4~7 stadiums. To make a trial run w/ a Hasbro beyblade adds another $185 to the process plus the additional casting resin lost. I'll have to think about it though. I have 3 x BB-10's so I'm semi-ok if one of them takes some damage.

Hopefully the heat generated by the silicone mold hardening wouldn't deform the stadium. If it does, then the whole idea is 100% moot (you'll never get a faithful reproduction).
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Ultra - You rock. Thanks so much! I've set a maximum bid beyond the reach of most reasonable people so it should be locked up.
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I also need a round-handle customize grip. The grip in the metal challenge set (Sonokong) is NOT able to accept any attachments.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Beyblade-HMS-...500wt_1288

I know the price is steep but it's insanely rare and they practically never some around.
Yes - I'm keeping an eye on that one. I have an averazer and a TB type s, but would love the black dranzer. my mind tells me that the set (due to its' rarity) is a gestalt. I'm not sure you'd get that much for all of those pieces sold separately... Maybe, I'm certainly no expert but it is the set and that's probably a fair price (especially BNIB). Do you think that's a fair price? How high would you think that might bid to?
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Last bump? Lets hope so
I like the threads with the pumps and a BUMP
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I have a completely mint Blue Dranzer MF, I see you said you wanted it NIB, but if interested feel free to shoot me a PM.
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Bum bum bedum bum bum be dum BUMP
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