World Beyblade Organization by Fighting Spirits Inc.

Is TT's Bull and Aquario As Heavy as Hasbros Bull and Aquario? And Can The Aquario Wheel Be Used as An Competitive Attack Metal Wheel.

No to the first question, and to the second one, it wouldn't be too bad, although I've heard wheels like Byxis and other relatively smaller clear wheels are better since they expose more of the metal wheel.

(Jun. 19, 2011  11:29 AM)momiji manju Wrote: [ -> ]No to the first question, and to the second one, it wouldn't be too bad, although I've heard wheels like Byxis and other relatively smaller clear wheels are better since they expose more of the metal wheel.

What I Mean Is Can The Pre HWS Aquario Wheel Be Used as A Competitive Attack Metal Wheel,Cause I Use 2 Pre HWS Attack Combos That Are MF Aquario 145 RF and MF Pegasis 145 R2F I Wanted to Know if It Can Be A Competitive Attack Wheel.

Aquario is heavily outclassed and IMO one of the worst attack wheels out .

(Jun. 19, 2011  11:34 AM)Hell Wolf Wrote: [ -> ]What I Mean Is Can The Pre HWS Aquario Wheel Be Used as A Competitive Attack Metal Wheel,Cause I Use 2 Pre HWS Attack Combos That Are MF Aquario 145 RF and MF Pegasis 145 R2F I Wanted to Know if It Can Be A Competitive Attack Wheel.

yes, you can use any pre-hws wheels for official WBO tournaments. Whether they are competitive enough to win you battles is a different issue.

(Jun. 19, 2011  11:29 AM)momiji manju Wrote: [ -> ]No to the first question, and to the second one, it wouldn't be too bad, although I've heard wheels like Byxis and other relatively smaller clear wheels are better since they expose more of the metal wheel.

Incorrect (and a common misconception), other than one set of erratic weights (of only Hasbro parts), all weighings have been pretty much identical. It's a misconception that different brands have different weights. Only Aikemi's weights, which are consistently the heaviest for whatever part he's weighed (which are always hasbro), have such heavy hasbro parts. However, as they were some of the earliest weights for hasbro parts, they've become ingrained in the community's consciousness, despite their obviously errant nature.
Must credit Arupaeo for pointing this out to me. He's a very smart guy.

So, Hell Wolf, they are the same, and for both manufacturers, Bull is usually slightly heavier (roughly 0.01g, about the weight of a grain of sand). Kerbecs needs more weights, it seems there are variances (not sure, maybe a mold difference to do with a hole on it's underside, I suspect...)

How heavy is kerbecs?
you guys keep on saying that Kerbecs is heavier but you never tell how heavy is it,
and I really doubt is there any BIG difference between them.(Of course,expect Esclopio.)

to Think:
Ok,I'll just shut up and stop talking about parts.

Did you read my post right? We're not sure. Currently, common knowledge says exactly the same as bull (3.3g), but a few measurements from otherwise reliable weighers have turned up examples like 3.59g (~ .3g heaver than bull).
That's why I feel that everyone with Kerbecs and a CW of known weight (Bull, eg), and a good set of scales (correct to .01g minimum), should be posting weights in the Weights of MFB thread. Prefferably including whether or not theirs has a hole in the underside.

And, Escolpio is light, but IIRC, gemios is lighter

And thanks, it's just that you tend to post without checking that what you're saying is "incorrect" isn't something that's supported by testing. That and you seem to have strange experience with parts. Have you figured out what's up with your TH170? (May want to PM your response to that to me. I suspect something's up with yours).

Ok, I'll PM ya.

This may seem to be a stupid question but I don't really watch MFB anime or manga, so I don't know how many maximum beyblade there are, I only know about 4 of them ( kerbec, bixys, screw and basalt) are there anymore of them?

Thx you in advance

(Jun. 19, 2011  2:45 PM)kopo007 Wrote: [ -> ]This may seem to be a stupid question but I don't really watch MFB anime or manga, so I don't know how many maximum beyblade there are, I only know about 4 of them ( kerbec, bixys, screw and basalt) are there anymore of them?

Thx you in advance

killer beafowl....

(Jun. 19, 2011  12:31 PM)th!nk Wrote: [ -> ]

(Jun. 19, 2011  11:29 AM)momiji manju Wrote: [ -> ]No to the first question, and to the second one, it wouldn't be too bad, although I've heard wheels like Byxis and other relatively smaller clear wheels are better since they expose more of the metal wheel.

Incorrect (and a common misconception), other than one set of erratic weights (of only Hasbro parts), all weighings have been pretty much identical. It's a misconception that different brands have different weights. Only Aikemi's weights, which are consistently the heaviest for whatever part he's weighed (which are always hasbro), have such heavy hasbro parts. However, as they were some of the earliest weights for hasbro parts, they've become ingrained in the community's consciousness, despite their obviously errant nature.
Must credit Arupaeo for pointing this out to me. He's a very smart guy.

So, Hell Wolf, they are the same, and for both manufacturers, Bull is usually slightly heavier (roughly 0.01g, about the weight of a grain of sand). Kerbecs needs more weights, it seems there are variances (not sure, maybe a mold difference to do with a hole on it's underside, I suspect...)

Hah wow, I had no idea.

He was speaking about metal wheels though.

Hasbro don't make a Bull or Aquario metal wheel I think that must have been CW's.

I didn't know until a week ago, when Arupaeo mentioned it in my CW thread. My mind was blown.
Most people don't know as yet, so I'm trying to point it out where I can, because it's pretty important.

I only answered Hell Wolf's question, which is the question I was referring to in terms of what the user was asking.

Are there multiple sources showing this? Or is it just arupaeo?

Also, is this consistent for all parts? Or just clear wheels.

should I clean out mah stadium with water and soap, or use wet wipes, or neither? It is very dirty and makes my attack types suck monkey butt.

(Jun. 19, 2011  3:28 PM)stormldrago1221 Wrote: [ -> ]should I clean out mah stadium with water and soap, or use wet wipes, or neither? It is very dirty and makes my attack types suck monkey butt.

Maybe its you, not launching the Attack types correctly, or, your are using a bad Stadium. Such as Thunder Whip etc. (Aka Hasbro stadiums). I once cleaned my stadium, and after drying, i touched it and i felt some electricity with it. Weird o.o . I guess water would be fine.

(Jun. 19, 2011  3:20 PM)momiji manju Wrote: [ -> ]I only answered Hell Wolf's question, which is the question I was referring to in terms of what the user was asking.

Are there multiple sources showing this? Or is it just arupaeo?

Also, is this consistent for all parts? Or just clear wheels.

You can look at the weights of MFB document and confirm it for yourself, from everyone's weights. You've got a decent enough understanding of stats to see that Aikemi's weights are outliers, I think.
It's just connecting the fact that his weights are always heavier than others, and that he only measured hasbro parts, that is the hard part.
I went in not believing Arupaeo, and it changed my mind, FWIW.

Arupaeo is intent on doing a proper statistical analysis. I do believe he calculated averages, even with Aikemi's weights, that showed there's no really significant difference between them on average anyway (might find it in my CW thread?)

It looks to be consistent for every part, as far as I'm aware. At least, the plastic parts are identical.

The only place there'd be major differences is in different molds of Metal Wheels, if manufacturers use them. However, with identical molds, there's no major difference in weight, as can be seen by looking at the "Weights of MFB" document (and again, dismissing Aikemi's weights).
However, we do lack enough TT weights there, so it's hard to truly tell. I'd really like more data to be sure for MW's. Also, molds don't always seem to be noted, as far as I can tell, plus, we're not always aware of them.
Hasbro sometimes includes hard-to-spot reinforcements. So in that respect, it can be hard to tell, but I don't think the metal used is significantly different weight wise. Mold differences, though, would make a difference.

Long way of saying "I don't know, I'm afraid" to be honest


: Soap and water is the standard, but wet wipes should be fine. The "Gunk" can be hard to get off, so prepare to do some work/scrubbing.

(Jun. 19, 2011  3:53 PM)Azlanslayer Wrote: [ -> ]

(Jun. 19, 2011  3:28 PM)stormldrago1221 Wrote: [ -> ]should I clean out mah stadium with water and soap, or use wet wipes, or neither? It is very dirty and makes my attack types suck monkey butt.

Maybe its you, not launching the Attack types correctly, or, your are using a bad Stadium. Such as Thunder Whip etc. (Aka Hasbro stadiums). I once cleaned my stadium, and after drying, i touched it and i felt some electricity with it. Weird o.o . I guess water would be fine.

Im using ptw

Attack types suck monkey butt in PTW, you could fill it up with dirt and they wouldn't suck much less. Heck, the dirt would ruin stamina types, making it fairer
Still, soap and water is the standard. Doesn't clean mine fully, but oh well.

BTW, Azlanslayer, that "electricity" would be static electricity. I have a fair amount of broken off soft, light plastic-y grip material on my carpet (due to my dog and a ramp I built her for my bed). It tends to fly up to my stadiums base if I rub the surface, hah.

(Jun. 19, 2011  3:28 PM)stormldrago1221 Wrote: [ -> ]should I clean out mah stadium with water and soap, or use wet wipes, or neither? It is very dirty and makes my attack types suck monkey butt.

Well, you may make use of the some F tip combos. You may also like to check out the Hasbro stadiums combo testing thread, to know which attack beys to use...

EDIT: About the weights thingy, aren't L Drago I, II, III heavy CWs? I weighed my L Drago I at a mall, and got the weight around 3.68 or something....

Well they're the heaviest clear wheels, but they can't be used in defense combos, for obvious reasons.

(Jun. 19, 2011  5:17 PM)Janstarblast Wrote: [ -> ]About the weights thingy, aren't L Drago I, II, III heavy CWs? I weighed my L Drago I at a mall, and got the weight around 3.68 or something....

That's one expensive pick and mix stand!

(Jun. 19, 2011  5:29 PM)Dracomageat Wrote: [ -> ]

(Jun. 19, 2011  5:17 PM)Janstarblast Wrote: [ -> ]About the weights thingy, aren't L Drago I, II, III heavy CWs? I weighed my L Drago I at a mall, and got the weight around 3.68 or something....

That's one expensive pick and mix stand!

-Really? Thanks NightWolf!

What do you mean to say Draco? I just weighed it, using the vegetables weighing scale kept in the vegetables section... What is so expensive here?

What us Killer Beafowls Part in the Maximum Series

Screw is Upper
Basalt is Weight
230 is Height
Hell BD145 is Diameter
Killer Beafowl is Non Competitiveness
Where the heck does Beafowl fit in this the most changable Spin Track the Least Losing Balance almost Sharp tip?

(Jun. 19, 2011  5:33 PM)Janstarblast Wrote: [ -> ]What do you mean to say Draco? I just weighed it, using the vegetables weighing scale kept in the vegetables section... What is so expensive here?

Oh. I thought you stuck it on a pick and mix scale and it came up costing £3.68 (not cheap)...

: solo stamina